hasty88-and-89

i heard of getting 3.43 first then 3.73 now 4.10 what shouldf i get i believe my car has 3.14 or somthing along those lines

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Depends. What are your goals for the car? I'd either go with 3.42, or 3.73's for most street driven cars. (If its the Borg Warner rear end the gear ratios are slightly different.)

hasty88-and-89

trying to make my lo3 fast
but what diffrent goals i could achieve i dont understand and what u mean by borg warner will be diffrent
cant i take the real axle from and v6 fbody or the l69

KNBlazer

personally if you are going to stay with an oem powertrain, then the highest I'd go would be 3.42, but if you are going to do some future mods, then probably 3.73, this way at least it will still be drivable on the road...

hasty88-and-89

3.73 sound the best how much is a new powertrain?

KNBlazer

it all depends what you're gonna do with it... mildly built 350 would probably run you about 4K or so ... a 383 stroker will run you approximately 10-15K with various mods you will need to perform in order to handle the power... this rough estimate could as well cover the beefing up of the tranny...

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

By powertrain he means engine and transmission. If your only goal is to make the stock engine perform a little better than there is no sense in going beyond 3.42 gears. On the other hand if you want to swap in a different engine then going to 3.73's would be a good idea.

hasty88-and-89

thats what u mean by power
train the engine i though u meant drive shaft any other mods/upgrades needed for putting 3.73's on my car?

KNBlazer

a 3.73 you can put in with probably no modification, however, you will end up with a lighter wallet and maybe a few tenths of your launch... you may notice better response up hills... other than that don't know... in order to get the most out of your 3.73, you would have to build up the engine...

hasty88-and-89

just the engine or hp and torque itself?

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

That's basically it. As for building up the engine that gets into another can of worms. Namely, what do you want to do with the car? Do you intend to race it on the track or street? (Not that I condone street racing.) Are you wanting just a bit more than what the stock engine offers? Is this a daily driver or a hobby car? You may be happy with headers and the usual bolt-ons. What are your general expectations for this car ultimately?

hasty88-and-89

too beat them gay *** turbo 4bangers......nah
street race trying to reach around 300rwhp
i got 3 cars 4cylinder v6 and v8 so i wouldent say DD but it is registered
and drive bout 50 miles a week

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

I don't know much about the L03, but as I understand it 300RWHP out of them is a fairly tall order. I don't think you'll get close from bolt-ons. You'll need a new cam, work on the heads (or new heads) and work on the intake. And honestly, if it comes to that I'd drop in a 350. 350 engines can be had for next to nothing if you shop around. You may need to get machine work done on it but you'd have to do that either way to reach your goals.

hasty88-and-89

you think it would cost more to do all that then to swap to a 350tbi?
i do not know how to swap an engine though and what do you mean machine work done to a 350 like what?
( sorry im just learning bout these beautiful beasts)

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

You need a certain amount of bolt-ons anyway to support the power you want to make. That means headers and exhaust at a minimum. You'll want to change the rear end gears as well. This is true whether you keep the 305 or swap in a 350.

On the subject of swaps, unless you buy the engine new or re-manufactured, it will be a used engine with potentially two hundred thousand miles or more on it. And if you get the engine from a junk yard or from anyone who sells an engine that was simply pulled from a working vehicle then you'll need to either have the engine taken apart and inspected or do most of that yourself. In any case it never hurts to have the engine taken to a machine shop and freshened up or rebuilt entirely before spending the time and effort to install it in the car. You can build up your existing engine but it still has to come out and you'd have to get machine work done on the heads, get a new cam installed, etc. The same money always buys you more power on a 350 vs. any 305. Its not that the 305 is a terrible engine, its not, but it never gained the support of the 350. While the two engines are virtually the same outside of bore size, parts such as heads, cams, etc aren't generally optimized for making power out of the 305. And again all things being equal, when you put the same parts on a 305 vs. a 350, the 350 will always win hands down. Its got more displacement.

AsAnthony

Is your car a 5spd? Mine is and I had a 3.23 stock and last year I changed for a 3.73 and noticed a big difference in acceleration.(I don't do all that much highway driving)

Yesterday I finished swapping in 4.10s that I got out of an S10 and once again I notice a good difference in acceleration. I find the 4.10s perfect for around town and still with 5th not bad on the highway at all. I go 80kph(50mph) at 1800rpm. (235/60 15 tires)

I don't understand why everyone is talking about the 4.10s not being streetable unless your engine is modded. Think of it like a bicycle, the lower the gear the better the acceleration regardless of power put in. The only downfall is that you'll be revving higher which sucks more gas and limits your top end speed but if you want acceleration you're probably willing to pay the gas.

Also check out these calculators:
https://www.thirdgen.org/calculations

It's and easy way to figure out what rpm you'll be turning with different gears.

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

I've got 4.10's on a stock engine as well. I wouldn't have done that more than likely, but that's the way the previous owner had configured the car before I got it. Or at least, one of the previous owners. I find acceleration to be excellent, but yeah I run higher RPMs on the highway as a result of that. Still gas mileage does not concern me as this is not a daily driver. I think 4.10's are very streetable, but some people don't like the trade offs for having gears like that. 3.73's or 3.42's are still probably better all around gears. Then again it depends on what you are doing with the car.

hasty88-and-89

my car is not a dd but bout 50 miles a week MAYBE also
trying to reach round 300 rwhp i will swap the 305 for a 350 later or an lt1
what could i invest in that could go onto a lt1 or 350?

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about the LT1. I'd avoid them because of their optispark system and frankly I don't think they have enough advantages over an SBC, plus they seem to have a smaller aftermarket than either the SBC or LSx engines do. As for the 350, headers and exhaust come to mind. Cold air intakes (most of which have to be custom made) will work for both engines as well. The Ultimate TBI mods would also work on both engines.

Search this site for the Ultimate TBI mods. I don't know much about TBI but supposedly you can get a decent amount of extra performance for basically nothing.

hasty88-and-89

wtf is a optispark hahahaa
how much$$$ to get a 350tbi cleaned/rebuilt OR how hard to rebild and how much is it then?

87WS6

iTrader: (1)

Most years of the LT1 engine used the Optispark system instead of a traditional distributor cap and rotor. The Optispark (or Optisuck) system is notoriously unreliable. As for rebuilding an engine that's going to vary based on the condition of the engine. A typical rebuild of a stock Vortec style 350 was quoted to me for about $600-$700 at various places. As for doing it yourself, well that's not going to be possible. You need all the equipment of a machine shop and the expertise to use it. If you don't then I wouldn't think about it. You can do what I did and get a block already machined with nothing in it so you can assemble it yourself but that will run you about the same amount of money. The reason I did it that way is so I could save a few bucks and go with all forged parts of my choice rather than whatever the engine builder/seller had chosen.

Atilla the Fun

4.10:1 with a T5 is entirely different from trying 4.10:1 with 700R-4.
Firstly, your t5 has a 0.625:1 fifth, while the 700R-4 is 0.696:1 fourth.
Second, your T5 has a 2.952:1 first with no torque converter, while a 700R-4 has a 3.059:1 first with a torque converter. Until you try it both ways, you cannot understand. Suffice it to say that a 3.73:1 with a 700R-4 is the closest equivalent to your 4.10:1 / T5 combo.
And both are really pushing your luck with a stock LO3.

hasty88-and-89

so ur sayinf 3.73's for auto and 4.10 for stick is pushing it bout
3.42 for autos and 3.73's for t5