Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

I want to swap my Turbo 400 for a T56 Magnum. I do not want to run a hydralic throw-out bearing. My question is what type of clutch cable do I use? Is there a universal cable that I would use? My buddy has a firewall adjuster for his trans in his Mustang, is there anything like that for Thirdgens?

Also, does anyone have any experience with SFI scattershields? Just wondering if any of them provide more clearance than others. Not sure if it is even an issue bc a JW SFI bellhousing fits in the tunnel just fine. Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Cable clutches weren't used in third gens so unless you wanted to use Monza bellhousing or fabricate pedals....

You could run an adapter plate (similar to the aftermarket T56 used) and the correctly pilot bearing or bushing to support the maindrive (input) shaft. This is the method used to run the LS1 T56 behind Gen I SBC and BBCs.

That would allow you to go with a standard Muncie pattern bellhousing or third gen T5 bellhousing or the compatible scattershield.

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry I probably should have specified what engine I'm bolting this trans to. It's a Brodix 400 block with a two piece rear main seal. I was just planning on buying a SBC T56 scattershield and a 153 or 168T aluminum flywheel. I just didn't really want to deal with a hydralic clutch, but I guess I may not have a choice. Is there anyway to modify a factory 3rd or 4th gen pedal assembly to work with a cable clutch?

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

Is this something that may work with a cable clutch??

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/82...kagenewgm.aspx

jmd

iTrader: (4)

That's for a bellcrank "Z-bar" mechanical linkage setup.


These are for Mustang cable release setup.



If you add that bellcrank setup to pedals that fit your third gen, you can have cable release. It's going to be a fair amount of work to put the cable where it will work with the firewall of a third-gen.

There are Ford transmisions like the Cobra T56 or I think a Ford Magnum with a cable clutch release ballstud on the front of the trans.

Lotsa work. Let us know how it goes. I did a mechanical clutch linkage 95 T56 a while back so it's too bad you're not local.
Maybe do the cable quadrant (from the right side of those Mustang pedals) to a bellcrank like the GM one you linked to. We await your progress.

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

Ok it seems like a hydralic setup is going to have to do. I read the T56 swap sticky and have a pretty good understanding on what is needed in order for this to work.

From what I understand, the LT1 style T56 is going to fit with the most amount of ease, correct? I guess I'm a little confused. It seems like the new T56 Magnum is setup to bolt to an LS-style motor. I'm thinking I could possibly just have a LT-style T56 built to the same specifications to work the easiest in my thirdgen. That way I would just have to buy the fourth gen pedals, slave/master, slave cylinder spacer, and fork? This is the only part that confuses me. Then I would have to buy a two piece rear main seal motor to LT1 style T56 flywheel (like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-2555/) and scattershield? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just a bit confused!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The LT1 T56 works well for third gens, especially those with a T5 already since driveshaft works, 1997 hydraulics bolt right in, the flywheel bolts right in to any 86-up engine and you can "get by" with the stock pedals. In your case where none of that is relevant, it's less advantageous to go w/ the LT1 T56.

Secondly, the Magnum T56 is not a T56. It's a TR6060 internally (gears, synchros and most other internals interchange with the 2008 and newer transmissions. So going with a built LT1 T56 is a perfectly viable option for you and would work well with a 427cid engine. But, if you're shifting at very high RPM, launching hard on slicks you might benefit from looking at options with multiple friction surface synchronizers or larger mainshaft. If you're just going to shift at 6000 and drive on the street, you'll be happy with that LT1 T56.

A Quicktime 6023PB scattershield lets you run an LS T56 or the Magnum "T56" with a mechanical fork; a 6023 lets you run the LS T56 with it's hydraulic throwout bearing.

What else are the goals and specs of your car / project?

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently shifting my Turbo 400 at about 6700-6800 RPM, so I would diffinitely want a transmission that will work well at that RPM range. The car will mostly see street driving, I do plan on taking it to the track every now and then.

I also want a transmission with some room for growth. I have plans down the road for possibly a power adder of some sort.

This may sound like a dumb question, but are all of the Magnums (for the Viper, Cobra, ZR1) the same (input shaft, case, case length)? Is it just the bellhousing that makes up for the correct spacing between the motor/clutch and transmission? I'm really not that familiar with manual transmissions other than factory setups.

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

Will a factory slave/master work for this trans or should I go with all aftermarket pieces? I'm really lost with what work with this type of tranmission bc it doesn't seem like there is too much info. out there about swapping one into a thirdgen.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The key fitment questions can be answered with the dimensions and the front clutch/ input setup.

Google TRMC_R3_0210_198.pdf - that has dimensions.

With regard to depth, input length, pilot bearing use, and slave cylinder, the front is set up just like a 98-02 LS F-body T56.

So to your question, yes factory will work. But, you seem like you want to explore all options. But, getting away from stock type stuff just gets really ridiculous in time and expense. So...

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I would have to actually end up using a 98-02 hydralic system like this?

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ca...ndernewgm.aspx

The reason why I wanted to look into aftermarket parts is because I'm afraid that the release and engagement won't be where I want it in the pedal actuation (if that makes any sense). In other words, I don't want the clutch to engage extremely high in the pedal stroke and vise versa.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Available Ram, Tick and McLeod master cylinders have adjustable pushrods. That can adjust the release distance from the floor.
The Tick is larger bore than stock; McLeod might be. That shortens necessary pedal travel for clutch release.
The Tick uses a Tilton cylinder which is probably available in different bore sizes, which could be used to lengthen or shorten pedal travel.
They're just simple hydraulics and every problem has a solution. Some to be bought, some to be made.

Rickj350RS

iTrader: (1)

Ok sounds good! So, the slave cylinder does not actuate a clutch fork with this setup? Would a factory slave like this one be sufficient?

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-sl...or-ls1-f-body/

So basically, I would need a flywheel for a Gen 1 SBC, a clutch kit for an LS Camaro/Corvette, the LS-style master and slave cylinders, and an Gen 1 SBC to LS-style T56 bellhousing/scattershield and a fourth-gen pedal set?

Thanks for all the help and great advice by the way!