New clutch won't disengage
#1
New clutch won't disengage
I have a totally stock Canadian 1983 Z28, carbureted 305, T5 with mechanical clutch linkage. This is a fun ride, not a performance vehicle. I have had it since new, so everything should be stock.
The clutch wore out so I installed a Rhino Pac Premium clutch kit, paying attention to the warnings about installing the throw-out bearing correctly on the fork, and installing the clutch disk correctly (protruding side away from the flywheel - it wasn't marked).
Now the clutch won't disengage, even when adjusted until there is negligible clutch free play. The one strange thing I noticed during assembly is that the actuating rod between the Z-bar and the throw-out lever had to be adjusted all the way out to get reasonable pedal free play.
Is there anything other than putting the disk in backward or installing the throw-out bearing incorrectly that could cause this?
The clutch wore out so I installed a Rhino Pac Premium clutch kit, paying attention to the warnings about installing the throw-out bearing correctly on the fork, and installing the clutch disk correctly (protruding side away from the flywheel - it wasn't marked).
Now the clutch won't disengage, even when adjusted until there is negligible clutch free play. The one strange thing I noticed during assembly is that the actuating rod between the Z-bar and the throw-out lever had to be adjusted all the way out to get reasonable pedal free play.
Is there anything other than putting the disk in backward or installing the throw-out bearing incorrectly that could cause this?
#3
Re: New clutch won't disengage
There is quite a bit of wear on parts of the linkage, but since the previous clutch worked until recently, I thought that it was a matter of adjustment to compensate for the wear.
I pulled the tranny to have a look. I noticed that there are marks on the inside of the diaphragm spring and on the clutch disk indicating that they interfered, (see attached photos).
The disk is not marked to indicate which side goes toward the flywheel - I installed it with the protruding side of clutch disk away from the flywheel, is that correct?
I pulled the tranny to have a look. I noticed that there are marks on the inside of the diaphragm spring and on the clutch disk indicating that they interfered, (see attached photos).
The disk is not marked to indicate which side goes toward the flywheel - I installed it with the protruding side of clutch disk away from the flywheel, is that correct?
#4
#5
Re: New clutch won't disengage
It appears that the hub of the clutch disk is thicker than the original, looks like they wrong parts were in the package. I'm waiting to hear back from the supplier.
#6
Re: New clutch won't disengage
There is quite a bit of wear on parts of the linkage, but since the previous clutch worked until recently, I thought that it was a matter of adjustment to compensate for the wear.
I pulled the tranny to have a look. I noticed that there are marks on the inside of the diaphragm spring and on the clutch disk indicating that they interfered, (see attached photos).
The disk is not marked to indicate which side goes toward the flywheel - I installed it with the protruding side of clutch disk away from the flywheel, is that correct?
I pulled the tranny to have a look. I noticed that there are marks on the inside of the diaphragm spring and on the clutch disk indicating that they interfered, (see attached photos).
The disk is not marked to indicate which side goes toward the flywheel - I installed it with the protruding side of clutch disk away from the flywheel, is that correct?
But,
A brand new disc will have a thicker fibre surface and potentially be harder to release than a thinner friction material, worn clutch. Also, the diaphragm spring grows taller as the disc gets thinner. So, no, a marginal mechanical linkage set up may not do the job on a new clutch.
If there is wear at the z-bar tube riding on the two ballstuds, a crack in the z-bar levers that you don't see, the slop is going to make release tough.
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