Need info on Accumulator "plugging"
#1
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Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
Need info on Accumulator "plugging"
I've been reading up on what people have been doing for shift kits and such. I want to remove (?) the 1-2 accumulator piston, and while I'm in there I think I want to put the .500 valve in too.
Which hole in the accumulator do I want to plug? I've seen that some have tapped and threadlocked a plug, and others pop in an old check ball and staked (?) it. Also, should I do the same to the 3-4 accumulator?
Also, how is the B&M shift kit hard on the tranny (so I hear)?
Which hole in the accumulator do I want to plug? I've seen that some have tapped and threadlocked a plug, and others pop in an old check ball and staked (?) it. Also, should I do the same to the 3-4 accumulator?
Also, how is the B&M shift kit hard on the tranny (so I hear)?
#2
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My best advise is to skip the homemade stuff and put a real (TransGo) Shift Kit in. There is a difference between making a hard shift and fixing WHY these trannies fail. Have you ever heard of the Sun Shell breaking, leaving you with 1st, 3rd and no Reverse?
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I've got news for you, you never want/need to block the 1-2 accumulator as per B&M, Art Carr, etc. The "accumulator" acts as a shock asorber. When it is setup correctly, it can give a smooth part throttle 1-2 shift, and get a progressively firmer shift with more throttle. This has to do with what accumulator is used in the valve body, and the spring rate that is used on that valve. This valve is identified by the letter on the aluminum sleeve, such as ("B'-"A"-"N"-"M"-"L"-"K"-"F") and what the spring rate is on the external 2nd gear accumulator. Trans-Go addresses these problems in their Shift Kit (accumulator) and pressure rise problems, (early, late, soft, harsh bang shifts, no down shifts, TV cable will not adjust, etc.), due to pressure rise problems. The .500 main boost valve is fine for Hi-Performance applications, it should have the .296 intermediate/reverse boost valve to go along with this. Blocking the 3-4 accumulator in High-Performance applications will allow more shuift feel. The B&M will give you hard 1-2 part throttle shifts (in most cases) & soft 2-3 shifts at WOT, and do nothing to address the TV system problems, etc. I & transfixleo wish that "people on this board" would realize that Trans-Go is the ONLY ONE to address the "accumulation & TV system problems" that are inherent to the 700R4. They are the "Only ones" offering "fixes" for these units. No matter what the so-called "hot rod magazines" say, they are only trying to sell a product. They are not the "Consumer Reports of Hi-Performance Automatic Transmissions". When someone says that, B&M, Art Carr, etc. stuff worked for me, you are speaking from your own particular experience, and if this works out thats great for you! Problem is that this does not work/solve the problems that the 700R4 present for the mainstream on this or any other board.
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Car: Bee-Bowdy
Engine: blowd tree-fity
Transmission: sebin hunnerd
Axle/Gears: fo-tins
I believe both of you completely. The B&M shift kit was a quick fix so the trans would last more than a week. Now that everything workd alright and I have the $$$ again, I would like to do it right ya know?
The thing about the accumulator was stuff I heard and was hoping either of you could make sense of. You did just that, thanks.
Does the TransGo kit come with a new servo? I just bought the corvette servo and would like to avoid buying another one. Thanks!
The thing about the accumulator was stuff I heard and was hoping either of you could make sense of. You did just that, thanks.
Does the TransGo kit come with a new servo? I just bought the corvette servo and would like to avoid buying another one. Thanks!
Last edited by V8Astro Captain; 12-23-2001 at 01:07 PM.
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