1gary

I thought the T56 was a performance trans that stock was ready for use.I have to admit I haven't been paying much attention to the T56's so I have alot to learn.

This a copy of a Ebay add of a company that does work on T56's and it seems they need alot of work to get them to work correctly.I am looking for input from you guys.So here is the copy from the ad.

Here is what we do:



Performance parts list:

• Upgraded 1-6 carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings
• Reverse synchronizer ring
• Bronze fork pads for the 1-2 & 3-4
• Billet keys for the 3-4 with upgraded springs
• Billet keys for the 1-2 with upgraded springs
• Bronze shifter bushing / isolator cup
• Snap ring kit
• 3-4 steel shift fork
• Stock 5-6 & reverse fork pads
• Stock 5-6 & reverse keys & springs
• front & rear seals

·Carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings
Carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings provide much better shifting than stock paper lined parts.
·Bronze fork pads 1-2 and 3-4
Bronze fork pads are a necessary upgrade for all T56 high performance and racing applications! These will not fail or wear like the stock Teflon pads.
·Billet Synchronizer Keys 1-2 and 3-4
Billet keys are a necessary upgrade for high performance and race applications. Replace the weak stamped steel keys with a superior billet material.
·Steel 3-4 shift fork.
This is the upgraded T56 3-4 steel shift fork used in the Vipers and will fits all T56 transmissions. It replaces the weaker aluminum shift fork with a much stronger steel fork.

Oh.Sorry.I forgot to say thank you in advance,

Gary

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I build them.

Labeling all those as performance parts is erroneous; most are stock replacement parts, some of which weren't introduced until later iterations of the T56.

The bronze parts may sound snazzy but they have their own faults. I never install a bronze shifter bushing unless the customer insists. The lever cup / shifter bushing is problematic if it comes unglued in 6 speed application; it gets sheared by the lever laterally as the lower shifter relationship to the lever wasn't idealized for the width of 4 gates. Tremec removed the adhesive information from the service manual so you'll buy a completely new $40 lever with $3 bushing and $2 of adhesive.

His pricing is not including core BTW.

Oh and I'm in the Phoenix area.

1gary

What are the ideal yrs to buy??. F-body 1999 to 2002 for 450 lbs of torque and a .50 overdrive??.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Wa...6_transmission

Also I see there are "center shifts"??. Is there two locations where you can have the shifter location??.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Do you have a Gen I or Gen III/IV engine?

If Gen I, you can use a stock LT1 T56, flywheel, and hydraulics with no issue as long as you have a 1 pc RMS engine. The 2 pc RMS engines require a $400ish conversion flywheel. The 93 T56's had slightly shorter gears all around and were rated for less torque. Generally the concensus is to avoid them.

If Gen III/IV, the LS1 F-body T56 is the ticket. All 94-02 F-body T56's had the same gear ratios as far as I am aware.

You can convert a 98-02 F-body T56 to work with a Gen I engine but it requires an adapter plate at least, maybe other issues too. A 94-97 T56 costs around $600-$1000 for parts to convert it for use with a Gen III/IV engine down the road. That may affect your decision.

The LT1 T56 uses a strange clutch with a reverse-pointed slave cylinder. They're fairly unique and there arent many clutch options out there. There are enough, but aside from maybe the high end Mcleods, they all use the exact same Valeo pressure plates. They increase grip by changing the clutch disc material, not by increasing clamping force. Normally this isnt a big deal, but its a transmission they only made for 5 years, you're just not gonna have a TON of options on it. But there is enough available that it isnt a huge concern. the clutches do cost a little more though it seems. $250 is about the starting point.

The LS1 T56's seemed to have crappy hydraulics from the factory. I think i read that GM didnt allow full pressure to the slave cylinder, so you never got complete clutch disengagement... something weird like that? Hence things like the "drill mod". LS1 T56's seem to go through synchros a lot faster, but that could be because of crappy hydraulics or because LS1's make oodles and caboodles of power. Nothing a fancy aftermarket $300 Tick master cylinder cant fix. The LT1 T56's despite being older and more worn out seem to last just as long, but they are getting very old now.

CTS-V and GTO T56's can work, but they require a lot of conversions to get them into other vehicles. The F-body ones are a direct drop in. If this is for a non F-body, then it may not matter so much. Corvette T56's are integrated into the rear axle and IRS, so they pretty much only work in corvettes.

I have a T56 from a 94 TA that was bracket raced and power shifted hard. I learned how to drive a stick with it in my car, and the thing makes noises, but it's held up great over the years Ive had it. They're very tough transmissions, and I think everything from 94+ had at least a 450 ft lb rating.

There are front shift conversions presumably for trucks:
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...17/7086456.htm

1gary

Wow.Lots of good info to take in.Thanks.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Things I'd take into consideration: Do you want to re-use the same length driveline? Do you need ultimate strength or will a stock f-body trans. work fine? Do you manhandle the shifter into gear when it's not shifting smoothly or do you know how to drive? Is getting emotionally attached to a particular bellhousing design and stacking up adapter plate(s) going to cause you to have to modify the floor? Put the torque arm on the crossmember yet? Ready to change differential gear for the best overall drivability with the ratios of the trans. you choose?

Fill out your user profile to speak to what car you're contemplating a swap to and more can be said. If you're talking third-gen, read the sticky again and ask specifics not answered there. In that case, the LT1 T56 makes a lot of sense but it's not the only way.