subroc

iTrader: (2)

I just got back from the shop after having new bearings and seals pressed onto my axles. Passenger side went in nice and can be fully tightened in by the 4 retainer bolts. Drivers side is another story. Since there are two different seals, the drivers side one is sticking out too far for me to fully tighten it down. I followed the instructions and got the seals listed in drains writeup about 9 bolts. And just for the hell of it i pulled the passenger side one out again to see if there was a difference in depth that the seal could go in (aka...did the shop mix the two up even though i labeled them). Nada. What gives? Did i get the wrong seal all together? Am i missing something? I know for a fact that the axles are fully seating but there just doesnt appear to be enough room for the drivers side seal to go into the axle housing. I thought i was going to be done buttoning this thing up tonight. Nothing is as easy as i think...EVER.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

There are 2 sets of splines in the carrier that the axle has to engage. Most likely one of them was rotated slightly during axle removal. If you've got a buddy handy have him use a wrench or something suitable to hold the carrier stationary while you rotate the offending axle in small increments until it goes in completely. This will require considerable effort if your carrier is in good condition. I recently had to deal with this but I had to deal with both sides.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Actually i didnt mention it because i didnt think it would matter. That was part of the problem early on. Since i had no one else around i pulled the carrier back out and loosened it up, aligned the splines so it slips down into everything and tightened it back down torqueing it to spec with both axles in place. So it does go in further than that. My problem is the metal band of the seal is too thick to go fully into the axle housing (just looking at the bearing and seal you can see its too wide to go all the way in). Im seconds away from trimming the metal band even though i cringe at the idea of doing that. There must be something im missing.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I just had a thought. Is there a difference on the way the spring in the center of the diff is supposed to be positioned? That is the only thing i can think of anymore that would prevent the axle from fully going into the housing.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Can't comment on that, I've never had the diff apart.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Well just went out and did some detective work. I slide both axles in again and pounded them in till they couldnt go any further and measured them both to see where they sat. They were both the exact same depth from the axle housing to the flange where the wheel bolts on. This means to me that both axles are fully seating in the housing and the only thing keeping me from bolting it together entirely is the axle seal.

Also does anyone know which seal is which by looking at them? I gave the shop the seals and labeled them which side they go to but im wondering if they screwed me over and put the seals on the wrong axles.

mercdeking

same here subroc; I recently, yesterday, got both my axles on my 9 bolt reinstalled. The passenger side went in like nothing but the driver side rear or left seal stuck out a bit. Me, I searched the forums but nothing so I went at it a bit ghetto and probably to my future regret as I will probably have to redo stuff.

I saw that the seal stuck out so I figured that I could press it in by slowly bolting in the retainer plate (with 4 bolts thingamabob) and this worked to a point and figured oh well, can't seem to get it in all the way so I tightened everything up and was going to bleed my brakes and call it a day!

If anyone can tell me as well, on how to get it to fully seat I would appreciate it. I'll see if I can get; but like subroc, I also saw that the seal was a bit bigger (set9) and would stick out no matter what.

---
hey subroc, your car stats match mine, if your car dies can I call first dibs for some replacement parts?

subroc

iTrader: (2)

lol well at least im not the only one having this issue. The problem with just leaving it the way it is is the backing plate is loose. If that retainer is not tightened all the way the backing plate can just flop around. I am half thinking of trimming the inside edge of the seal (the metal ring), just enough to get the retainer to seat but i know there must be a better way. Also just curious how that ring would seal anyways? There is no rubber seal on the outside of it like the passenger side seal.

As for my car...it aint dying anytime soon. It only has 72,000 miles on and runs great ...if i could get it to move again though..that would be super.

RedLava

iTrader: (4)

I just had a shop rebuild my 9 bolt this last summer and I was going to install the axles myself to save some money, big mistake. Ran into the same problem you guys did with one axle not going in all the way.

The bearings are the same for both sides. The depth of the slot for the bearing and seal to sit in are the same on both sides of the axle housing. The seals that were sold to me originally were different thicknesses causing this problem. I ended up using the same rubber thinner seal and same bearing on both sides from the side that worked.

Although I have only driven the car for 20 miles since I got it back under the car since I had to return to school it has preformed perfectly and not leaked a drop.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Im thinking i might go that route..or cut the seal down i have. I just dont like the idea of cutting it.

Anyone know why there are two separate part #s for either side? As the poster above me said, the bearings are the same, the axle housing appears to be the same, so why different seals?

subroc

iTrader: (2)

If no one has any other ideas im just going to order up a passenger side seal and put it on the drivers side.

Do i also need to get a new bearing? The bearing i have is new but im wondering if it can be removed without destroying it.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Can you post a pic of the problem? I've had the seals and bearings replaced on 2 sets of 9 bolt axles and never had this kind of trouble before, just what I mentioned previously. I've also never used the Set9 parts that you mentioned either.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

