When I try and start my engine ('86 2.8), most of the time I have to crank it for 5-15 seconds before it will start. The only time this doesn't happen is if the outside temperature is maybe below 40°F and the car has been sitting all night. Someone a while ago suggested that my fuel injectors may be leaking when the car is off and flooding the engine. So I use the "clear flood" mode by flooring the gas pedal when I'm starting it and this helps to some degree. I tested the fuel pressure to see how long it holds after the fuel pump pressurizes the system, but I don't know how long it should hold for. I'd like to know before I go ahead and start taking the intake off. If anyone can give me a time that the pressure should hold or has any other suggestions as to why my car has to crank for so long, I would appreciate it.
PS The fuel pump does pressurize the system properly.

 

ive got the same problem. how long has it been since you last replaced the fuel filter? im going to do that just as soon as i get a chance to get under the car(im at college right now). i read something on here about the starter relay or solenoid getting too hot and that being the problem. you have to reroute it to the firewall or somewhere away from the exhaust. i dont know if this applies to our engine or not. i havent done much checking cause i dont have any time or resources to do anything about it. anyone w/ advise, let me know too, im kinda confused here too.

 

Well, I haven't replaced the fuel filter ever, and I've had the car for 4 1/2 years. But I am planning on doing that. However, I don't think that's what's causing the problem.

 

check ignition. Do you have spark. Might be a bad coil. Trust me on this, had it happen. I would crank the car for a while, then POOF! a big cloud of grey smoke, then the car ran like crap. Take a plug out, put the boot back on it and hold it to a good ground on the motor, does it spark?

Also, could be your Fuel Pump Relay. It doesn't kick on, so you have to crank it to build up oil pressure, and as soon as the pressure is high enough it kicks the pump on and your car wll start. Do you hear the buzzing noise when you turn the key to the on position? If not, I bet this is the problem.

 

Hey 2_point8_boy, thanks for the ideas, but I'm pretty sure that this is not the problem. I've had this problem ever since I bought my car 4 1/2 years ago. I've done tune-ups and other work on the ignition, so I'm pretty sure there's nothing wrong with the ignition. Also, the fuel pump relay works fine, I've no doubt about that. I'm still pretty sure its the injectors. I just want to know if anyone had the same problem with their injectors.

 

Welcome to the boards,
Maybe your coil or iginitoin module is getting too hot and doesnt want to operate as quickly as its suppose to. Seeing how you say its fine after sitting overnight.

 

CJ, how long -did- the fuel system hold pressure for?

You told 2pt_8boy that your relay works; so you -are- hearing the buzz from the pump when you first flip the key from "off" to "on"?

And finally, how do you start the car? Do you go from "off" right to "crank"? That's what I like to call "jumping the key". By jumping the key, you don't allow the fuel system to build up pressure. If you are jumping the key, next time, try this: Turn the key from "off" to "on/check lights" position- where all the dash lights come on, and you can play with your windows and the radio. Listen for the fuel pump to stop buzzing (about 2-3 seconds). Then, flip the key the rest of the way to "crank". It should start right up.

I have a nasty habit of jumping the key when a hot chick walks near my car. Of course, instead of her being awed by my amazing car and handsome good looks, she probably laughs as my car cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and doesn't start.

 

i "jump the key," as you cal it Tom, all the time. My car starts right up everytime. I don't even think the engine makes a full rotation before it starts. I think it just gets to the next cylinder to fire and BAM, it starts. i thought about building up the pressure before starting, but never got into the habit, so if it works now, screw it I say. If it ain't broke, be lazy.

 

TomP, after pressurizing, the pressure dropped I think from about 43 psi or whatever it is supposed to be to maybe 35 psi in 20 minutes. This might be normal, I'm not sure. But I really have a feeling that fuel is leaking past the injectors and flooding the engine while it's off.

In answer to your question about "jumping the key", it basically makes no difference whether I let the system pressurize first or not. However, on very cold days, like 30°F say, the car will fire up the instant I hit the start position, even when I'm jumping the key. Sometimes it fires up so fast that I get a little grind before I get a chance to let the key go.

 

make sure that your cold start valve is hooked up correctly.

 

Thanks mw66nova, I'll look into that. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to work on my car since August, and it will be another month before I get a chance.

 

what exactly is a cold start valve? are you talking about the cold start injector? cuz I looked it up and cant seem to find any "cold start valve" listed for my '87 2.8? I have the same prob. with long crank times before startup, and it seems to be intermittent. I was thinking either my coil's not putting out enough juice, or my fuel pump isn't building pressure fast enough. But im not sure and havent investigated either idea yet. Just kinda accepted that it cranks for a while i guess. I have a brand new bat. and alt. so i was thinking a new coil would be a good investment for my electrical system anyway, and it cant hurt the problem. Any suggestions on a good coil and ign. module that will get me a little stronger spark?

 

i have also had the same problem with my 89 2.8L, but i replaced the original coil with an MSD coil, and seemed to fix the problem for a while, then winter came, and if it gets say 10-20 degrees outside the car will turn over for about 10secs before it starts. as far as MAF sensors go, it might not be the wires or anything, i was reading some where on the net about recalls, and the main recalls for call 82-92 camaro was about 25percent of all 82-92 camaro made has bad ECM's which would cause rough idle, random check engine light to come one and go off while driving down the road, and even give off false MAF sensor problems, but my 2.8 run better witout the MAF than with it, cause if you unplug the MAF and then start the car, then take it up the road, it will do a complete 360 shifting from 1st to 2nd gear with the T5 trans...with the MAF put it to the floor and takes a while to pick up..but at about 2700rpm it will throw you back in the seat and again at 3500rpm and it has 188,200miles as of 12-23-2007.. oh well hope it helps, if you have questions ill try and answer i have had a bunch of problems with the 2.8 but nothing serious.

 

If your csi wont push fuel through it because of mechanical or electrical failure it can cause the long cranking times. Also, is the engine in good mechanical condition? if all cylinders have kind of low compression it can cause similar conditions and still run smooth, just takes a while to start

 

Well it sounds like it could be a couple of things, however I'd reccomend you check the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum hose off of it and just turn the key to on, see if there's any sign of fuel coming out of that port. If there is you need a new one. It sounds like your fuel pump is fine. Does it run rough at all? If so you may have a bad/plugged injector, they used to have problems with injectors all the time.