everbody post your fav. cheap mods here
#1
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: auto
everbody post your fav. cheap mods here
Everybody post your favorite power adding mods for under $50 here. And not under $50 cause your uncle know this guy who knows the owner of a junkyard or something. Guess I'll start. I just made an air intake system, my first real mod. An 8" cone K&N online for $36 and free shipping, $8 for three pieces of adjustable aluminum pipe, and $4 for rubber seals. So $48 for an intake system suckin up alot of cold air from the bottom of the engine block.
So what are yalls cheap power addin mods? Like alot of you, I'm a poor college student and won't have a job till the summer, so I'm kinda limited in what I can get right now. Well, let's hear your cheap mods..
So what are yalls cheap power addin mods? Like alot of you, I'm a poor college student and won't have a job till the summer, so I'm kinda limited in what I can get right now. Well, let's hear your cheap mods..
#2
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
1. A two-stage major tuneup. Buying quality parts and doing all the work yourself will wind up for a total cost of about $100, which could be done in two weekends if you only have $50/week. I still don't understand why any f-body owner neglects this.
2. Aftermarket spark coil, for more power at higher rpm's- at least for the 2.8's, with the higher powerband. You could even wire up a $20 Blaster II instead of buying a $50 plug-in coil.
3. Hog out the exhaust donuts, between the y-pipe and manifolds. Cost is $0. Felt an improvement even though I didn't think I would.
4. Set of polyurethene end-links, one set per sway bar, $14/set at summitracing.com. Part #s, ENS-9-8117R for red bushings, ENS-9-8117G for black. Firms up cornering like you wouldn't believe.
2. Aftermarket spark coil, for more power at higher rpm's- at least for the 2.8's, with the higher powerband. You could even wire up a $20 Blaster II instead of buying a $50 plug-in coil.
3. Hog out the exhaust donuts, between the y-pipe and manifolds. Cost is $0. Felt an improvement even though I didn't think I would.
4. Set of polyurethene end-links, one set per sway bar, $14/set at summitracing.com. Part #s, ENS-9-8117R for red bushings, ENS-9-8117G for black. Firms up cornering like you wouldn't believe.
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
I guess my fav mod was porting and polishing my plenum and making a custom emblem to replace the 2.8 multi one. In all i'd say it costed me 40.00 to do all what I needed, polishing supplies, electricity, and luckly the emblem part was free since I did it at college
#4
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: auto
3. Hog out the exhaust donuts, between the y-pipe and manifolds. Cost is $0. Felt an improvement even though I didn't think I would.
I've never worked with exhaust before...how do you actually do this?
4. Set of polyurethene end-links, one set per sway bar, $14/set at summitracing.com. Part #s, ENS-9-8117R for red bushings, ENS-9-8117G for black. Firms up cornering like you wouldn't believe.
#7
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 357ci Stealth Ram - Under Pressure
Transmission: Built 700r4/Pro Yank 3400 Extreme
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.27
power adding mods
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#8
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Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
those could be Type R seat covers, steering wheel cover, pedals. that would be a power mod :sillylol:
but seriously, all the pcv tube & bends, rubber couplers & the filter probably cost about $50.
Free: check tire pressure
Check belt(s)
and please don't have TomP explai again that donut gasket story. It was bad enough just trying to visualize what he wrote w/o having any of it in front of you to look at. Mkes more sense when you have the donuts "gaskets" & t-pipe in front of you.
but seriously, all the pcv tube & bends, rubber couplers & the filter probably cost about $50.
Free: check tire pressure
Check belt(s)
and please don't have TomP explai again that donut gasket story. It was bad enough just trying to visualize what he wrote w/o having any of it in front of you to look at. Mkes more sense when you have the donuts "gaskets" & t-pipe in front of you.
