88CamaroKid

Hey guyz...... I made a list of stuff I'm gonna need for my Camaro when I start Fixin it up in the spring! Let me know if there is anything else I should get just to make everything better or if I can get something cheaper somewhere else let me know!! I think I'm also going to need front and rear brake lines and some other little stuff.

One more question..... I think I might have to rebuild most of the front end of the car except for the body.... whats that consist of? My dad said it probably needs a front end rebuild.... since it was his car I think he knows!! LoL!! Let me know!!

Camaro Parts

New Radiator
$140.95 at RadiatorExpress.com
New Coolant Tank
$18 at thirdgenresource.com
Hatch Release Switch, White Letters
$10.95 and thirdgenresource.com
Dynomax Super Turbo Exhaust Stystem, Part # WLK-17493
$154.95 at summitracing.com
K&N Air and Oil Filters
Air Filter $25.65 at 4filters.com
Oil Filter $10.99 at 4filters.com
Hypertech Thermomaster Power Chip
$127 at thunderracing.com
Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat
$12.99 at thunderracing.com
PowerSlot Rotors
Front Left $109.99 at thunderracing.com
Front Right $109.99 at thunderracing.com
Hawks Performance Brake Pads
$34.99 x 2 at thunderracing.com
B&M Shift Improver Kit
$26.95 at summitracing.com

$818.39

AFreaknGoodTme

I would not recommend going to a 160* thermostat. Your ECM will run in open loop. Stay with at least a 180* unit.

Front end parts check with the sponsers above. Spohn offers a complete frontend rebuild kit.

Change your front torque arm bushing also - it sounds like you'll be driving it hard.It'll be thumping under the center console in no time.

KED85

Radiator - $30, used, wrecking yard.
Rotors, turn to resurface, repack bearings - $10.
IF ya spend anything on rotors, spent that money on new front wheel bearings, instead (maybe $20-30)
Pads, fair price.
I use Raybestos & replace for free forever (been doing that to my S-10 Blazer since 1990, gotten about 10 NEW brake pads so far!
Coolant tank is fair (what's shipping cost?)
I'll take your old back hatch switch (is it for Firebirds from mid 80's?)!!
Chip - go buy Mr Chip Chocolate Chip cookies, better investment!
Leave the tranny alone or IF IT'S IN GOOD SHAPE (when was it last rebuilt), install a Trans Go shift kit, better investment.
With the left over money saved go buy your Dad something really special.
OH, I've bought complete used 3.4 mills (cost me $800 & $900) & slipped them under my hood for more real power (of course I had already killed the original engine in bay).

Spend your saved money after your Dad's gift on the front end kits from various vendors. DON'T FORGET to plan on newer shocks eventually, too.
Springs, TEND NOT TO BE REPLACED, as the front end is rather light.
How many miles ya got on ride?

Where is the timing chain replacment cost or Distributor rebuild (with internal electronics replaced)?
You will regain MORE POWER with those two projects more than any other part on your current list....

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I agree with some of the stuff ked said.


TIMING CHAIN!!!!
Distrb rebuild was easy, and cost around 20 bux.
Major tune up (tomp)
Do wheel bearings with rotors, cheap invest ment also
When was tranny filter/fluid combo been done last??
Send injectors out to be rebuilt/tested.


Other then that, you do have a good list going, and appears you have done some research

Nixon1

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the B&M Shift Improver Kit for computer-controlled transmissions anyways?

88CamaroKid

Thanx for the replies guyz...... I'm not sure when the last time that the tranny was rebuilt, i'm not sure that it's ever been done!! My dad bought the camaro new in 88, hes takin good care of it but lately he hasnt had the patience or cash flow to keep it goin so he gave me the keys and told me i can deal with it!! LoL!

So, if my rotors are good i should just resurface them and put new bearings in? I want that front end to hold up, its in pretty bad shape. What all should I do with the engine to keep it goin? Should I go with the timing chain replacment and Distributor rebuild (with internal electronics replaced ) instead of gettin the chip?? I think I'll go with that trans go tranny kit, i've heard good things bout it.

The camaro has 113,916 miles on the tach, but my dad says he blew the original motor and this motor has about 50,000 on it. So.... I guess its back to the notepad, gotta rethink what I'm gonna buy here! help me guyz!!

Oh ya, I've been doin lotz of research..... I love this car!!

82-T/A [Work]

Well, there are a few things that I disagree with.

Hypertech Thermomaster Power Chip
$127 at thunderracing.com
Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat
$12.99 at thunderracing.com

Both are a waste of money.

A) the Hypertech Thermomaster does almost nothing for your car. It increases the amount of fuel delivered to the engine only at WOT, and it's very little at that. That is the only difference between a stock prom, and the Hypertech ThermoMaster. And.. that additional fuel (minimal if any) will not even be needed unless you have a performance camshaft.

The 160 degree thermostat is too low. I suggest going with aq 180. That's all you really need.



Oh, and the Radiator. Does your current radiator leak? If not, why replace it?

I suggest taking it out, draining it, and then hooking it up to your garden hose (use fittings to attach it) and pressure blast the gunk and crap out of your radiator. It'll work much better.

Nixon1

Stay away from a shift kit if that tranny hasn't been rebuilt. It'll be great if it's rebuilt, but if it hasn't been, it could blow your tranny. Those Powerslot rotors...I looked into them too...they won't help except for like road courses or extended braking. If you're not planning to run the car hard, it isn't worth it. And the chip is worthless until you get everything else working right...these cars are heavily reliant on sensors and computers...so get those checked out and get her running real smooth before you look into a chip..and like KED said (Mind if I call you Karl? I'm sick of these names..lol), there are better investments out there.....

