Freeplay between Reverse input housing and Reaction shell, technical....
02-08-2001, 08:44 AM
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Freeplay between Reverse input housing and Reaction shell, technical....
Ok, I am assembling an 82-84 700R-4 and I have everything put together, all bushings in, all new steels, all new clutches... I have the input shaft mouted in a bucket with a hole in the bottom of it, so in any case the input shaft is pointing downward while the input housing is mounted through the reverse input clutch... so basicly the entire front half of the tranny is complete... now when I place my reaction shell onto the unit, and align the huge teeth along the outside with the teeth on the Reverse input housing.. it doesn't seat all the way down. Follow me?
The large teeth completely seat, but when I pull on the reaction carrier support, there is freeplay between the reaction shaft thrust washer and the reaction shell. Whats up? The four holes line up on the wahser and the reaction shell, and it partially sits but not all the way. When mounted in the tranny will this even matter?
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Owner of a 1989 IROC Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.2? posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.
The large teeth completely seat, but when I pull on the reaction carrier support, there is freeplay between the reaction shaft thrust washer and the reaction shell. Whats up? The four holes line up on the wahser and the reaction shell, and it partially sits but not all the way. When mounted in the tranny will this even matter?
------------------
Owner of a 1989 IROC Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.2? posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.
02-11-2001, 03:05 AM
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The shell does not engage fully (all the way to the bottom). If you have not assembled the transmission yet?, then I would make sure that the shell & drum have the most amount of slack (the teeth between the shell & drum should have the most clearance) you can do this by repositioning the shell one tooth at a time on the drum and check for back and forth clearance. You want the maximum clearance, this will give you the maximum contact area (teeth surface), and the least wear (metal in the pan). If you have any questions call me at 800 7763288 Mon-Sat PST and I will be glad too help.
Hope This Helps!!!
Hope This Helps!!!
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