warrior102

i got this t56 from my local junk yard and installed it into my 86 camaro that originally had a 700r4 and it was making a strange noise almost like when you spin a ratchet slowly from a dead stop under load then goes away and happens again in second then goes away and it didn't want to go into 6th so easy i figured the thing needs a rebuild so i got a master kit from the gear box and took it apart
before doing so i checked the main and counter shafts for play and sure enough there was .005 of free play on the main and .002 on the counter shaft so i changed all the bearings and races including the input pocket bearing the race on the input shaft is a **** btw and set all the preloads to .003 i installed a 3-4 steel shift fork and new 1-2 syncro assy new clutch fork and pivot along with another new clutch just so i could rule it out as the culprit i put that sumbtch back in and now it shifts great but still makes that ratcheting noise is this noise normal am i chasing a ghost

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If you set all three shim specs to .003 pre-load you might want to re-read the Tremec rebuild manual. That's triple the pre-load spec in total on the countershaft set. That has potential for shift issues on 5-6.

.005 endplay on the mainshaft doesn't mean a bearing is junk; was it scored or the race worn-in?

warrior102

The manual says preload should be .000 to .002 and after speaking to a couple of builders I was told to shoot for .003 if I'm changing all the bearings if you re-read my post. I said the tranny shifts good after the rebuild no issues there but I still have the same strange noise I'm looking for help not criticism this isn't my first time rebuilding a manual trans

jmd

iTrader: (4)

I don't need to re-read your post. You indicated .003 pre-load.
Mainshaft and counter extension are specified as end-play. The countershaft is specified as pre-load.

If your countershaft was set to .003 pre-load and your countershaft extension was set to .003 pre-load that's .006 pre-load across the counter-shaft set. If you meant end-play and not pre-load in your earlier posts, that would be where the alarm and "criticism" comes from.

Please don't get butt hurt. I've built T56s and T5s over 10 years and have a fondness for 1986 Chevrolets with 3.73 posi and T56s.

warrior102

Lmao butt hurt good one I set the counter shaft to.003 then the aux to. 003 so your right do you think its way to much preload or will it be OK its not causing any issues as far as shifting my main concern is that weird noise

jmd

iTrader: (4)

.003 pre-load on the countershaft will be fine; spec is .000 to .002 pre-load

.003 pre-load on the counter-extension is .005 over spec; too much.
.003 pre-load on the mainshaft is .005 over spec; to much.
Those two will also make it a real chore to spin the shafts on the bench.

So... maybe you meant end-play? Because I still don't know which you did..

warrior102

what i did was idiotic i set the main,counter and aux to .003 preload the tranny spun nice and free by hand in 1 through 4th but a little tighter in 5 and 6 i just figured it was due to the change in ratios do you think i could get away with leaving the main shaft as is and puling the tail housing off in the car and replacing the shim with one thats .005 smaller man i screwed up i guess its like that saying goes it doesnt cost any thing to pay attention but it does not do

jmd

iTrader: (4)

If you're 100% positive you did .003 pre-load x 3, you can pull the tail to re-shim there without disassembly much. Then...

If you put the tail back on and set the trans. tail down in a 5gal. bucket, you can pull the front plate without going through the usual disassembly. It's just a bit of a pain aligning the 5-6 shift rail into it's hole in the front plate. But, with the 2 guide rails in place, the rails won't fall out of place.

Shouldn't be too bad.

warrior102

thanks for pionting out my mistake JMD im going to pull the trans back out this weekend and re-do all the shims hopefully i didnt ruin the new bearings but as far as that noise goes would a bent 1-2 shift fork cause it because the syncro sleave was a little mashed up thats why i changed it and the fork pads looked ok so i didnt susspect a bent fork i changed all the bearings not because they had damage but because they had to be some what worn if there was exsessive play and i got the master kit so why not change them

warrior102

ok so i pulled the transmission out after work had it out in under an hour when i took the tail shaft off there was some metal fuzz on the magnets already after only 20 miles second gear has some back and forth play on the main shaft it was like that when i took it apart the first time and im sure some one has already been inside this thing before because origionaly the 5-6 syncro hub was not lined up corectly with the keys that was my shifting into 6th problem now im wondering if thrust washers 26 and 38 are two different thickesses and were put in wrong by whom ever installed the 5-6 syncro incorectly i put every thing back on the main shaft in the same order i took them off