pjp209

anybody know of a good way to remove the 3 tc bolts? 700r4 still hooked up to motor in the car. ive been looking around for a flexplate tool but no luck any input is helpful. thanks

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Use a long bar or thick screwdriver to lock the convertor , undo one convertor bolt ,
then use the screwdriver on the flexplate teeth to lever the flexplate around to access the next bolt

If you can't hold convertor in place by yourself ,pull a spark plug and jam 3 ft of 5/16" nylon rope into the cylinder ( make sure to tie the loose end of rope to something )
and hand rotate the engine over until is stops moving .This obviously needs to be done 3 times as you do the different bolts

pjp209

ill try to lock up the converter again thanks o yeah i just found rope ill try that if i fail to lock up the converter

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Use the wrench perpendicular to the bottom bolt to the crank centerline.
Grab the flexplate and pull down on it. until the next bolt is at 6:00.
Repeat.

pjp209

i tried all these ways and i can get them bolts to move its like they are welded in there i dont know what to do

ASE doc

Several tool manufacturers make a flywheel holding tool(mine is a KD tools brand). It clutches the teeth of the flywheel/flexplate and has a long handle that provides leverage so that you can turn the crankshaft and/or hold the flexplate from turning while you break the TQ bolts loose. They are often locked in place with red Locktight.

pjp209

i called around nobody has anything do you know where i can get one

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Won't help undoing the bolts any better than locking the motor with rope in the cyl ( with the rope trick you have one hand free ; with the flexplate tool you need two hands in use )
Spray some PB blaster on the bolts and let them soak
Use the longest ring spanner you have ( not a open end spanner that might slip and round the bolt head off ) and hit the spanner with a hammer to break the bolt loose

pjp209

been spraying pb blaster for a few days i used a hammer to tap/hit on the bolt. the rope method i tried but the flex-plate still moves maybe I'm not putting it in the right cylinder idk ill keep tryn. maybe a torch is next

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If the wrench is at the right angle, you'll get the bolt loosened (moving the wrench in the red arc) without the flexplate moving much. Once loosened, they'll come right out.

Hope it helps.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I don't know for sure how much room the V8s have under there, but...

I had a real nice time getting those TC bolts out when I did my trans swap. First thing I did was to jam a screwdriver through one of the flexplate holes and against the engine block to stop the plate/crank from turning. I got ONE of the TC bolts out by hand. The other 2 stripped (I hate that most combo wrench sets come with 12 point wrenches instead of 6!). I ended up using a bunch of extensions and a 6 point socket on the end of an impact wrench to get those SOB's out... After I got a replacement impact because the one I got as a gift was too weak (220 ft lbs as opposed to 400).

:edit: The arc in the pic in the post above this one is reverse... Red arrow should be pointing towards the crank and not outward (unless that is the TC side of the plate which it doesn't look like it is). Yes, you can tighten the bolt to try to break it loose, but eventually you're going to have to go in the other direction or the bolt may snap.

novaderrik

i know this may sound stupid- but you are turning the bolts the proper direction, right? it's easy to get things turned around when you are laying on your back and looking at things sideways...

that being said, here's what i do.. i have a flywheel turning tool, but a big screwdriver also works... just do whatever you've gotta do to keep the crank from turning... if you pull the oil filter, there is room to get an 18" long 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 15mm 6 point socket on the bolt.. put it on the bolt and push/pull as hard as you can towards the **drivers** side of the car. sometimes you have to reconfigure how you are laying under there and go in from the driver's side feet first, planting your feet on the frame rails on the opposite side of the car and pulling as hard as you can on the breaker bar.

i don't know what it is about torque converter bolts, but they can really get seized in there after a short period of time.

ASE doc

A 6 point socket is better to use than a 12 point wrench. Of course you want to be using quality, USA made, tools and not Chinese garbage. You may need to use a long handle ratchet or even a breaker handle. I generally just drop the starter and use my high torque air ratchet with a 15mm impact wobbly socket. The head of the ratchet will run into the engine block and stop the flexplate from rotating anyway and I can exert alot of force against the bolt. Remember, counterclockwise to loosen.

pjp209

I'm turning it the right way. i don't got a 15mm open wrench ima go buy one today. oil filter is removed i got the converter to stop moving but the bolt stops between the oil pan thats why ima go buy a open wrench today. thanks. been using a 15mm socket

ASE doc

Don't try using an open end wrench on those bolts. You'll only round them off. Even my Snap On open end wrenches will slip on a bolt that tight. You need to be using the 15mm socket and a longer ratchet handle. In the bad old days before I had every tool made, I used to put a length of pipe on my Craftsman ratchet handle for increased leverage.

pjp209

ok i wont use the wrench i dont need round bolts thanks. just got them loose with a longer ratchet with my feet toward ps wheel with oil filter out i didn't need the screwdriver. thank all of you for the help/info

ASE doc

Cool.

pjp209

will the transmission be ok on the crossmember?

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

If you mean will it stay there when you pull the engine,
No
The cross member is way at the back of the tranny, it will fall down, possible twisting the crossmember and torque arm mount. You will prob need to support the front to get the engine to disengage.

ASE doc

I'll warn you ahead of time. Supporting the front of the trans as stealth has suggested, you will be able to get the motor out okay, clearance to the trans tunnel may be an issue. Putting it back in will be a different story. Getting the block to align with the bellhousing, while getting the motor mounts to align and slip into place, will make you wish you had just pulled the trans and motor as a unit. It's hard enough on a pick up chassis where there's lots of room. On the f-body, there is no room. Removing the trans from the engine on the hoist is no picnic, but with a helper it's very doable. Installing an engine with the trans in place is alot more of a problem. Of course, you can always just drop the trans out and reinstall it once the motor is in. There's really not much keeping it in now anyway.

novaderrik

bahh... it's not hard to line up the bellhousing bolts when putting the engine in the car with the trans already in place.. a jack under the front of the trans pan will allow you to move the front of the trans up and down and twist it side to side to line things up merely by moving the jack a little to either side of the pan. it took me about 5 minutes to drop the 305 in my car and get the motor mount bolts in with the trans in place. sometimes they fall right in, sometimes they like to fight a bit- but if you can take it apart that way you can put it back together that way.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

Either way will work.
I was skeptical as well when I first read about pulling the whole thing as one, but after doing several third gen by both methods, I now endorse pulling and installing the motor and trans together. There really isn't much clearance in the tunnel and the fact that the tranny doesnt balance on the crossmember makes it a big pain.
The car has to be jacked up high enough to allow the tail shaft to drop far enough and you will want a good engine crane and support.

pjp209

just got the motor out ive been a lil busy to post. ill keep you guys updated.