Working on a T56
#1
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Car: Camaro IROC Z-28 1987
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Working on a T56
Well I never opened a T56....if I diced to do myself to upgrande forks, syncros, and maybe replace or flip the gears on a T56 how hard really is?
Any special tools?
If I get a guide will show step by step how do do it?
Tks
Any special tools?
If I get a guide will show step by step how do do it?
Tks
#3
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Car: 2006 Chevrolet 2500HD
Engine: Duramax
Transmission: Allison 1000
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Working on a T56
It is not bad if you have decent mechanic skill. read up on it the most you can.
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Car: 91 rs
Engine: Blow through 383, 10 psi, xr288hr
Transmission: Manual th350 ATI 3000
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9"
Re: Working on a T56
If you don't ever plan on making a lot of power, then I would say go for it. But when they are put together better than stock, meaning better clearances, they can handle ALOT more power.
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Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Re: Working on a T56
Batass is right, tighter clearances are the way to go. The manual tells you to give some free play, but it's much better to preload the bearings about .0015. And do not forget the auxilary counter shaft when setting clearences. You have to make a tool to check it, but it's well worth it. I've read on here that a T56 is a noisy trans, well I guess it is if you have tons of clearance or didn't check or set it. Mine is as quite as my T5 ever was, and shifts like a dream. I went with carbon fiber syncros, steel 3/4 fork, billet 3/4 syncro keys, and brass fork pads all the way through the trans, and the Rockland Standard Gear long tail shaft bushing. Cost a little more to do this, but it was well worth it for me.
I'm going with a much bigger engine and before I did this I pulled the T5 and sold it to offset the cost of the T56. I figured the T5 wouldn't last long with another 100 ponies on the ground with the new motor, so sold it before I blew it into little pieces.
If you can change a cam, you can build a T56. Take your time and do it right. You will need a mic to measure the shims, and a dial indicator to check free play. There will also be a part of two you need pressed, but that's not a big deal to get that done.
I'm going with a much bigger engine and before I did this I pulled the T5 and sold it to offset the cost of the T56. I figured the T5 wouldn't last long with another 100 ponies on the ground with the new motor, so sold it before I blew it into little pieces.
If you can change a cam, you can build a T56. Take your time and do it right. You will need a mic to measure the shims, and a dial indicator to check free play. There will also be a part of two you need pressed, but that's not a big deal to get that done.
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Car: Camaro IROC Z-28 1987
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Working on a T56
Well I but a 1994 Formula with a supose bad motor but by the time we got to the car was just a broken starter that was a biiiiiiiiggggggggggg bonus....the car is not mint but its not worth it to part it out......so I am buying anothe T56 swap or at least trying LOL......
So before I drop in the car I wanted to change the commum things like forks, syncros and etc....I never worked in a T56 but in small VW trannies yes I did so I wonder if gonna be that much more complicated......
The motor is not a asphalt digger....but never now what tomorrow I want to do it....so I want to have something that can give me a little more opening for a upgrade with out the worries of my tranny no handleing..... So what parts i should or should not use it?
once again thanks............
So before I drop in the car I wanted to change the commum things like forks, syncros and etc....I never worked in a T56 but in small VW trannies yes I did so I wonder if gonna be that much more complicated......
The motor is not a asphalt digger....but never now what tomorrow I want to do it....so I want to have something that can give me a little more opening for a upgrade with out the worries of my tranny no handleing..... So what parts i should or should not use it?
once again thanks............
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Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
Re: Working on a T56
Have you looked at the T56 manual I posted the link to??? Shows the tool you need to check the counter shaft end play in figure 6-1.
I made mine a little simpler. I took a 16" length of 1/2" rod and turned down one end 3/4" long and threaded it M12 x 1.75 mm. You don't need to thread it on a lathe, just run it down to the proper diameter and use a die nut to cut the threads. Then on the other end I drilled a 3/16" hole in the rod at a 90 deg angle so I could use a small punch to tighten the rod into the counter shaft. All you need to have done is have the rod turned down, the rest can be done with hand tools and a drill. You can use aluminum or steel for the rod material.
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