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porting and polishing 081 heads $25 for the supplies
headman headers 100.00
dynomax cat back 160.00
removing all smog stuff
Holley carb from e-bay $46.00
Holley street dominator intake 150.00
doing the work myself priceless......well with the help of some of my friends on Third gen.org
headman headers 100.00
dynomax cat back 160.00
removing all smog stuff
Holley carb from e-bay $46.00
Holley street dominator intake 150.00
doing the work myself priceless......well with the help of some of my friends on Third gen.org
#10
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Car: 1991 CAMARO 1968 FIREBIRD
Engine: CAMARO 3.1L FIREBIRD 455
Transmission: CAMARO 700R4 FIREBIRD TH-400
underdrive pullys 50 bucks belt 10 bucks nice mod
CAI 40 bucks
CAI 40 bucks
#11
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
$50 buck worth of aviation fuel add a good deed of HP. Fullerton airport here in So. Cal shuts down manned attendants after 10pm but you can pull up to the pumps and access them after hours with a creditcard "Ancient Chinese Secret" around these parts. Not the most legal thing to do here in Calif., elsewhere I'm sure its legal.
#12
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pulleys... about 50 buck, the belt was free.
160 t-stat would be a nice one i think... dun have it yet tho
i'm getting 19lb fuel injectors for about 20 bucks
fiero valve covers for cheaper
corvette fuel pump... might be about 50 bucks
160 t-stat would be a nice one i think... dun have it yet tho
i'm getting 19lb fuel injectors for about 20 bucks
fiero valve covers for cheaper
corvette fuel pump... might be about 50 bucks
#13
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Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
I can relate to you on the poor college student part.
Obviously making your own CAI with a K&N Filter is one of the best.
Tuneup
That is all I can think of that is under $50 that really makes a difference.
I crave some bolt-ins now, like cam, and roller rockers. Time to open my wallet up a bit more.
Obviously making your own CAI with a K&N Filter is one of the best.
Tuneup
That is all I can think of that is under $50 that really makes a difference.
I crave some bolt-ins now, like cam, and roller rockers. Time to open my wallet up a bit more.
#14
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by CamaroRS385hp
85sport....did you polish it by hand or did you have to buy some power tool
85sport....did you polish it by hand or did you have to buy some power tool
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FROM THE KING OF UGLY!
Adding a used 3.4 AC Delco Cat convertor FREE!
Adding my better airflow intake set up to the Firebird About $8, including used K & N Filter
Rebuilding your distributor - FREE
Adding Accel coil $36 + 8.25% sales tax
Vacuum hose routing fix - $1-3 for the windshield wiper hose used for patch job
Used Arvin Z-28 2 1/2" muffler at the half price sale of Pick Your part $37 + core charge (not counting installation of $35!)
Used Tires, $15 for one, $40 for the current back pair, $20 for the next back tire replacements, $35 for one front (expect to sell the Chevy 15 X 7 ralley wheel for $30, tho!)
Fixed overheating by-
Used radiator for $30
Fixed air dam for free - used home roof rain gutter for temp air scoop/dam - works great! - until I install the new/used front nose piece I have!
NEW Accel spark plug 8.8 wires for price of mailing into Accel for warranty replacement about $5
I'm pretty much outta ideas, unless ya wanna add in the brake disc pad replacment for free (Lifetime warranty by Raybestos!)
Of my ideas, the best is rebuilding your own distributor for free - oh add in the $1.50 for using the Chevy Small Block Distributor gasket.
FORGOT my distributor hold down stud set up, that cost big $1.75 for the bolt whose head I chopped off, so it was easier to reinstall my distributor hold down bracket.
FORGOT SOME MORE
Timing chain - $30!
Tensioner - $10
Water pump - $19
Balancer snout reapair sleeve - $4
Timing chain Gasket kit - $25
NEW EGR OF $33
NEW radiator hoses of $15 each
Front fenders of $20 each (Pick Your Part 1/2 price day sale!)
Rear Bumper cap - $35 (same sale!)
I think I'm done.
