robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

I finally got me a brand new Eaton posi unit last month and I want to swap the damn thing in. I've been wanting to get rid of the powertax locker for quite awhile now. Here's my questions.....

1. Can I just replace the carrier bearings during the swap?

2. If my axle seals are still good can I reuse them?

3. If I use the same shims that were on each side will the back lash be close to the same?

4. Do I have to worry about the pinion if I'm just replacing the carrier?

5. Do I have to use loctite on the bolts that hold the ring gear? Do I have to torque them down to a specific foot pound?

I did a search and I couldn't quite find what I was looking for, any help would be awesome.

Dustytrix

iTrader: (3)

If you are using the same gear that went with the pinion it will be ok. The shims might get you close but you would still need to check the lash, and will most likely need more or less shims.If the seals are ok I would leave them be. Yes you need to torque the gear to the carrier And I dont recall the ft lbs right now but I think its around 70, let me know if you cant find it and I will get it for you.

big gear head

Read this. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19773

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

I would replace the carrier and the wheel bearings while you have the axles out. Same with the axle seals, you might as well, they are cheap. You can use the same shims side to side to start with, but you definitely need to check the lash and most likely you will have to change the shims around. The pinion can be left alone if you are keeping the same gears, you probably won't want to mess with the crush sleeve on the pinion anyways. And yes, you need loctite.

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

I bought a solid pinion spacer to replace the crush sleeve, IIRC it helps make the diff stronger. I figured I might as well go ahead and do a full rebuild. How do I go about installing it?

mh82camaro

yeah your ok...i did the same thing with my car.i installed a 4.10 gears and drove it open wheeled...then a year later added a eaton posi. just pull caps...make sure put them on same way. put shims back way they were....shouldn't have problem due to new carrier is same size. just install new bearings on carrier...leave seals....but i suggest changing them....its so easy and cheap....do it now or later....leave pinion alone. and you should be ok bud...my was fine...only time you hae to mess with shims was changing gears

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

To change out the crush sleeve for a solid spacer on the pinion, you need to remove the pinion. In order to take the pinion out, the carrier has to come out first, i.e. pulling the axles, removing the carrier bearing caps, prying the carrier out, catching all of the shims and saving them. You need to buy/acquire/fabricate a tool to hold the yoke in place, I've used a plate with four holes drilled into it (for the four bolts that hold the u-joint in place) with a big hole to put a socket on the nut at the back of the flange. On one of the edges of the plate was a pipe that was about three feet long. Then you take a big breaker bar and loosen the nut on the pinion. Once that nut is off, you pull the yoke free (may need some love from a dead-blow hammer) and the pinion "should" come out of the housing. To re-install, you just put the spacer in place of the crush sleeve along with all of the bearings. IF you have gone this far, there is no excuse not to replace all of the bearings and the axle and pinion seals. You need a dial indicator inch-pound torque wrench to set the proper pinion pre-load, if you don't use one your bearings will probably go bad within a few miles. After your pinion is in place, you can put the carrier back in place. With this much work you might as well install a locker/limited slip if you weren't planning on it already, however I believe you said that you were planning on putting a eaton in there. With the carrier in, you need to set the gear mesh pattern and set the backlash. Do not do like mh82camaro and just put the shims back in place without checking, you will more than likely destroy the gears. Perhaps mh82camaro got lucky with his gear and posi swap, but I recommend that you check and adjust if needed. To check the backlash, you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator. After you set the gear pattern by moving the shims side to side, you set up the dial indicator against the ring gear and rock the ring gear against the pinion. You adjust the backlash by moving the shims again, periodically checking to ensure that you don't get your wear pattern didn't get disturbed. After your wear pattern and the backlash is set, then you add a few shims to preload the bearings. Once this is done, you reinstall the axles, fill with fluid and then you should be done.

I will say this though, I will always recommend that if the carrier comes out that you need to check the wear pattern and the backlash even if you are reusing what was previously installed. If you are installing a new carrier, you absolutely need to check.

And one last note, I was ASE certified, and will never do this again. Honestly I would pay someone to do this headache for me. You need a few specialty tools that most people have, and even fewer use often enough to justify the cost.

thomas1976

1. yes
2. yes
3. in most cases yes, always werify tooth pattern and adjust if necessary
4. in most cases not, same as abowe
5. a little drop of loctite does not hurt. "in progressive stages to 120 Nm (89 lb. ft.)"

- and a drop of loctite on the lock screw "36 Nm (27 lb. ft.)"

Crush sleave works perfectly and is easier.

From reserch, other things disintegrate mostly, before the solid pinion spacer does any good.

Use mineral oil with limitted slip additive, syntetic makes noise in corners.

mh82camaro

no buddy....i did adjust the shims (backlash)the first time i removed the the gear set to change gears...then i added a locker which was the same exact size as the stock unit and it was basically lined up the same backlash.....he isn't changing gears....only carrier...you can buy a tool from summit for 35.00..and i rec checking it..but i think you will be pretty damn close....anyhow

thomas1976

I have worked on a dozen rear ends, I pointed out in most cases because on a 2000 z28 with just a complet bearings swap shims were needed to adjust the carrier.

mh82camaro

yeah i have done alot of rear ends myself....from chevy to dodge to heavy duty trucks.... i am just saying he will be in the ball park...thats all ......i still recommend checking the gear mesh pattern and doing a dial indicator test.....but if he is just taking out the stock carrier and adding a eaton unit...using the same gears but with new bearings...he will be in the ball park...to start with old shims ...then add ...as needed....

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Well I've got the Eaton in and I absolutely love it!! no more pops and bangs or binds going into turns. I had quite the surprise when I pulled the drain plug off of my cover before the swap. Little yellow springs from the locker started coming out with the fluid!!! one looked like it went through the gears, luckily the gears are still in good shape. I still want to replace the pinion bearings and install the solid spacer but it's not a huge issue right now. I did replace the axle bearings and seals while I had everything apart. I did get lucky and I was able to reuse the shims and it set my backlash EXACTLY as it was with the regular carrier. I'll post pics of my gear pattern tonight after work.