TurboTony

Hey everybody, I'm trying to locate where to purchase an oversized tv boost valve.

I'm looking for either a .544 or preferably .577 valve.


Thanks in advance

Tony

TurboTony

Anybody ?

Tony

transfixleo

Sorry, I never go that big and in fact usually don't go over .477 (largest GM made). I have heard of weakness in those over-oversized valves so I guess I have to ask why you think you need such a large valve?

Derrick824

try these

www.racing-transmissions.com
www.pro-built.net
www.transmissioncenter.net

TurboTony

Apparently my tranny cam from the factory with a .499 valve, still not convinced on that one though, will take it out and measure it soon.

The reason I'm looking for a larger valve is to get more line rise at part throttle.

Bieng that my truck is turbocharged i can get a very signifigant amount of torque at very low throttle. Its not uncommon to see
10 psi at 1/4 throttle while cruising around.

I was already experiencing some slip on the 2/3 shift last year at part throttle, I either had to get into it or right out of it when the shift was about to take place.


I looked at all those sites but the largest i saw was a .522 valve, guess I should just call them and talk to a live body.

If anyone has any other suggestions or ideas I would love to hear them.

I am by no means any sort of tranny expert, so if my line of thinking is flawed I'd like to hear that too.


TurboTony

Jay 727

Sounds like the 3-4 clutches are on the way out.
OR it was rebuilt to stock specs.
To remedy the problem correctly it should be rebuilt to high performance specs and a transgo shift kit installed. The shift kit is the right way to cure the line rise problem. If the trans is in good condition the shift kit alone may solve the problem.

TurboTony

Thanks for the input Jay.

Lemme just clarify a bit.

The tranny is actually in good shape, considering it has 90,000 miles of pure abuse no doubt.

Just pulled it out the other day to go through it before something does happen to it. I didn't mean to say that it had severly slipping 2-3 shifts, but i could tell that it wasn't as quick as it shoulda been at part throttle.

My engine is pushing considerably more than a stocker at this point, right around 550 hp with a track tuneup.

My plan is to do all the goodies while I have it out

3200 stall convertor
transgo 2-3 high rev kit
no yoyo high rev kit
billet 1-2 servo
updated sun shell
alto wide redl-lined band
kolene steels
4l60e 3-4 stackup
cryo treated inut drum, output shaft, annuluses
raybestos blue clutches
phosfated input drum
.577 tv boost valve


I realize that the transgo kit increases your line pressure/rise but i'm looking for a little more outta the valve


Thanks again for the advice, and please keep it coming


TurboTony

transfixleo

A couple of questions here. Was the tranny stock all this time? What condition was the Band in? I am not a big fan of the Super Servo for this tranny. If the tranny was stock then you might be surprised what the TransGo Kit can do for it. I also am a big fan of the 4L60E 3-4 pack. In your application I would use the top and bottom plates from it and the TransGo release spring kit as you plan to. I would personaly run the Thin B/W High Energy frictions and 700 steels to get eight frictions in there. Kolene is fine. I would also use the late Reverse steels ("Turbulator") as it may help reduce drag in non-applied clutch packs. Keep us posted on your progress!

transfixleo

Wow! I went to one of the sites there, first off, I wouldn't deal with them just because of the annoying noise on their web page (oops, I'm sounding old here). Second, they charge $14.95 to answer questions? Wow, at last count 1364 posts I've answered X $14.95! Whooey! I can't wait for the money to pour in! Oh wait, they get that. I better rethink this a bit

Pro Built Automatics

You noticed that too? I saw this a few months ago, I could quit building transmissions if I could charge this!? Well.....

Pro Built Automatics

I have seen the .521 from ..... and the .570 from..... The .570 collapses on itself, the .521 cost over $60.00. Extra-wide 2-4 band not necessary, the Borg-Warner Hi-Energy works the best. If you want faster line rise use the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit along with the .500 main boost valve & .296 intermediate/reverse boost valve along with the Corvette servo (pass on the billet servo). Why spend the extra money on these so-called performance items? The Trans-Go Performance Shift kit will address the line rise problem you are talking about, in fact if you install this kit change the blue spring at the "line bias" to the red spring (I do this in super/turbo charged (high horsepower) situations), this should solve the line rise problem. I have several high 10 second vehicles without the stuff you mentioned doing fine. Transfixleo & I have been doing this for many years. If there was something better???

TurboTony

Thanks again for the advice guys, i really do appreciate it.

