Looking for an axle package. I have a third member. Who's 9" is the best deal ? Quick? Moser ?

 

Quick seems the best budget/value i think. One buddy has their housing and liked it. Cars been 4.50’s. They have their own brand axles i guess or a moser upgrade for cost adder.

i went midwest chassis, fabricated housing, which doesnt like moser axles lol they use strange. I dont see a problem with them but i guess something about the overall machining quality? They are abit more pricey but very nice. Comes with its own torque arm system where you weld in a crossmember so you need subframes installed

moser street 9” are stupid heavy. Id pay for the fab housing imo

 

quick performance!

 

Midwest Chassis. They hold their value a lot better than any of the other units out there. If you ever decided to sell it you could get most of if not all of your money back. The torque arm has tons of clearance and makes setting pinion angle as easy as twisting your wrist.

I had a quick performance 9 and honestly it fit like ****. The funky torque arm bracket was a joke and hit the floor.

 

I have a full moser setup in my car. It was a pretty simple setup and complete. It's been pretty well abused and held up great. Its torque arm mount needed a little clearancing on the floor in one small spot. My car is lowered 1.5-2in. If it was higher I think it would not have been an issue. They're may have been less expensive ways to go about it but I'm happy w it

 

Thank you for the replies. The Midwest looks interesting. Any photos of that torque arm bar in the vehicle? curious where it lands.

Anyone have any photos of the Quick ? The ones on the website are terrible. Curious how the torque arm mount is set up. I currently have a jegster torque arm in the car. Always liked it.

-- Joe

 

The crossmember lands about 6 inches behind the transmission crossmember. The torque arm is mwc 3rd gen specific mid length 2 piece arm. I don't have any pics of it in the car for whatever reason.

 

I have a single 3.5" exhaust in the stock routing. Would that be a problem getting over or under it?

 

You could easily snake it in between the trans and TA crossmember. The crossmember is actually a 3 piece unit the center is held by 4 bolts on each side

 

i still have my spohn crossmember that i want to junk and make my own lighter mount.
But thats where my midwest went

 

That must be an older design torque arm from mwc?? I see your adjuster is on the bottom where mine is on the down slope and twists

 

I have personally owned Moser, Quick Performance, Midwest Chassis and Racecraft. My Quick Performance housing bent 3/16 of an inch in 2 years and the torque arm mount failed. I tried to buy a torque arm mount to replace it and they refused to sell me one. The Moser was just fine with the exception of the splines on the axles chipping (but to be fair I was 650hp and 3700lbs on 31 spline axles) but it was definitely heavy. Midwest Chassis and Racecraft are both works of art. Midwest is the best bang for the buck IMO.

 

I also had a quick performance 9 but never had a chance to run it. The thing for like **** and would have needed all kinds of floor clearancing etc etc. Then I figured I'd buy the mwc torque arm and mounting tabs but that would've been a separate nightmare and just pulled the thing out and sold it off

 

purchased jan 2022

 

Hmmm maybe mine is an older design. I bought mine Jan 2021

 

Did you bend the quick housing with the same 650 hp mill? Did you drag the car with slicks? Just looking for context as I weigh my own 9" options.

 

Interesting question. 650hp seems low to bend a housing.

For context, I've had a built 10 bolt for a decade and my supercharger made over 600 crank hp. My new turbo setup should make around 800.

10 bolt is still going strong but I was thinking of putting it in my 4th gen formula as that car has a 2.73.
​​​​

 

did you order the back brace and gusset options? Fabricated big web? With all that id be shocked if it bent. On my buddy’s housing, he has those options and makes closer to 1600-1700 at the tire and has gon 4.50’s in the 1/8.

 

Jesus Christ. I remember when I first started going to the track 30 years ago, 12 second quarter miles were considered fast. The first time I broke into 120mph I was impressed.

Now I go to the track and I see fwd imports running 9s.

​​​​​​I'm not sure yet whether or not I'm going to run slicks on this car, I think even with a TKX transmission it might break stuff. Was thinking maybe just some drag radials and spinning out of the gate.

 

I went with the Quick Performance Light and strong fabricated housing. It was priced better than the Moser at that time. It is a nice unit and fit well.

 

I like the Midwest Chassis torque arm. My car needs that.

 

i like their setup too just wish it was a bit shorter to help hit the rear harder. The geometry with the long arm, lca angles and ride height doesnt seem to have alot of antisquat and separation for me.

my buddy for some reason says he bent the older midwest torque arm but i make more power and heavier than he is, and havent hurt mine yet

 

yeah its not hard these days. Holley efi, todays turbo options. Just add fuel and boost lol hard part is just getting a glued track to get the radials to do their job. Typical bracket race track prep doesnt quite allow them to fully shine.

The whole stock ls long block stuff with china turbo is so cheap and easy now for 8-9 sec cars anymore

 

It was a 700hp nitrous, stick shift car on slicks. A lot of launch RPM. It was one of their older housings with just internals gussets. Im sure their newer stuff is better.

Mine was an older housing. It had internal gussets but it was just a stamped housing. I straightened the housing and back braced it. But when they refused to sell me a torque arm bracket that told me everything I needed to know about them.

