leedavidalan

I can't get into ANY gear and I'd like a taller/longer throw out bearing to help the fork travel. Anyone have a part # for such a bearing??

I have an 89 Iroc and this is the bearing that I'm using now:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-N1716/

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Id try and find the real cause of the problem. Did you just put this tranny combo in? Was the flywheel resurfaced? etc..

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Throwout bearing height doesn't change the fork travel... if it moves ½", it moves ½", no matter whether the throwout is an inch tall or a foot tall.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The longer version was NEVER used in the F-body T5 applications. Fork travel and resulting clutch release relies in part on correct fork to bearing geometry. Angling the fork back to a long throwout bearing means the geometry (and thus clutch release) are screwed up. To correct it, the ballstud would have to be shorter. Now we're onto:

You didn't respond as to whether the ballstud and fork are worn. Yet you want to buy an adjustable ballstud (the Lakewood doesn't fit your bellhousing; good luck finding one that does.)

Even if you did throw those parts in, then your slave cylinder pushrod is at that point, too short.


Have you verified the pedals are original 3rd gen pedals and not swapped-in 4th gen pedals (which have a shorter pedal travel) ?

You failed to address whether the throwout bearing was correctly installed to the fork clip (after it's been mentioned in 2 threads now) You didn't bother responding to a few things actually.

Did you ? You already have the parts out.

You said the flywheel was brand new last year. That means the flywheel to crank shims are not needed until you verify the functional depth of the flywheel is incorrectly short. Measure it yet?


I tend to trust the judgement of businesses that spend BILLIONS in research and development on parts. Their decisions tend to produce operational and reliable results. When you bring old men into the fray who fixed something in 1974 on a 1967 automobile with a longer throwout beating and then remember it 40 years later, it tends not to produce reliable results.

The clutch release is merely the symptom here. The problem has yet to be identified.

Dicking around with parts that are in no way determined to be necessary and serve mainly to cause it to be impossible to buy service parts off the shelf accomplishes anything?

Ignore this and decline to address the points brought up in your two threads as you see fit.

leedavidalan

We attached the bearing onto the fork correctly. Both the bearing and the fork were new as of last year and still APPEAR to be working properly. The flywheel was also new as of last year, but it was a stock flywheel and I do not know if the 383 was too much for it, perhaps shaving off some of it's surface.

My pivot stud is also stock. I'll examine it further when I get a chance.

My pedals are stock, as are my master/slave cylinders.

I already ordered a flywheel shim. Just a few bucks so it's worth a shot.

I wonder if this adjustable pivot ball is compatible with my 89 Iroc:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-3855G/

I think I addressed all/most of your points. Thanks for the continued help!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

There's some misinformation in this thread but there are a lot of "same thing as what you're going through" posts too:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ch-wont-2.html

You're probably not getting sufficient slave cylinder travel overall.
The slave pushrod has the plastic cap on it, yes?

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

If you really want to get crazy with it use a T56 slave cylinder. It will result in a lot more fork travel. It should be around a 30 percent increase. T56 slave uses a smaller bore and the same amount of moving fluid will result in more movement at the fork.

I dont think this is a good idea because you're still not dealing with whatever is wrong, but I'd do that before you start buying custom one off throwout bearing hats or whatever.

Also, remember, hydraulic systems, like your maser/slave system that actuates the fork, are inherently self-adjusting. If you move where the end of the clutch fork sits on the throwout bearing, then it will just move the other end of the clutch fork too, and your slave cylinder pushrod will just take more fluid out of your master cylinder to fill up the gap. A certain amount of pedal travel will always result in a certain amount of slave cylinder travel assuming the system is bled. All you are going to change is the geometry, and a lot of R&D and research by hugely wealthy engineering departments determined the correct geometry for you already.

I would go down there and actually measure how far the fork is moving if I were you.

leedavidalan

I don't have the plastic cap because were not using the stock pushrod. Last year when we dropped in the 383 we junked the rod and used something just a hair longer to take it's place.

Thanks guys, I'll keep in mind all that you've said thus far....