Paul_Hughes_87 T/A

i swapped in a t5 over the weekend and at first the clutch wouldnt engage. then we bled the clutch and it engaged but it did not adjust it engaged right at the floor. last night i was out driving and i pulled into a gas station and when i pressed the clutch i lost all hydralic pressure. I looked under the car and fluid was pissing out of the slave. my question is what happened and do i need too change the entire assembly or the slave and if it is the slave how do i change it

thank you

Paul

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1987 Trans AM

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t5 swap
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Paul_Hughes_87 T/A

one more thing how easy is it to switch to cable clutch

lonsal

iTrader: (2)

You can replace the slave only, but I've not heard of good results. It will also need to be bled. I recommend swapping the entire master/slave for a new GM unit. But first find out why the old one blew out. Is the clutch fork the correct one? V6 & V8 are different length. Is the fork over center? The end where the slave cylinder presses should be level or slighly lower in relation to the end pressing the throwout bearing. Think of a teeter-totter. If the end with the slave cylinder is already too far out the slave cylinder will puke its guts when you engage the clutch. Some have solved this by fabricating a longer rod from a bolt and replacing the stock one. This is a bandaid, but works. There are also throwout bearings that are thicker. It doesn't take much to correct the problem. You do not want to convert to the old style cable clutch unit. The firewall on those cars were reinforced to take the extra pressure. Yours isn't.

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Paul_Hughes_87 T/A

the seal broke in the old slave

99Hawk120

Your slave just bit it. That happens. (Assuming it wasn't too new).

I'd get the entire brand new setup from GM. If you get a fourthgen ('93-'97) setup it works fine and you get a nifty braided steel line to go with it. Plus it was a little cheaper.

sunbound

why swap the whole thing out?

jon