Yet, I can always add the interior I removed form a 1987 Camaro that goes into my 1985 Firebird - Free
TRANNY MOUNT, too - $10
Adding a used 3.4 AC Delco Cat convertor FREE!
Adding my better airflow intake set up to the Firebird About $8, including used K & N Filter
Rebuilding your distributor - FREE
Adding Accel coil $36 + 8.25% sales tax
Vacuum hose routing fix - $1-3 for the windshield wiper hose used for patch job
Used Arvin Z-28 2 1/2" muffler at the half price sale of Pick Your part $37 + core charge (not counting installation of $35!)
Used Tires, $15 for one, $40 for the current back pair, $20 for the next back tire replacements, $35 for one front (expect to sell the Chevy 15 X 7 ralley wheel for $30, tho!)
Fixed overheating by-
Used radiator for $30
Fixed air dam for free - used home roof rain gutter for temp air scoop/dam - works great! - until I install the new/used front nose piece I have!
NEW Accel spark plug 8.8 wires for price of mailing into Accel for warranty replacement about $5
I'm pretty much outta ideas, unless ya wanna add in the brake disc pad replacment for free (Lifetime warranty by Raybestos!)
Of my ideas, the best is rebuilding your own distributor for free - oh add in the $1.50 for using the Chevy Small Block Distributor gasket.
FORGOT my distributor hold down stud set up, that cost big $1.75 for the bolt whose head I chopped off, so it was easier to reinstall my distributor hold down bracket.
FORGOT SOME MORE
Timing chain - $30!
Tensioner - $10
Water pump - $19
Balancer snout reapair sleeve - $4
Timing chain Gasket kit - $25
NEW EGR OF $33
NEW radiator hoses of $15 each
Front fenders of $20 each (Pick Your Part 1/2 price day sale!)
Rear Bumper cap - $35 (same sale!)
I think I'm done.
Yet, I can always add the interior I removed form a 1987 Camaro that goes into my 1985 Firebird - Free
TRANNY MOUNT, too - $10
#18
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
and please don't have TomP explai again that donut gasket story. It was bad enough just trying to visualize what he wrote w/o having any of it in front of you to look at. Mkes more sense when you have the donuts "gaskets" & t-pipe in front of you.
and please don't have TomP explai again that donut gasket story. It was bad enough just trying to visualize what he wrote w/o having any of it in front of you to look at. Mkes more sense when you have the donuts "gaskets" & t-pipe in front of you.
#19
A good set of aftermarket high-perf. brake pads would be less than $50, for most brands. Better braking performance and better safety to boot!
Although not a true 'performance' bolt on, replace your tranny mount with a polyurethane one. It should be about $35 or somewhere in that price range.
Bigger sway bar from the junk yard pirated out of a Trans Am, Formula, Z28 or Iroc, along with poly end links and bushings. Should be 50-60 dollars for that mod, depending on what you pay for the sway bar to begin with.
Wonderbar from an Iroc, if you can find one. I don't know what they sell for, and this is a mod I would like to do sometime, if I can find the parts.
Advance your timing to 12 degrees BTDC. Free mod that should add a little bit of kick. If you back it up much, you will probably have to run high octane gas.
Although again not a true 'performance' mod, get a set of Fiero valve covers with the hold down bolts, paint them and put them on. I recently bought a set for 20 dollars. Get some gaskets, some paint, and you should come out for about 30-35 dollars total.
Take everything unnecessary out of the car that adds weight. Although I have not done anything to this end, it would be free, and would definitely help in handling, braking, and acceleration.
That's about all I can think of for the amount of money that has been set as the standard.
Although not a true 'performance' bolt on, replace your tranny mount with a polyurethane one. It should be about $35 or somewhere in that price range.
Bigger sway bar from the junk yard pirated out of a Trans Am, Formula, Z28 or Iroc, along with poly end links and bushings. Should be 50-60 dollars for that mod, depending on what you pay for the sway bar to begin with.
