chucks_net

Hi everyone, I mostly read on here since I don't have enough knowledge to give good advise yet.

I gave a mechanic a Harley (worth about $2k) in trade for a T56 and installation back in July... T56 is in, stage 3 T56 clutch is in, but no wiring or hydraulics are done.

Car is a 1991 z28 with late model crate 350

First Question: There are two electrical connectors on the tranny -one in the middle and one at the end towards the rear of the car. There is only one wire coming from the car -which one does it go to? I assume this is the neutral switch?

Second Question: I have the stock T5 hydro setup on the car. What will I need to hook up the T56?

I think I will need to use steel braided line from master to slave?

Will I be able to use the T5 slave?

Will I be able to use the T5 master or should I get a cavalier master?

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

Depending on the year T56 you should have 3 plugs on the trans.



There is the VSS which is the lowest and near the back(3). The second is the reverse lockout solenoid. This should be right above the VSS towards the back(2). The 3rd if it is a 94-97 trans is the CAGS solenoid (red arrow on image). If it is a 93 T56 it will not have the CAGS solenoid. If you have the CAGS solenoid you can simply leave it unplugged.

Also you can leave the reverse lockout solenoid unplugged it will just be hard to get into the reverse gate. Some people wire it to the brake pedal or have a release switch they press to get into reverse. Some people use a Samoco box to have it work like the factory did it

http://www.samocoind.com/T56MODULE.html

And lastly the VSS for the speedo you will need a dakota digital SGI-5. Since you have a 91 Z28 you should have an electronic speedo instead of the cable driven speedo that the earlier camaros had. The T56 VSS runs at a different speed than the T5 VSS so you need the dakota digital box to convert it.

Hope that helps..

EDIT: Forgot about the hydro question. But yes all you should need is the longer T56 braided cable to connect the master and slave. You should be able to use the T5 master and slave.

chucks_net

Great thanks, that does help, thank you!

I will wire the lockout to my brake lights... seems to make the most sense

For speedo correction i will try to get a dakota digital box



Was a little nervous about the hydro stuff. It seems that everything I read says to grab the hydro setup from the gen 4. Since I don't have the gen 4 hydro setup knowing that I can just add a steel braided line is very good news.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I suggest you read this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ent-setup.html

There's no magic bullet to make sure your hydraulics will work unless you make them adjustable. There is a good chance they will work fine, but no guarantee. There's a lot of variance here from car to car.

chucks_net

I did see that article and thats why I got a little nervous.

I think my clutch will be easier to manage/ adjust. Its a stage 3 ceramic so there is no slippage -either its engaged or its not. Lots of grab


thanks again for the reply, I now have a plan of action in my head

1) Remove T5 hard Hydro line from master
2) Replace with Braided line
3) Wire in lockout
4) Wire in Speedo (Dakota)

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

You will have too much throw. I have a Cavalier slave I'm going to try next and hope it fixes my problem. If you run the t5 pedals and hydros with a SS line it will push the clutch for way too far. Try a Cavalier slave....


Search my old threads as well and you will find the part numbers for the line. Very easy to make...

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I forgot to mention you will have too much throw. You will either have to mod the pedal for less throw or as mentioned use a cavalier slave.

But the 3rd gen hydros will work in a pinch it will just grab very high and possibly pushing the clutch all the way in will make the clutch fork contact the pressure plate.

chucks_net

I looked at all the threads -spent a couple hours reading -its better than a couple hours of hacking...

I did consider the cavalier master -it was the master that changes the throw right?

I really just want to get the car driving first. Then I can decide if I need to get a cavalier master or fab up some type of adjuster.

That sound good? Open to suggestions

thanks for the replies. they are going to save me a ton of time

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

No its the slave on the trans you change. The master up on the firewall can stay.

chucks_net

OK -thanks for the clarification

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

I have both in my hands now. When I measure the differences I will report back...

chucks_net

That would be great info.

Also if you have the info on the braided line that would very helpful... save me some crawling under the car a couple times.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...i-use-4th.html

chucks_net

The clutch line for a 95 camaro is $90-$160

So I bought this whole kit for $93:http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...parttype=10290


I also picked up a slave cylinder from a 1990 cavalier for $18: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=2044

I got the last one at $18

I should have everything I need to get it where it should be

chucks_net

Looking at it again... will this be long enough? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...096&cc=1035908

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Probably not. I'd make a line...

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Well if its factory for a T56 car it will fit fine.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

True...

chucks_net

Waiting for the parts to come in

chucks_net

Parts came in, installed the gen4 master and slave. I did an easy mod to the master push rod which shortened it about an inch. I think it will give me perfect throw but the pedal sits closer to the floor. It seems to engage properly but won't know for sure until she is off jack stands

Pushrod removed, a little grinding to take apart the pushrod


Modifying the pushrod; simply drill out the eyelit end




Left: a push rod in stock position, Right push rod modified





Now to sort the electrical... this thread & LilSki -your post has been a life saver, thank you. Ordering a dakota as well as a somoco

I decided on the somoco rather than using the brakes because I can see downshifting with the brakes grinding the gears

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

What is a somoco?

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

http://www.samocoind.com/T56MODULE.html

It allows the reverse lockout to work like the factory where it reads the VSS and allows it to go into reverse when it under 5 MPH.

chucks_net

Somoco is for the reverse lockout solenoid. I changed my mind, I' going to put a lockout switch on the shifter

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

So i got new t56 hydro's had a 1 inch removed from the rode and i just installed them and my pedal is sitting all the way on the floor?

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

What pedals?

chucks_net

Mine has about half the throw distance of the brake pedal. Im running a stage 3 clutch so I only needed an inch of throw for operation. I have about 1.5inches to get to the floor after the clutch is disengaged. That's not much at all but at least my clutch isn't hitting. Also I'm using the gen4 flywheel, master, slave, and gen3 pedals

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I simply used the 4th gen slave cylinder assembly and it bolted right in using the OEM T5 pedals. I think I had to modify something on the mounting tab on the pedal but it only took about 10 min. Nothing hard. I left the CAGS unplugged, used a SGI 5 box and the reverse lights harness was a simple swap of two wires on the new harness.

The T56 swap was one of the easiest mods I did to my car.

obeymybird

iTrader: (4)

Still have the factory t5 pedals this is my second t56 swap first time around i had the over travel issue, so this time i cut off a inch now it seems like i wont have any travel.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

With an inch removed, Im not sure what slave/master combo you should run...


Sounds to me like the master is too short!

chucks_net

just remove the master and make it adjustable

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)