Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

For those that may remember, I had an awful vibration after my T5 swap. I pulled the trans out, took it apart and saw that the main shaft was in tough shape and the first synchro spring was broken. I cleaned the whole trans in a parts washer, replaced the broken synchro spring, and put it back together.

The tranmission doesn't seem to have a harmonic vibration anymore, but it sure isn't smooth. It feels like a mack truck over 3,500 rpm. The trans also seems to whine now. Oh yeah, I still have to double-clutch my downshifts into 2nd gear, so I guess replacing that synchro spring was a waste of time.

So... what did I screw up this time to get the whine? Should I have packed the bearings with something, or is just filling the trans with ATF sufficient? My GM manual didn't say anything about packing the bearings with anything, but somebody on another board said that you're supposed to use ATF-friendly grease to pack bearings with. This is the first I've heard of it.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Did you check to see if your main shaft was bent?

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Nope. It was scored pretty badly though.

Steve89GTA

My main shaft was sratched to $hit where it goes into the pilot bearing on the motor. I disasembled it and had a tranny place reweld metal on the shaft and grind it down again...all for $90 bucks canadian ($2 DOLLARS US).lol. Anyways, I would suspect the main shaft..oh, and change that pilot bearing. I used a moroso roller bearing.

Ukraine Train

what is the procedure for replacing the pilot bearing? do i need a slide hammer or something to pull it out?

Steve89GTA

Nope, theres a little trick a mechanic friend told me. Use a socket of equal (or close) size to the diameter of your input shaft. Now, fill the entire area behind the pilot bearing with grease..fill it up really good (there isn't much room back there so you won't need much). Now, attach the socket (can't remember what size) to an extension piece and lightly tap it into the grease inside the pilot bearing. Choose a socket that small enough not to hit the pilot bearing but large enough not to allow the grease to squeeze between the socket and pilot bearing. After a few good taps, the grease behind the pilot will force it out and it will pop right out. Clean up the area well with WD or your fav lub/cleaner and pop the new one in with a socket equal to the diameter of the pilot bearing outter race (don't hit the inner part). It should go in pretty easily. Lube it with good quality grease. I used Wheel Bearing grease on the little rollers (Moroso roller pilot bearing).

That's it.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I've got a brand new pilot bearing already from when I did the initial T5 swap 10 miles ago.

Now... I've got another question. Can somebody identify whether this is a WC transmission or not? It came out of a 91, but there's no telling if it's stock or not. It came with ATF in it, and I bought a replacement input shaft bearing for a 91 and it seemed to fit just fine... but I see brass synchro rings! Can somebody tell from this pic what it is?

Steve89GTA

It's a World Class alright. The input shaft bearing in the T5 WC is different than that from a regular T5. Damn, it's been 3 years since I pulled mine. Anyway, you've got brass so yes, it's a WC.

Tom84L69

what kind of synchros do non wc t5s have? are these trannies hard to fix, is it like any other gm manual tranny (ie muncie?)

Steve89GTA

na, it's not hard to fix ..especially if you've worked with tranny's before.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

I thought the WC's had CF synchros, not brass? If memory serves me, This trans also has the freeze-plug style plugs instead of the machined style.

The reason I'm so interrested is because I've got another WC T5 with a new rebuild and a spent input shaft, and I'd like to swap the input shafts and use the other T5.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

1 more question. What's different about the WC vs. non-WC input shaft bearing? I have more input shaft play with the new bearing than I did with the old one.

The old bearing was a Timkin bearing, which I thought was only on WC units. I swear this thing is a half bastardized T5 with some WC parts and some non-WC parts.

Steve89GTA

I tried swapping input shafts from a WC to a non a few years back and found the shaft to be quite different, so I had the WC shaft repaired (welded net metal than grinded down). As far as I remember, the WC has much better lubrication along the shaft. The normal T5 input shaft will simply not work with the WC tranny.

86Chicken

As far as the input shaft play, did you redo the shims in the bearing cap? I did not do this the first time I rebuilt my T5 and it had some end play. Well I got to rebuild it again (Oh, Joy) and this time I shimmed it right and the play is gone. I think the play led to the demise of the front bearing on mine.

I thought that the WCs had some kind of special syncros and bearings in place of the bushings on the gears . If you want to see a NWC tranny see the website in my sig. I took some pics of the innards of my 84 for comparison.

Some food for thought.

Dale

Tom84L69

well the pictures on 86chicken's site look like the non wc tranny has brass synchros. What kind of synchros does a wc t5 have? is it nylon?

Steve89GTA

You are absolutely right 86 chicken. The back plat the bolts down to the housing must be shimmed accordingly. However, a little play is normal and recommended by the official repair manual.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I believe they are a friction material, not unlike an automatic transmission clutch or band. Hence the requirement for ATF; gear oil would make them swell and um... not work.

Matthew

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

When I replaced the bearing, I reused the same shim that was there when I started. My T5 looks just like the one on 86's site. It also looks just like the inside of a spare 2.8 trans I took apart to get the synchro spring from. I guess I'm going to have to take both transmissions apart and see for myself.