bigtizzles

Hi, I have an 89 RS. If I replace the rear end gear to a carrier thats made for 28 spline axles, can I simply use the 28 spline axles out like a 90-92 camaro? If so, will my 89 brakes bolt back on the newer axles? How much power will the stock drive shaft handle in my car?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yup. Good luck with that. Get these instead. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SAG-EV10-4/

Yup.

Plenty; if you're at a point where you have to ask, you probably don't need to worry.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Double-check the spline count on your 89, as apparently some late 89's were equipped with 28-spline axles.

JamesC

bigtizzles

I'm looking at a used Eaton 3.73 posi setup for the 7.5/7.625 10 bolt, but it requires 28 spline axles. I will check mine but i'm not that lucky. It stands to reason then that the 3rd gens that came with the 28 spline should plug right in. I just wanted to make sure before I bought the stuff and then the brakes and stuff wouldn't fit. So I'm good to buy this stuff? What do you mean "good luck with that" are you trying to say the stock 28 spline axles suck? Please give me a thumbs up or down before i miss out on these parts. Thanks guys!!!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If it's a Gov-Lock, don't bother. It's not suitable for a vehicle with both power and traction, let alone speed.

The reason I said "good luck with that", is pretty simple... 99% of the people who come into junkyards wanting anything to do with a rear end, want a rear end. Not components of it. Meaning, once anybody TOUCHES a rear with a tool, it has no further value, and they just trash the rest as a result. So, if a rear end price is say $300, then you can buy the rear for $300; all the guts for $300; the carrier for $300; the axles for $300; one axle for $300; one little piece of hardware for $300; etc. Reason being, once you take your little piece, whatever it is, the rest is WORTHLESS. So instead of thinking of it as "buying axles", what you're REALLY doing, is buying a rear end, and just leaving behind the parts you don't want.

Now... one of THE MOST sought-after parts there is, is 28-spline F-body axles. Now.... to get those axles for you, they're going to have to destroy NOT JUST a $300 rear, but more likely, a $500 rear. Especially if they have to gut a disc brake one to get your axles. How much you think you're going to pay for those?

Now consider that stock ones are made out of about the cheeeeeepest metal that's harder than butter; and virtually every junk one you find, is going to be wore out to the point that transplanting them won't survive long.

Makes new ones made of HIGH QUALITY metal instead of some sort of chinesium look ALOT more attractive, eh???

Brake fitment isn't a problem. Some early rears, before disc brakes started being pretty much standard on every "high perf" car, the axle flanges were too large OD to fit inside rotors; disc axles will fit inside drums, but the reverse isn't always true. But by 87 or so that problem seems to have disappeared in these cars.

The axles I linked you to will fit anything. I currently have them in a setup with the 89-up aluminum calipers. They fit perfect.

bigtizzles

I found two sets of those axles normal ones for 50 bucks and disc brake ones out of a 92 trans am for 80 bucks. Is this a good deal? I don't know if its a gov loc diff or not. So this combo will work? or if I buy the axles I should have no problem selling them for what I paid if I don't end up using them?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If you found em, go for it; either should work. Assuming of course that the surface where the bearing goes is good: you shouldn't be able to feel any difference between the rest of that surface, and the place the bearings have been running.

Here's a Gov-Lock.



If it looks like this inside, pass on it.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

The 10-Bolt sticky at the top of the page addresses many of your questions/concerns.

JamesC

bigtizzles

whats the problem with a gov-lock

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

It has a tendency to fail. A search will provide more info if you desire.

JamesC

Ron U.S.M.C.

If you are absolutely sure you have found a Eaton Posi. in working order especially if its a 28 spline I would grab it. (depending on how much they are asking).
It should look like this. Even with a great buy on the Eaton its still not cheap to have it installed with all the proper bushings and bearings ,axles and labor.Here's a list of what I installed with a upgrade.I highly recommend the support cover.


Master bearing kit = $90.00
Axel bearing and seals = $30.00
28 spline Eaton Posi.= $500.00
28 spline Axles = $250.00
Installation/labor = $300.00
L.P.W. Support cover = $160.00, link = http://www.jegs.com/i/L.P.W./619/301-7.5G/10002/-1 scroll over the small photos to see how thick it is.
I already had the Ring and Pinion.

bigtizzles

so can you use a gov-lock if you don't beat the **** out of your car? I see that most people say they suck, but some people say they are ok?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

The Gov-Lock was designed for low-power, off-road (NO traction) truck situations.

As long as the RPM difference between the 2 wheels is less than about 150 RPM, no posi action whatsoever occurs; it is basically an open diff. Those 2 little weights on those little tiny shafts are how this is measured. When the RPM difference exceeds 150 RPM, the weights fly out, and lock the thing up solid. Not exactly a recipe for good driver control, is it?

Keep that whole train of events firmly in your mind: NO POSI ACTION OCCURS until AFTER a wheel starts spinning. Then at that point it locks up with a bang.