Wonderbar from an Iroc, if you can find one. I don't know what they sell for, and this is a mod I would like to do sometime, if I can find the parts.
Advance your timing to 12 degrees BTDC. Free mod that should add a little bit of kick. If you back it up much, you will probably have to run high octane gas.
Although again not a true 'performance' mod, get a set of Fiero valve covers with the hold down bolts, paint them and put them on. I recently bought a set for 20 dollars. Get some gaskets, some paint, and you should come out for about 30-35 dollars total.
Take everything unnecessary out of the car that adds weight. Although I have not done anything to this end, it would be free, and would definitely help in handling, braking, and acceleration.
That's about all I can think of for the amount of money that has been set as the standard.
Last edited by pontiacguy1; 03-31-2003 at 04:15 PM.
#20
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Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by CamaroRS385hp
well that probably raised the $40 up a good bit, getting the tools for it.
well that probably raised the $40 up a good bit, getting the tools for it.
Best free mod in the world: Coolant line throttle body bypass
#21
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Car: 1987 Iroc-Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: auto
So you've actually felt an increas of power w/ the TB bypass? I've heard alot of people that said it felt the same.
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by wlsmoku
All home made
All home made
#24
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
AGood2.8:
Concidering I have a STOCK car, the throttle body opening is the least of my concerns. I COULD get it bored out to a 52 or 58mm, but would it REALLY be worth it....um...not with the mods I have. I would see greater gains through a set of headers or porting out the stock heads. I increased flow into the throttle body for $3.00....what do you expect? I believe this thread was asking for fav cheap mods....I think thats pretty cheap considering an aftermarket airfoil cost $35-60!!!
Concidering I have a STOCK car, the throttle body opening is the least of my concerns. I COULD get it bored out to a 52 or 58mm, but would it REALLY be worth it....um...not with the mods I have. I would see greater gains through a set of headers or porting out the stock heads. I increased flow into the throttle body for $3.00....what do you expect? I believe this thread was asking for fav cheap mods....I think thats pretty cheap considering an aftermarket airfoil cost $35-60!!!
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by wlsmoku
AGood2.8:
Concidering I have a STOCK car, the throttle body opening is the least of my concerns. I COULD get it bored out to a 52 or 58mm, but would it REALLY be worth it....um...not with the mods I have. I would see greater gains through a set of headers or porting out the stock heads. I increased flow into the throttle body for $3.00....what do you expect? I believe this thread was asking for fav cheap mods....I think thats pretty cheap considering an aftermarket airfoil cost $35-60!!!
AGood2.8:
Concidering I have a STOCK car, the throttle body opening is the least of my concerns. I COULD get it bored out to a 52 or 58mm, but would it REALLY be worth it....um...not with the mods I have. I would see greater gains through a set of headers or porting out the stock heads. I increased flow into the throttle body for $3.00....what do you expect? I believe this thread was asking for fav cheap mods....I think thats pretty cheap considering an aftermarket airfoil cost $35-60!!!
#28
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: Built 700R4
Originally posted by AGood2.8
$50 buck worth of aviation fuel add a good deed of HP. Fullerton airport here in So. Cal shuts down manned attendants after 10pm but you can pull up to the pumps and access them after hours with a creditcard "Ancient Chinese Secret" around these parts. Not the most legal thing to do here in Calif., elsewhere I'm sure its legal.
$50 buck worth of aviation fuel add a good deed of HP. Fullerton airport here in So. Cal shuts down manned attendants after 10pm but you can pull up to the pumps and access them after hours with a creditcard "Ancient Chinese Secret" around these parts. Not the most legal thing to do here in Calif., elsewhere I'm sure its legal.
#29
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Aviation fuel....what's the octane on that stuff?? Lol...completely different chemical compound(s) than regular gas I assume?
