Max

I have always done a lot of manual downshifting and it has finally caught up with me. I've searched online and it sounds like I have trashed my overun clutch assembly. Probably the sprag.

I'm just starting to plan out the repair and I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with this type of repair. I'm planning to buy a transmision repair manual but for now I have a few questions:

How deep into the trans assembly is the overun clutch assembly?

Am I going to need any specialty tools to dis-assemble the transmision far enough to execute the repair?

Can I just replace the broken component and put it back together or is there likely to be a lot of debris spread throughout the transmision?

Vader

The forward sprag is inside the direct drum. You'll need to remove the trans, converter, pump, band anchor and band, and input drum. Then you can remove the direct clutches, input planetary set, and expose the forward sprag.



Shouldn't take you much more than 15 minutes....

BTW - There's a pretty good trans shop in Janesville, or at least, there used to be.

ed o

actually the forward sprag is in the input drum. the o.r. clutches ride on the overrun clutch hub which is connected to the forward sprag inner race held to it by a snapring. the pic is correct/the two clutches and steels on the upper right are the o.r. clutches. on the lower left is the forward sprag assy-which is supposed to turn one direction and lock the other. check it by turning it by hand and for closer inspection you could pull the snapring off but not necessary(it is important that it spins the correct direction). if it locks one direction it means it didn't roll(break). pull the trans. stand the trans up. pull the pan. pull the t.c.c. solenoid, pull the aux. tube from the pump, pull the pump bolts, pry the pump out with a small pry bar between the pump and reverse input drum(carefully!!!!!), pop the band loose off the band anchor with a screwdriver(it's easY), and pull out both drums together. the pic shows good. note;there is rubber in the aluminum drum-have a shop replace it as it will tear if you do it yourself(special tools). assemble in reverse order/parts,ump oring, pump gasket, pan gasket, two clutches o.r., two steels o.r., lip seals for the o.r.-3-4, and forward pistons, and possibly a new forward sprag if it rotated both directions free. if the clutches went bad there will be some debris,and if the sprag rolled(broke) it normally keeps the broken pieces in itself so no debris. p.s. i'd never go that fast in a convertible--are you crazzzzzzy?

Max

Thanks for you your replies. It sounds like a lot of work but it's not rocket science. I'm thinking about getting an instructional DVD. I watched a clip on youtube and it seemed like a fairly thorough walk-through.

ed o - I don't make a habit of driving that fast. I prefer carving corners and blasting through first and second gear.

ed o

how do you like the b&m shift kit. I haven't ridden in one with that one. I've seen the instructions-block mtv with roll pin, accumulator shims, etc. . what's your opinion as I may consider some of those mods some day. Did you do it yourself?

Max

The shift kit was one of the first modifications made. At that time I was very inexperienced and so I had it installed at a shop.

The kit has always performed well at WOT. It chirps the tires pretty hard shifting into second gear. You really have to watch it going around corners or you can lose the rear end. Now that I have the governor dialed in it even chirps the tires going into third gear at about 5,600 rpm.

The only compaint that I have about the B&M shift kit is that with the stock torque converter and the stock governor it used to bang shift into second at low speed part throttle. It produced a pretty good shock through the drivetrain and was pretty annoying.