That might be the difference then. When you replaced the bearings and seals did you use the same seal for both sides? As far as pictures go i dont have access to my camera at this time (its up at school) so pictures are out of the question. All i can say is the seal is sitting out maybe 1/8-1/4 of an inch so just enough that i cant tighten down the retainer plate. Also there is no rubber seal on the outside edge of this seal to seal it up against the axle housing. Both of these reasons make me think that i would be better off just using the same seal on both sides since the passenger side fit perfect.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Mine have different seals on each side. When I replaced the seals and bearings on the first set of axles someone had previously replaced them and used the same seal on both sides (9 bolt was a transplant) which happened to be the passenger side.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Just went out and measured the depth of the track where the bearing and seal go into the housing. On both sides i came up with 1" basically on the dot. The seal and bearing on the passenger side together make up just about an 1" on the dot. The drivers side seal and bearing are about 1 1/4 inches...maybe a bit less but still way more than it should be. Im going to go ahead and order a passenger side seal. I shouldnt have to but i dont know what else to do at this point. I will probably end up ordering another wheel bearing as well since i think they are destroyed if you take them off.

mercdeking

I think your right on them being destroyed, not sure how well they handle being pressed off; you'll end up having to get another race anyways and it comes with the bearing; they get cut off or chiseled off if I remember correctly from watching a vid on how to remove a wheel bearing. Damn though, I finished bleeding my brakes and hooking everything up. Even drove it, nothing seemed to go wrong! Just hit 115,002 miles on my camaro; so maybe I'll be your parts car guy

I did tighten up the retaining plate pretty damn good but if it needs to be done right then I probably will; which means putting my camaro back up on bricks and having the new bearing and seal pressed in; another $35.00 for the removal/pressing, plus 20 bucks for the bearing plus 17.99 or was it 19.99 for the passenger side seal to put on the driver side if that is the solution. $80.00 bucks give or take, not too horrible if I have to do it again except my time.

---Directed to Mongoose---
Do you remember what the part number was for the seals you used back when you replaced them or had them replaced?

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, I don't. I remember I got them from a Bumper to Bumper parts store.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

I already called up autozone about this and informed them of what went wrong and it basically came down that they were going to pay for the damaged seal and bearing so im not paying twice for the same parts..just twice for the labor to do it.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Honestly not to make you spend more money but i would get it fixed. If your seal was anything like mine, it sat out 1/4 of an inch and had no rubber seal between the housing and the seal. Also your entire backing plate is loose now. Maybe not right away (might be rusted together), but after awhile it will rattle itself loose. I suppose..if you want to take a bit of a chance, you can put washers between the retainer plate and the backing plate on the bolts so that at least your backing plate isnt moving around. This is a step that dont think should have to be done though if everything is correct. I already ordered another passenger side seal so i will post up how everything goes after im done...which at my rate, ill be old and grey before.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Here are some pictures of why it isnt working

This one shows the depth of the axle housing as 1 inch

here is a picture of the bearing and seal..measuring in at 1 1/4 inch

And here is the seal sticking out of the housing

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

I think you may have the wrong seal, that doesn't even come close to looking like the seal on either of my 9 bolts.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

yea it was the seal called for in by autozone computers and drains writeup. Im getting another seal (not timken). Hopefully it will work. I would just get a passenger side seal but i found out these things are directional and if i do that it might (probably) will leak.

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Not to encourage the same seal idea but my first 9 bolt that had the same seal on both did start to leak a year after I swapped it in and the leak was on the passenger side so who knows, it may work for you.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

hmmm. Well from what i gather it will be easy for me to identify if the seal is directional or not. There should be some grooves in it and if its for the passenger side then its only for that side. But i dont remember if the seal that did fit had those or not.

Also the seal that was leaking on yours, was it a timken or do u not know?

Mongoose

iTrader: (2)

Don't know.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

timken.com has good info on the seals and bearings.. I believe the dimensions are there as well.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Ok still having problems with this and no one seems to know the answer. I dont want to put the passenger side seal on the drivers side cause i have been told that it will probably leak (directional). The current seal is no good as far as i kno (measured bearing and seal with a micrometer and it was 1 1/8). The seal itself was exactly .46 inches deep. Every other seal i find is around the same depth. This one looks completely different though:

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Rear+Wheel

It says the depth is .53 meaning it would only heighten the problem..but from that crappy photo it looks like they measured on on the inside of the seal. The outside looks tapered like it might work. What is everyones thoughts. I really have no idea whats going on with this anymore. Im wishing i had never bothered getting this rear in the first place.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Just letting everyone know that i ordered the napa seal. Hopefully it will work for me. Will let everyone know how it goes.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

Ok ill give some closure for everyone. I ended up getting the correct seal from, of all places, napa. It was 20 bucks + 8 for shipping but at this point i would pay anything for the right one. Anyways i got another set 9 timken bearing and test fitted the napa seal along with the bearing in the axle housing. It fit perfect so i got the bearing pressed on. The whole rear is back together and installed in the car again. I just gotta button up a few things and it should be out cruising, if there was no salt on the roads.

So in summary, DO NOT buy the timken left rear wheel seal for the 9 bolt. Buy from napa or some other place that carries the correct seal. At some point timken messed up the seals as shown by others on this board who ran into the same problem i did. The bearings themselves and the right rear wheel seal were just fine though. When i get a chance i will add this tidbit of information to the "everything i know about the 9 bolt" thread so others in the future do not run into the same problem i did.

big gear head

Where is this everything i know about the 9 bolt? I did a search and didn't find it.

subroc

iTrader: (2)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...now-about.html

The search function on TGO really sucks. Honestly it should have taken me two seconds to find this but it ended up taking me 15 minutes. And i only found it through another thread that i hoped had a link to it. Someone please tell me what is wrong...if i type everything 9 bolt...or everything i know about the 9 bolt it should come right up with this thread. It doesnt even come close though.