When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm using a Lakewood 150000 SFI approved bell housing. It was out .045" to the 10 o'clock position, so I installed some .021" offset dowels from https://www.robbmcperformance.com/
Howe 82870 hydraulic TOB.
Howe 82874 stud for TOB
Fourth gen clutch master
Russel 641001 clutch line adapters (for -3 AN clutch line/hose)
Bowler performance VSS and Reverse switch pigtails
Hanlon motorsports 7 oclock offset shifter
Home made handle / stick
Custom driveshaft, 41.75" ujoint center to ujoint center, 3" 14 gauge tube, 1330 yoke ends, and a spicer 31 spline yoke.
I re-used the factory crossmember, however I have a short torque arm that mounts to an independent bracket.
I'm going to use my Dakota SGI-5 to deal to replace the DRAC. I'm not running a factory ECU.
My shifter on my TKX swap is way up there too. To make matters worse, I used Holley mounts for my LS swap moving the sucker even further forward.
The factory boot will fit and work fine even that far forward. The bigger issue is getting the concole shifter cover to fit. In that location it hits the ash tray.
I puchased TKX Revolver Lock Shifter for my swap. I originally used Hanlon Motorsports shifter but I needed a little move offset after the LS swap.
I'm fine with the offset but some people don't like the movement as it is more up and down then centered front to back if that makes sense.
It helps in the sense that mine is pretty similar. But now I'm jealous of that awesome looking exhaust! That looks great.
Thank you. It's made by speed engineering, popular with the 4th gen guys. It's a true dual 3" stainless with bullet mufflers. I changed the tips into normal turn downs, and then I did a dual 3" to single 3.5" merge since I'm a single turbo.
Driveshaft shop is making my new driveshaft. The one I had is a little short. Doing 42.25" center to center with 1330 yokes and a 3R conversion joint for now.
Now the fun part, a 3R joint is the same as a 1330 if you remove the two clips, so it will fit in the saddles of the 9" when I get that in over the winter. (we just tried at the driveshaft shop, fits the 9" yoke like a glove).
My speedo and reverse lamp connectors from bowler performance should arrive today.
I started making a shifter adapter last night.
It's made out of 3/8" mild steel plate. This will move the stick rearwards 2", and allow the stick to move up 3/4" if needed. (will largely depend on which stick is used). I'm going to try the normal third gen pro 5.0 stick, as it has a angle cut in it which should send it up to the driver side:
The Pro 5.0 4th gen stick could work too, but I'll try this one first.
So the outstanding issue is going to be the rubber boot that covers this. the factory one won't work because the hole is in a completely different location. I kinda hate the idea of buying a cheesy aftermarket one, but that might be the only option.
My shifter on my TKX swap is way up there too. To make matters worse, I used Holley mounts for my LS swap moving the sucker even further forward.
The factory boot will fit and work fine even that far forward. The bigger issue is getting the concole shifter cover to fit. In that location it hits the ash tray.
I puchased TKX Revolver Lock Shifter for my swap. I originally used Hanlon Motorsports shifter but I needed a little move offset after the LS swap.
I'm fine with the offset but some people don't like the movement as it is more up and down then centered front to back if that makes sense.
Do you have a photo of the factory shifter boot? Did you turn it around backwards or something?
With the offset adapter I'm building, the stick should come through the console in the same spot. It's the actual shifter coming through the rubber boot I'm trying to resolve.
I also need to fine tune my tail shaft height/pinion angle. I checked it last night and I was at 4 degrees down on the transmission, and the rear end was 2 degrees up. I think one more 1/4" shim will bring the transmission up enough to be within spec.
I thought about turning it around but I just decided to give it a go. You can see the bulge at the top right corner. The boot doesn't seem to care at all.
I thought about turning it around but I just decided to give it a go. You can see the bulge at the top right corner. The boot doesn't seem to care at all.
Interesting. Your shifter also appears to be a lot more centered in the tunnel than mine. When you set up your holley mounts, did you bias the engine 5/8" to the passenger side like stock?
I'm still looking for a new shift lever. The one I'm using as you can see from the pictures was mounted on the other side and trimmed poorly so it is uneven.
I contemplated using one of those rear offset shifters to avoid the small adapter I'm using. Still on the fence for now.
I still have this thing if you are interested. It has very few miles on it. Shoot me a DM if you are interested...
Seems perfect. Shifter is pretty much dead on with where the pro 5.0 was on the T5.
Pinion angle is within .8 degrees, so I'm happy with that. Just waiting for the shifter stick I ordered to show up. Need to add fluid, and set up my SGI-5.
I made a shifter stick out of a factory T5 shifter an some 3/8" plate. The cheap ebay T56 sticks are way to short. A comfortable length for me was 6.25" from the top bolt to the top of the threads.
I put a very very slight offset to the drivers side, not as severe as the T5/T56 sticks. This works out perfect for me along with the shifter I purchased from @badtenant
Filled with Tremec high performance transmission fluid. I need to wire up the SGI5 box, maybe next week.
08-27-2024, 07:58 PM