88CamaroKid

alright...... you guyz are a lot of help!!

Hypertech chip and thermostat- x them off the list
shift kit - x that off for now.... look into tranny rebuild
radiator - spray the hell outta it and make sure it isnt leakin and get the gunk outta it I'm not sure if it leaks.... but the car gets really hot really quick so i'll look into it
powerslot rotors - x em, go get some regular ones or just resurface current ones

damn...... i gotta start a new list! LoL!

Help me out with what you guyz think I should all get.... I think I can get it goin again for cheaper than what i had put up there!!:hail: :hail:

Nixon1

Do you have to adhere to emissions? If you do, take the money you had for that chip, and buy yourself a Catco high-flow converter....flows real good. I'm quite happy with mine and with the Dynomax system...makes a lot of power and a great sound.. If you don't have to stick with emissions, and don't mind being an extra polluter, run a pipe through the cat...don't ever GUT it and leave it because air hits it, expands, and has to squeeze back down..creates turbulence.

82-T/A [Work]

Might want to consider roller rockers as well, decent bang for the buck, doesn't require very much work either.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

If hes saying front end is week, look at getting some new springs, and all new tie rod ends, center link, idler arm, poly bushings n such, I did that on s10 and it was in range of 200-250. And of course, shocks/struts.

I heard same thing on slotted rotors, not good for street use.


Deff do timing chain and distrib, even after 50,000

Chip, do VERY last, if you must.

Might want to upgrade ignition.

Do search on TOMP TUNE UP, and do every thing said!!!!!

I installed a TPI (v8) air intake on mine, works good, sounds great.

KED85

Cooling problems are SO WIDE IN AN ANSWER.
Radiator.
Correct, if it don't leak, it's OK
BUT
Remove it to be cleaned by a "pro" Why?
Crack sealant may have clogged the LOWEST tubes of the radiator.
Go to your local yard and grab a V-8 radiator, it fits perfectly in the V-6 bay.
I paid $30 for my used one & it's fine.
Air Dams and all shielding to the radiator, are they there?
Fan motor, is it good?
TIMING CAN CAUSE OVER HEATING.
BUT a 50K swapped in motor needs a new timing chain anyway so with that project ya also buy a new water pump at $20 for that cost.
After these projects completed, your cooling problems SHOULD disappear.
Tranny?
PLAN on rebuiling it soon.
Await rebuild for any tranny upgrade decision.

There are lots of "parts", common sense, to use on a 60* F Body application as long as you realize you "won't win EVERY Race"
But you'll ALWAYS go in "Class and Style" in a 3rd Gen F Body.

Really glad to help ya save some dough!

TomP

Wait a minnit- an $11 oil filter??!? Yikes! Go with the AC/Delco PF-52 filter. Not sure what's in that K&N one, but you should be changing your oil every 3000 miles anyway. They've tried to lure you in! Regular oil changes keep the engine healthy, not the magic of a special filter. What's really cool is if you can find one of the re-useable filter magnets. Anyone know a webpage for 'em? I think http://www.jcwhitney.com used to have 'em. It's like a bracelet for your oil filter, with magnets every other inch. Metal filings get sucked out of the oil and cling to the magnets. When you change the filter next, you take the ring off and put it on your next new oil filter.

I don't think I'd go after performance brake pads as much as I would go after the whole brake package, like a lot of guys covered already. Have you worked with brakes yet? I hate brake fluid... almost as much as I hate antifreeze. If the brakes were never otherwise touched, I'd suggest a full overhaul- not too costly, but man, what a pain... brake fluid... ugh. You need to flush that system out of old brake fluid. You've got the right idea on changing the front (two) and rear (one) brake hoses. While you're doing that, change the front calipers out. Supposedly they're $10 each for rebuilds at any parts store. For your rear drums, replace all the hardware back there, and get the drums turned (if they're not too thin). You might even want to get new rotors; it's usually a 50-50 opinion around here (and I'm not sure what side I'm on) on whether you should have new rotors turned or not, but I hear new rotors are also $10 each. New brake hoses usually come with crush washers- these are little copper washers that act as seals. At the ends of the brake hoses, on the brass ends, there are ridges that mash into the copper washers. You'll see what I mean when you change them. And if you want a completely bitchin' tool, get the V12 model from here: http://www.brakebleeder.com This tool saved my butt when I swapped a rear disc brake axle onto my '86; it almost made brake bleeding fun! (Except for the brake fluid bit.)

Suspension, I agree, a rebuild is a good idea. Moog is the preferred part, you can find them at places like carparts.com or summitracing.com . Other no-name parts might be okay, too. You might want to use a performance rebuild kit, like from http://www.energysuspension.com or http://www.p-s-t.com or http://www.performancesuspension.com (PSC). PSC is the most expensive but they'll sell you a package with Moog parts. PST's hard parts are made in China, and supposedly, the black "polygraphite" bushings are really re-packaged Energy Suspension bushings (polyurethane). When I heard that, I made my decision to buy my rebuild kit from ES and not PST. (Haven't bought or installed it yet.)

#1 on your list, if it's not there already: http://www.helminc.com for the GM Service Manual. This is the f-body bible, and every answer you want is in there. For a secondary manual, I recommend the http://www.hanes.com 82-92 manual, because it's a good beginner's book. It actually has photo-by-photo chapters on how to do front brake rebuilds and rear brake rebuilds. #2 on your list, since you'll be playing with suspension parts, and now it's a MUST: A click-type, micrometer-style, torque wrench, similar to this: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...3&categoryId=0 (You can find a cheaper version at Sears.) For suspension work, you should get a 1/2 inch drive version.

Here's a link to my major tuneup, print it out! https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=148806 Other members give some good info in that message, too!