jak2908

heres the story...the rear end in my car is out of an iroc with a 2.73 limited slip which is a series 2 carrier..so i acquired a series 3 carrier with 3.23's on it..took that ring gear off and i have a s10 with 3.73's in it..so i swapped the ring gears and continued to put the pinion in my housing (in car)...i got the pinion nut as tight as possible and i still have fore and aft play in the pinion... i was tightening with a breaker bar and jack...so im assuming im as tight as possible...whats going on? why do i have play???

DJP87Z28

Your should be a "Sticker' for what not to do on a gear change. Sounds like you just picked the parts that you like and tried to put the everything toghter, without knowning what you were doing. Good Luck

1brd2brd3brd4

Tight as you can is not the answer. sounds like you have a shimming issue, Did you use the shims from the 2:73 rear, 3:23 or 3:73 rear? Lotta things going on you more than likely did wrong.

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

Aren't crush sleeves involved as well in rear end pinion shimming? They are part of the backlash adjustment and can only be crushed once and then you have to throw them out and use another if you are off or have to take the assembly apart again to adjust and use another one. I'm not 100% sure when it comes to rear diff. stuff...I would buy a manual and follow the proper procedure.

big gear head

First of all a gear swap is not a simple bolt on. You are doing it like you are changing a cam or intake manifold. A ring & pinion set must be shimmed for the correct pinion depth, bearing preload and backlash. You can't just take gears out of one rear end and stick them in another and expect them to work right.

The reason that the pinion is loose is because the space between the pinion bearings in the housing that this gear came out of is greater than the space between the bearings in the housing that you are putting it in. The crush spacer needs to be crushed more. It takes about 300 foot pounds of torque on the nut to crush the spacer. You just aren't putting enough torque on the nut to crush it. But before you crush the spacer more you need to get the pinion depth set right. I also do not recommend using old bearings when setting up a set of gears. It is too hard to set the bearing preload with used bearings because the preload for used bearings is about 5 inch pounds and the seal will put almost that much drag on it. New bearings require about 18 inch pounds of preload, which is a much easier number to hit.

I'm also assuming that you didn't change the inner pinion bearing and that you are using the bearing from one rear end on the race from another rear end. You should never put a used bearing in a used race that were not originally used together.

When setting up a ring & pinion set you must know how to set the pinion depth, bearing preload and backlash. You also must know how to read the contact pattern so that you will know what adjustments need to be made to the pinion depth. Pinion depth and backlash must be set to within +/- .001 inch to get the correct pattern and make the gears last and run quiet.

jak2908

see what i dont understand is that i made the mistake of putting the 3.23 pinion in when i thought i had the 3.73 in..(stupid me) and i had no problem with tightening that one down to about 7 in lbs...and i've been using new crush sleeves

danandamy

Everything Big Gear has said is right on the money. This having been said, I got away with swapping my gears out and having them mesh up where I can use it, it whines but I only use it at the strip anyway. You are wasting your time trying to crush the sleeve with a break over bar. I used a bad *** impact wrench and even then had to hammer on it for a bit to get er done.

Dan

jak2908

well i tightened it with a breaker bar and a jack...so im sure its tight enough

C-Titan

iTrader: (2)

I have a spare rear end re-build kit str8 from summit if you want it... It comes with everything you need if you want to actually re-build your rear end the right way...

jak2908

what do you want for it?

supr_fly03

iTrader: (2)

Some crush sleeves sleeves can be a real bear. My Camaro is my side hobby as building rock crawlers is my main squeeze. I do gear installs all the time for my buddies. I have found the some crush sleeves are tough and others easy in the same axle. (try a 14 bolt FF GM some day) IN a crush sleeve axle the crush sleeve sets and maintains the pre-load on the pinion bearings. Most 44's on the other hand are shim style (izuzu/rodeo 44's are crush sleeve) and takes a few trys getting the shims right for pre-load, but the added benifit is you can take the yoke off without having to reset pre-load. (like replacing the pinion seal) If you can swing it, get a crush sleeve eliminater kit. I am pretty sure you can get them at Randy's ring and pinion. If you are having difficulty crushing the sleeve, compare the pinions and make sure they are the same and that the crush sleeves are similar. (height should be a little different, but same shape and diameter)