 

Joe , as requested
Anticipating a possible flex point and knowing never going back to stock , I cut and welded the Spohn TA adapter direct to the QP adapter eliminating the bolts.
​​​​​​​(Only used the adapter because I had it , would have been easy enough to fab the required mounts for the rose joints as shown )








Out of the box


Modified bracket

 

The way you've got that bracket modified is the way it should have been built by QP

 

I get what they were after tho, to use stock style torque arm systems with the long thru bolts. Better compatibility. Else they could have made their own trq arm to go with the rear end like midwest does. But thats abit more money

 

Yea I get that too and maybe they work great with a stock TA but using that bracket with any other arm is asking for problems. I think I tried 3 different brand TA's when I had mine for that very short period. Only way I could get it to fit was to move the whole rear end way over towards the passenger side or cut the floor to make it fit better. Decided to sell it off and go Midwest

 

I bought the Quick Fab9 housing. Should be here tomorrow. Axles showed up a few days ago.

So .. This torque arm has me puzzled. I have a jegster tunnel mount torque arm in the car right now, but I've always been annoyed by the clunk, and it transmits a ton of gear noise through the floor.

So I was looking at your modification, and thinking maybe something like that along with going back to a longer torque arm. I noticed something about the UMI style crossmember:



So the mount for the front of the crossmember is adjustable up or down to set the pinion angle (via multiple holes). It has me wondering if that's a more reliable design than using the heim joints for pinion angle.

Then it had me thinking further, would I even need the heim joints in the back or should those be welded to just be bolt eyelets?

I have a non-adjustable Spohn torque arm in the shop, with the round end. I could weld it to the QP adapter and then buy or make a crossmember with an adjustable torque arm mount. The only issue I might run into, is my MAC subframe connectors might be in the way of the large mounting surface of the UMI/Hawks/whomever torque arm:



I suppose I could just trim it as needed.

 

Trim it back and make your own crossmember for the torque arm. Kinda like I've got on my Midwest Chassis fab 9

 

Exhaust is in the way. There is no way I could make something that attaches to both sides without going through the exhaust.

 

Housing showed up. No provision for torque arm mounts because I wanted a clean slate. The location they put them in is too far towards the passenger side to run a straight arm (better for their adapter which everyone complains about) so. I think I'm going to modify this UMI torque arm I have and ad some bushed rod ends and weld some mounting tabs to the housing so it's straight. Then I need a clamshell mount somewhere up front.

 

So.. After lots of reading and thinking, I ended up ordering a Trick chassis TA mount. So, I probably should have just ordered the housing/axles from Trick instead of Quick. I like the design of their mount better, and while it's a bit heavier than the Quick adapter I think it will be better for what I'm doing.

I ordered a UMI torque crossmember with the TA mount on the crossmember. Hopefully there will be enough adjustability for the TA to set the pinion angle reasonably.

 

The housings themselves look fairly close to each other. The TA mount should go on nice and easy. When you put your crossmember on have your TA fully in so you get maximum adjustment for your pinion angle.

I prefer the Midwest Chassis 2 piece arm that attaches to the top and bottom of the housing and only needs to twist the upper tube to make adjustments a breeze

 

I've literally been thinking about this for the last 3 days. I was up until 2AM in the shop staring at things, measuring things, etc last night.

I came to the conclusion that I'm going to try this Trick TA adapter/mount, welding the tube nuts to the 9", and I'll stick the UMI torque on on it as is. IF I can't get the pinion angle set the way I need to by moving the front of the TA up and down, I'm going to cut the back of the TA off and weld some dom tubing and adjusters. I have some 1/2" plate in the shop I can plasma cut and drill to the same 3 bolt pattern, and weld some chassis tabs on it to accept the heim adjusters, so it will adjust the same way.

I like the idea of the 3 welded points on the actual 9" housing vs the two point chassis tabs that Quick/Midwest run. I'm not sure WHY I don't like it, I just don't.
I have my third member apart on the bench right now. The ring gear had some nasty pits so I bought some new motive gears. The yoke had a lip cut in it from the seal, so I ordered a new yoke. So basically, I'm using a 45 year old case and pinion support and new tru-trak, gears, bearings, seals, yoke. This is getting expensive!



-- Joe

 

I couldn't agree more! Costs can balloon when going turbo and wanting bigger power. My build took me about 5 years and cost just a hair over $45k. That being said after it was driving there were other issues that would show their ugly faces that I'd have to change or do something to make it work or straight up replace it with something better, lower profile. The worst part is that I still need to get body and paint done too. It just never seems to end

 

Have you guys ever actually verified the measurements on these housings?

The control arm mounts are 3/4" closer together, same with the shock mounts.

I feel like praying each control arm inward 3/8" is kinda a lot. I measured two factory ten bolt housings and they were both identical.

 

Yea I had the same issue with my QP housing. The other issue I had was with the actual TA mount that hit the floor board when everything was installed. The only way I could get the torque arm on was to use the panhard bar to move the axle all the way over towards the passenger side.

Then my next plan was to just order up the MWC 2 piece race arm that was 3rd gen specific length with the tabs but after seeing what kind of a pain in the *** that was gonna be I ended up pulling the QP housing and axles and sold it off for everything I paid for it and bought my Midwest Chassis fab 9. Everything about this rear end was better. It really did bolt in like the factory 10 bolt rear end.

After it was all said and done going with the Midwest unit did cost me more money but it's problem free and if I ever did decide to part the car out I know I could get almost every penny back from that unit

 

Yeah the midwest stuff was nice just took forever to get lol

 

Interesting, so they just make these 3/8" off on each side and people don't have any issues getting the control arms bolted in? I would think that that would be enough to caulk the control arm that the holes wouldn't line up..