My favorite cheap mod, hands down, is CAI. Did it for maybe $80...that price includes a LOT of spare parts. I went through three different CAI assemblies, mind you. Now on the Stang, I got the system down...$40 even for EVERYTHING to install in-fender CAI. Boo-yeah. Gotta love it.
My favorite cheap mod, hands down, is CAI. Did it for maybe $80...that price includes a LOT of spare parts. I went through three different CAI assemblies, mind you. Now on the Stang, I got the system down...$40 even for EVERYTHING to install in-fender CAI. Boo-yeah. Gotta love it.
#30
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by fast89RS
Ancient Chinese Secret, huh? That does sound like something an import driver would do to boost horsepower.
Ancient Chinese Secret, huh? That does sound like something an import driver would do to boost horsepower.
Last edited by AGood2.8; 05-06-2003 at 09:15 PM.
#31
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: Built 700R4
Suggesting that as a cheap performance mod is not right. It can be detrimental to the performance of a car if not used for the appropriate application. Please excuse my sarcasm, but I thought it was a ridiculous suggestion. Like you said, the car you use for racing (which hopefully has a very high compression) can benefit greatly from it. A street car will not see any performance benefits. Also, that fuel isn't exactly cheap. Get it?
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by fast89RS
Get it?
Get it?
#33
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Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Originally posted by Nixon1
Aviation fuel....what's the octane on that stuff?? Lol...completely different chemical compound(s) than regular gas I assume?
Aviation fuel....what's the octane on that stuff?? Lol...completely different chemical compound(s) than regular gas I assume?
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Avgas 100LL is the same exact gas that Union76 gas stations use to pump years ago known as Leaded Super 100 Octane. The lead ( Tetra-Ethyl) makes the motor run more efficiant and powerful. You can not run this too often unless you remove your catalytic convertor- It'll burn it up fast and you'll be buying a new one before your next smog check. I use to buy pure Tetra-Ethyl additive by the gallon out of Arizona when Calif first banned it years back. Its hard to come by now.
Hey Fast89Rs, Now do YOU get it? Might I suggest you stay in college a little longer, your still wet behind the ears. Its not always about compression, timing, and octane.
Hey Fast89Rs, Now do YOU get it? Might I suggest you stay in college a little longer, your still wet behind the ears. Its not always about compression, timing, and octane.
Last edited by AGood2.8; 05-06-2003 at 10:13 PM.
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Okay, so is Jet fuel 100 octane? I am still not sure if you answered my question or not. I am just uncertain if all aviational fuel is 100 octane. I know if you pour in raw jet fuel into your engine you will melt your pistons, so I am assuming that aviation fuel must have something different about it.
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by Joe_L
Okay, so is Jet fuel 100 octane? I am still not sure if you answered my question or not. I am just uncertain if all aviational fuel is 100 octane. I know if you pour in raw jet fuel into your engine you will melt your pistons, so I am assuming that aviation fuel must have something different about it.
Okay, so is Jet fuel 100 octane? I am still not sure if you answered my question or not. I am just uncertain if all aviational fuel is 100 octane. I know if you pour in raw jet fuel into your engine you will melt your pistons, so I am assuming that aviation fuel must have something different about it.
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See I know not to use jet fuel. I was just trying to find out if it was lower octane. Everyone is always like "I would love to know the octane level on that." But I thought it was infact lower, and like you said kerosene based.
Thanks again Agood2.8
Thanks again Agood2.8
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
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Originally posted by AGood2.8
No I don't , Why don't you explain it to me further since you are so old and wise.
No I don't , Why don't you explain it to me further since you are so old and wise.
I also found a website for you to look at:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/fuel_..._vs_power.html
I especially like this quote: "Does using a fuel with higher octane numbers automatically make more power?
Not unless they are preventing "knock"."
Now, do you get it?
#39
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
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Originally posted by fast89RS
It doesn't take an "old" person to know this. You clearly don't know what you're talking about. If you use an octane higher than you need to prevent knock, it will not help the performance of your engine and will possibly make less power because the fuel burns SLOWER!!!!
