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700-R4 trying to shift at 8500 RPM w/TPI

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Old 09-22-2001, 06:08 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
700-R4 trying to shift at 8500 RPM w/TPI

OK, I cannot get my 700-R4 to shift any lower than that at WOT. I can tell because as it approaches 7k, I let off and it takes a second to upshift back into higher gear. It tried to downshift into first at like 35-40. I adjusted the TV cable and played with the governor springs with no success. I changed them and trimmed the stock springs a little like the tranny shop advised me to...I'm not a completely illierate tranny guy, but I want to get an idea of what to hunt for before dropping the pan. Otherwise it shifts fine, slips alittle in the 2-3 upshift at 2/3-3/4 throttle. 1/2 is still crip but the shift points all over are too damn high!!!The downshifts are really too responsive, too! Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

Engine is an '89 L98 with plenum porting and all cheap/free mods, runs well...don't want to keep trying the WOT upshift for lack of desire of grenading a perfectly good 350...

Old 09-23-2001, 04:14 PM
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Sounds like the all too familiar hung Throttle Valve in the Valve Body. A pressure gauge will confirm this but does it seem to clunk into gear harder than usual? That would be another indication of a problem due to the high line pressure also caused by this. Now a missadjusted TV Cable can do this too so do this: To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the D button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting. Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the D button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does. Now LEAVE the cable there and DON'T change it. You are DONE with that part. Anything else is either a broken cable or internal.


[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited September 23, 2001).]
Old 09-23-2001, 07:15 PM
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
8500 rpm in a TPI car? That's funny!
Old 09-23-2001, 09:34 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Funny? Tell me about it. Can you say 'valve float'?

I guess I'll check into the throttle valve...maybe it's sticking or something...I had a B&M assembly manual but I cannot find it...do you know where to get the valve body schematics?

I'll also sync the cable to WOT...maybe that'll help the problem, I dunno. I would be happy if it shifted at 4500-5000 at WOT, so I could up the WOT shift RPM's with the shifter if I needed to...we'll see tomorrow.

Anyone know where to get the valve body pics/schematics?
Old 09-24-2001, 03:55 AM
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Try this: http://www.transonline.com/electroPu...fm?pageID=2435
Old 09-24-2001, 01:20 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
OK, kickass, thanks dude! That reminded me!

Anyone here know of amy mods that can be done to stiffen a 1/2 and 2/3 shift while I'm there besides a shift kit? I love shifts that chirp tires...my other 700-R4 was built to shift harder during manual upshift, pretty cool...

I gotta go on a date tonight but I'll be looking into it...thanks for all your help
Old 09-24-2001, 05:19 PM
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Do you want it to last or just pop on the shifts? If you want it to last get the TransGo Stuff.
Old 09-25-2001, 10:08 PM
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Next time it hangs up try letting off the pedal all the way and SLAMMING it to the floor a few times quickly (BAMBAMBAM!) but don't over rev it.

Or disconnect the TV cable and see if it shifts any earlier (NOT recommended for long term use).

Sounds internal to me, maybe the valvebody is full of junk.

How's the fluid look?

Slippage/stuck valves usually mean toasted clutches.

Good Luck,

JK
Old 09-25-2001, 10:40 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
I'm going to drop the pan and valve body tomorrow to inspect it...and clean it throughly while I'm there. I'll also check for debris and additional clutch residue since the last time I dropped the pan (not long ago). This thing has something badly wrong with it...if it all comes out good I'll have a TransGo shift kit and a Corvette servo put in it, as well as a B&M 3/4 upshift valve...well see what happens...

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