Which is of course, exactly what happens. If you take it out of its 4-cyl truck in the mud that it was designed for, and put some serious power to it and get some traction, then what will happen is, you'll be at the red light or start line or whatever, stomp the gas, one wheel will start to spin, and all the sudden, BANG! And the bang might include the whole thing exploding, LITERALLY; one guy on here posted pics years ago of his, which failed with so much force, the shrapnel not only went through the cover, but also, into the gas tank. Go visit the truck forums and read people's tales of woe and enjoy the pics of the carnage.

So yeah, this belongs in that large and wonderful class of things that: sure, you can do it, but just because it's possible, doesn't automatically make it a good idea.

bigtizzles

bought a set of used 3rd gen 28 spline axles and an Auburn posi unit out of a 99 Z28 with 61K on it, the whole contents of the rear end. What else am I gonna need to install it?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What gears have you got now?

What series is your new carrier?

Does it work?

Ron U.S.M.C.

At least this,
Master bearing kit = $90.00
Axel bearings and seals = $30.00
Installation/labor = $300 (estimate)

bigtizzles

The one in my car is open 2.77 i believe, the new Auburn is a 3 series with 3.42's on it. Yeah it works and its out of a low mile car, the axles are in good condition as well, out of a 90 camaro.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Can't be 2.77; that's a 9-bolt ratio.

Might be 2.73. In which case, no that carrier won't work with your gears, because your gears are 2 series, and the carrier is 3 series.

You can get a spacer or "special" "thick" gears to add space to a 2 series carrier to put 3 series gears on it; but unless you kow where you can get gears with NEGATIVE thickness, or a spacer that TAKES SPACE OUT instead of PUTTING SPACE IN, no way to go the other way.

bigtizzles

Thats why I got gears. I got the entire contents of the rear end.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Then you'll need a "master kit", and some fluids.

I HIGHLY recommend getting an extra pair of pinion bearings, and using a crush sleeve eliminator instead of a crush sleeve. You can put the same size shim on the pinion because gears are VERY precise but housings are NOT. When assembling a rear, you're not really "shimming the gears"; you're actually shimming THE HOUSING. If you imagine a perfectly aligned set of gears out in space somewhere, and then a completely randomly machined housing being hung all around them, you'll understand the process MUCH better.

bigtizzles

what is the difference in the newer 99 and up Auburn LSD as opposed to the 98 and down. Mine is out of a 99 Z28 and should be a torsen, right? Is it better or worse than the earlier ones found in the 4th gen. Does it still use the clutch cones? Can you change them without tearing it down?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

98-up should be a Zexel Torsen, which is a gear type of deal with no clutches.

The difference is, it has a chance of working for a few years, whereas the Auburn is a POS that wears out and can't be repaired.

No the Zexel doesn't use clutches.

No the Auburn can't have its clutches replaced without tearing it down; because (a) the clutches are inside it and are too big to come out the "window", and (b) Auburn doesn't supply replacement parts for them anyway.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Just out of curiosity what LSD is this.

HankL69

iTrader: (1)

X2. I have seen those units with the s shaped spring but not sure exactly what they are.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

If memory serves that's an old Dana product.

Post a pic of the logo. Anything that looks like it might be a logo.

Look how thin the metal that the carrier proper is made out of is.

bigtizzles

is the Zexel Torsen still made by Auburn? If its out of a 99 camaro, it must be the torsen style, correct? Did they come with any other diffs?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The 98 standard was an auburn. The SLP installed option was a Torsen (not sure if it was a T-2 or what)

'99-up was a standard Torsen; the option was a HD Auburn.

bigtizzles

was the optional auburn HD any better than the previous standard ones?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not that I know of... the one I had, didn't last 5000 miles before it screwed up, in a COMPLETELY unrepairable way.

I knew the stock ones were kinda weeeeeeek, but I had high hopes for this "high-perf" one I picked up used. Paid maybe $150 for it, looked OK at the time, thought that wasn't too bad.

The driver's side end, that the bearing presses onto, is a big sort of plate thing that threads into the main body of the carrier, and has some pins staked into it to keep it from backing back out. (yeah I know, .... WEENIE .... not my idea I assure you) Well after a while it started kinda vibtating real strange; it would vibe sometimes, not others, whine this way or that according to no particular pattern, ... completely weird. I popped off the cover and looked at it a couple of times, never could figure it out. Then about the 3rd or 4th time, I was DETERMINED to figure out what its issue was; ended up taking it out; turns out, the big threads where it screwed together, weren't tight any more. The bearing part would more or less sit still in the housing but the bulk of the carrier was free to flop around probably .030" or so.

So I called Auburn to see what I could do. They told me parts were no longer available for such an "old" unit (would have been around 7 - 8 yrs old at the time) and there was nothing they could do. Their attitude was, what's wrong with me, I expect a hot-rod part to actually LAST and be SERVICEABLE?

I threw it in the trash, bought and installed an Eaton NOT a Grenade-Bomb, and don't plan on ever participating in the Auburn scam again.