I also found a website for you to look at:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/fuel_..._vs_power.html
I especially like this quote: "Does using a fuel with higher octane numbers automatically make more power?
Not unless they are preventing "knock"."
Now, do you get it?
It doesn't take an "old" person to know this. You clearly don't know what you're talking about. If you use an octane higher than you need to prevent knock, it will not help the performance of your engine and will possibly make less power because the fuel burns SLOWER!!!!
I also found a website for you to look at:
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/fuel_..._vs_power.html
I especially like this quote: "Does using a fuel with higher octane numbers automatically make more power?
Not unless they are preventing "knock"."
Now, do you get it?
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Now I got a question as to why this stuff works better......let's say even if it is higher octane, what would allow it to produce more power...a more complete powerful burn when it did combust? Or does it carry more oxygen with it?
#41
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Location: Ames, IA
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Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: Vortec 350
Transmission: Built 700R4
Originally posted by AGood2.8
Your right, just keep your car stock and keep running your crappy gas. I'm not going to waste my time with you anymore.
Your right, just keep your car stock and keep running your crappy gas. I'm not going to waste my time with you anymore.
I just saw a reply you made about tetra-ethyl. Let's just clarify that adding this compound (which is not a fuel) only increases the octane rating. It does not make the fuel any more explosive or powerful. It is simply used as an anti-knock agent.
#42
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Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I see a lot of people posting stuff about custom air intakes. I was taking a real close look at the intake on my car the other day, and man, for the size of the filters and the intake tube, the baffles before the filter are weak. I'm thinking of doing a sort of ram air from the bottom front of the car to get that air blowing through the baffles. I've already ordered some K&N filters. They'll cost me about $60-$70CAD which probably comes in less than $50USD.
#43
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
AGood2.8:
I don't understand why you have to be an a$$hole to everyone? These message boards are created to learn things, and meet people...not to be a jerk, and act like you have something to prove. I am sorry I posted in a "V6" thread...you could have been polite, and siad "hey bro, descent mods, but this was specific to V6". Your kinda out of line...
I don't understand why you have to be an a$$hole to everyone? These message boards are created to learn things, and meet people...not to be a jerk, and act like you have something to prove. I am sorry I posted in a "V6" thread...you could have been polite, and siad "hey bro, descent mods, but this was specific to V6". Your kinda out of line...
#44
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Car: 1988 Chevy Camaro Hardtop
Engine: Turbocharged/Intercooled 3.1
Transmission: World Class T5 5 Speed
All I got to say, is leaded gas will eat your injector o rings. I know this from experience.
#45
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Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Doward
All I got to say, is leaded gas will eat your injector o rings. I know this from experience.
All I got to say, is leaded gas will eat your injector o rings. I know this from experience.
#46
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by wlsmoku
AGood2.8:
I don't understand why you have to be an a$$hole to everyone? These message boards are created to learn things, and meet people...not to be a jerk, and act like you have something to prove. I am sorry I posted in a "V6" thread...
AGood2.8:
I don't understand why you have to be an a$$hole to everyone? These message boards are created to learn things, and meet people...not to be a jerk, and act like you have something to prove. I am sorry I posted in a "V6" thread...
Actually i'm surprised no v8'er came into this message and said "drive your car off a cliff, it'll go faster, and it's free to do" yet.
#48
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Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
Weight reduction rocks. But, it can be taken too far.
#50
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
As far as weight reduction, don't bother removing the padding from the carpet. When I replaced my carpet with new stuff, made by ACC, sold by http://www.1aauto.com for the cheapest price, I separated the padding from the old carpet, just to see how much it weighed. Well, it weighed about 5 pounds or less! Might as well just clean out the glove compartment, or take all the CD's out of your car... it's not worth all the trouble. Yes, I left the padding on the new carpet.