breathment

Ok, today i was going on an on ramp, and i decided to get on it, it was in 2nd, and i put it all the way down (which i hardley do , but i was boared..) well it hit about 5500 and about 65-70 MPH and didn't shift yet so i decided to let off since the speed limit was 60, well if shifted fine and everything, but i could smell a burning smell kinda, not too much, just a little. but i remember smelling this a couple years ago when my uncle had this car and got on it shifting at redline in first two gears. Well he had the tranny rebuilt about a year or two ago. anyways, after i smelt this, i noticed that everytime i got off the gas the TQ remained locked and would bring down the RPMS and slow down the car, and i touched the brake, and it seemed to not unlock. and then about a mile or two down the road, i let off the gas again and it seems to of unlocked, but as soon as the RPMs fell to 1500 it felt like it locked again and the car slowed. iv checked the tranny fluid a while back and it was kinda dark colored, and although it didn't smell burnt, (cause iv never known wut burnt tranny fluid smells like), but it didn't smell like fresh fluid, and it wasn't red or purple, more like brown, so Im curious if maybe the tranny is just getting tooooo hot, and therefore thats wuts causing it to burn?

any suggestions TRANSFIXLEO, i could use ur help, also, i replied to something u wrote in another one of my post, but u haven't replied yet, so i just thought i would remind ya, i know ur busy and all. but thanks alot for your help,

https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/004527.html

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series

transfixleo

I didn't sleep well so I may come back to this one but let me throw a couple of things out there. First, if the L/U doesn't disengage at all you will feel it right on top of the 1-2 shift engage since the 2nd oil is what feeds the L/U solenoid. Also, unless the tranny was changed (possible) your '88 should only have the ECM and solenoid to control L/U whereas the earlier 700's also had a shift valve assy that comes into play. That being said there could be a TPS signal problem if it isn't unlocking at coast (or possibly the solenoid is sticking but I don't see that much on these solenoids).

As for no shift at WOT it is possible that the band isn't holding under load or that the calibration doesn't match the engine. I would first readjust the TV and see if that makes a differentce (it shouldn't at WOT but it is worth a try): To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the D button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting. Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the D button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.