peicheff

so i just got my clutch system bled and whats happening is the fork moves just over a half inch and when i turn the car on it wont shift into gear still

on my pedal it pushes down about 1/4 of the way and then begins to work, could this just be air in my lines?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What's the history here?

peicheff

been trying to bleed it and this is as far as i can get. not sure what you mean

ive followed the proper clutch bleeding process that i found on thirdgen and im still not getting enough travel on my fork for the clutch to disengage. just reading up on it...would adjusting my pivot ball help disengage ? (not sure if its WC or not, havent taken a look at the pivot ball either to even see if i can adjust it)

peicheff

also wondering if my pilot bushing could be a tight fit on the input shaft causing it to spin the trans in neutral and not allowing me to shift...if so how is that fixable?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Possible. You would replace the pilot bearing.

What happened that made you decide you should bleed it?

nomind

I'd check the pivot ball (should be a star bit on the passenger side, IIRC). I had an issue where I thought my used hydraulics were not working correctly. Replace the master and slave cylinders as a unit with one from GM (pre-bled, just bolt in and go), and my clutch was still not fully disengaging. Started looking around, and the bolt in question was almost all the way backed out. Ran it back down, and no more problem.

1320_Guy

iTrader: (3)

Try starting it in gear with the clutch pushed in. If it moves then you got something wrong. If not everything should work fine after, maybe the pilot bushing was a little tight.

peicheff

its all working now, just needed some convincing

IROC4U

what was the problem im having issues as well

peicheff

at first my clutch fork was not on the pivot ball all the way, and afterwards it was air in the system. i had my resevoir mounted too far away and afterwards when i saw a picture of the stock 5 speed mounting bracket off of the brake booster i made one the same and it seemed to work enough to disengage the clutch.

IROC4U

iv tried everything with my car and still nothing shifts when i jack it up doesnt shift when i turn the key really fd up adj the pivot ball way out nothing bled the slave nothing.....ideas install was easy to i have the new gm tko 3550 using a lakewood bell it alligns to the engine dowel pins so theres no way i can adjust bell housing allignment and the clutch is in correct it could only go one way on mine hays flywheel and clutch disc pressureplate sorry to hijack your post ha i need fin help oh and car seems to want to try and move foward if i try to put it in gear while running and reverse is a grind fest

IROC4U

ok i got it to go into gear not all gears but 3 gears 2nd 3rd and 4th but no 5th and no reverse and no 1st reverse still a grind fest i took out the hydrolic rod and fabricated a longer one because the pivot ball is maxed out im going to extend the rod again and see what happens they dont go in easy but they do go in.... unlike before with the smaller rod

rs89todd

my car did that after i replaced the pilot bushing, so i had to pull it off and hit it with a a hammer and my tool for doing it, and its good to go now

1989irocz28

i recently replaced my slave cylinder and master cylinder and now my clutch wont disengage at all. i have tried bleeding the system several times and the clutch fork looks like it moves about a half inch but the pedal doesnt feel like it used to. i swapped out the hydraulics because the shaft that goes from the master cylinder to the clutch pedal was bent. everything worked perfectly before and now im not sure how to fix it