Transfixleo

Yes the tranny was 100% stock at the time, band was in good shape. Just tore the tranny down today, all and all it was in pretty good shape.

The only major problem that i found was a cracked forward piston. The forward clutch was okay but the overrun clutch was burned up. Other than that all is well.

I pulled the tv boost valve to measure, it is a .477. It already has the corvette servo, but I already bought the billet servo so i will go ahead and use it

As for the 3-4 clutch pack, i'm gonna use the 4l60e stackup with 8 clutches and .080 kolenes as you previously told me to

I also decided to go with raybestos blue clutches. I was told that they stand up to abuse better, they are more money but i figured i may as well get the best. Thoughts on this?

Pheww, hope you guys are still reading, lol

One more thing to pick your brain about,

The tranny currently has a 10 vane pump, is it worth it to upgrade to a 13 vane? Any disadvantages?


Once again, thanks again guys. Please don't think i'm ignoring your advice, I'm just collecting thoughts from every source i can find and trying to make some informed descions.

TurboTony

TurboTony

Almost forgot,

Probuilt, what sizes of boost valves do you carry, I'd rather support guys that help the community than pay the annoying music guys

TurboTony

Pro Built Automatics

The .500 main boost valve & a .296 intermediate/reverse boost valve are necessary for true 450 HP+. The Blue Plate Specials "are not" better than the Borg Warner Hi-Energy's in the 3-4 clutch pack, I have not seen any tests or real examples where the BPS's perform better, and for 3 to 4 times the price.....pass. All my high 10 & low 11 second vehicles have the BW Hi-E's with good success. The 10-vane setup is all you will need along with the Trans-Go No-Yo-Yo steels rings, the clearences need to be reduced in the front pump to about .001-.0015 for the rotor & .0015-.002 clearence for the slide. The 13 vane requires more than the rotor & slide, as there are modifications done to the pump itself, the 13-vane advantage is it runs quieter "thats it". Both sides of the pump need to be perfectly flat (remachined) to prevent crossleaks. I carry the boost valves in stock.

transfixleo

I can't add anything to what Dana said- he beat me to it!

As for the billet Servo- you may want to put it on E-bay. We have had guys on here break their bands with it and you did say the band was in good shape, right? Why, mess with success? Not to mention the increased load on the 3-4's during the shift. You see it feels firmer due to the increased bindup on the upshift but only gives increased holding power in 2nd.

TurboTony

Okie guys, points taken

Probuilt, Decided to take your advice on the clutches and pump.

I didn't realize that the blues were that expensive. Best I found locally was 13 bucks a plate

Went with the high energys instead.

Took a good look at the pump, all seems okay, no scoring marks, etc. Deciced to leave it alone, just ordered new vanes and I will get Mr Youngers hardened rings.

Transfixleo,

I just don't feel right about reusing the band, its had a hard life
It looked pretty good except for a dark ring around the middle of the surface, drum did look good, no grooves, no heat marks, etc.


One more question

My forward roller clutch is a little loose,

The actual element is okay, 29 btw, but the stamped steel part that is drives the overrun clutch is loose on the hub.
According to GM you can't buy that seperate, gotta buy the whole roller assembly, Should i worry about it?
sorry for the poor description, like I said I'm no tranny expert, I can post a pic if you like



TurboTony

Pro Built Automatics

Look for wear on the inner sprag teeth, and on the inner race. It has to be near perfect to last. Do not roughen up the inner race, must have a near mirror finish. The outer race can & should be slightly rough. Take a staight edge and check the reverse input drum where the band rides to make sure it is "flat", if there is even a slight dip in the middle get a new one or one with no dip. Use the Borg-Warner Hi-Energy 2-4 band, there is nothing better. The stamped steel part (overrun hub) can be a little loose that's ok. I hope this helps some.

transfixleo

I wasn't suggesting reusing the band, just to use the original Servo instead of the aftermarket one. Are you sure it wasn't 28 elements? The 29 didn't come out until the 4L60E. I use the 29 element 4L60E Sprag and I replace the hub with the late 4L60E hub (used is OK but it must be the 'flat' top one). I see these in the 150K plus range and they are still working fine. This is the SKS brand sprag. B/W now offers a 29 element replacement and normally I am a big fan of anything B/W but with the success of the SKS, why change? Support who makes what works best, IMO, is the only way to get more such products (and force the hand of others to follow suit, IE: B/W in this case!)