Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

Grinding into Reverse???

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Old 01-13-2001, 09:46 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
Grinding into Reverse???

i have a stock BW t-5 behind a 350 i installed this summer. as far as i know it has never been rebuilt. Lately, when i start it up in the morning and put it in reverse (it warms up for about 10 minutes) it grinds like crazy going into gear. It doesnt do it with any foward gear, and for the most part, the problem goes away after about 25 minutes of driving it. it seems to get worse when i rev the engine with the clutch in, and then try to shift into reverse. the clutch is new if that helps any, and the throw-out bearing chirps like crazy(havent had time to fix it yet). IS there something wrong with the tranny, or should i just ignore it? I've never dealt with trannies before, so if it has to be rebuilt, its gonna have to go to the shop which i cant really afford right now, so, any advice/comments you have will be greatly appreciated....

------------------
86 Z28 red,
originally LG4,
new 350,
non comp Qjet,
T-5 five speed with new clutch,
stock 3.23 gears, Edelbrock Performer intake,
crane 272H cam,
Accel 8mm wires,
Edelbrock performer cat- back,
Homemade cold/forced air intake.
KYB GR-2 struts and shocks.
Grant GT leather wrap steering wheel.
Sony X-plod stereo.
Optima 6x9's

Future mods:
NOS,
Edelbrock TES headers, hi flo cat.
4th gen interior
6 point roll cage
3.42 gears
hurst billet/plus shifter
Edelbrock STB
Telstar rims

cars i've beaten:
95' Avenger, 88 Mustang GT, 70' Mustang , 97 Dodge Ram, 94 firebird formula, 92 Mustang GT, 94' 3000GT VR4, 97' Accord Rice Rocket (just barely), countless many ricers....
Old 01-13-2001, 09:53 PM
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sounds like the synchronizers or clutch slipping check alingnment.
Old 01-13-2001, 09:56 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
how would i go about doing that?
Old 01-13-2001, 11:52 PM
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Put it in a forward gear right before you try to put it in reverse!!!! That's all you have to do to make it quit.

I've bought trans's from people who didn't do that. You ought to see how much metal it sheds into the fluid from grinding the teeth.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Old 01-14-2001, 03:43 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
thanks RB8, that seems to be helping out quite a bit. It still does it a little bit, but not as much as going right into reverse..

------------------
86 Z28 red,
originally LG4,
new 350,
non comp Qjet,
T-5 five speed with new clutch,
stock 3.23 gears, Edelbrock Performer intake,
crane 272H cam,
Accel 8mm wires,
Edelbrock performer cat- back,
Homemade cold/forced air intake.
KYB GR-2 struts and shocks.
Grant GT leather wrap steering wheel.
Sony X-plod stereo.
Optima 6x9's

Future mods:
NOS,
Edelbrock TES headers, hi flo cat.
4th gen interior
6 point roll cage
3.42 gears
hurst billet/plus shifter
Edelbrock STB
Telstar rims

cars i've beaten:
95' Avenger, 88 Mustang GT, 70' Mustang , 97 Dodge Ram, 94 firebird formula, 92 Mustang GT, 94' 3000GT VR4, 97' Accord Rice Rocket (just barely), countless many ricers....
Old 01-14-2001, 03:52 PM
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I can't necessarily explain this technically, but if you let out on the clutchsome while putting pressure toward reverse, it will fall right into gear before the clutch engages.

------------------
'86 IROC-Z, 305 LG-4, T-5, T-Tops, 50k Original Miles, K&N Air Filter, Jet chip, KYB Shocks/Struts, Centerforce Dual Friction, B&M Ripper Shifter
Old 01-15-2001, 12:48 AM
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Car: 1990 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: 355 TPI siamesed runners
Transmission: Tremec T56
Axle/Gears: 12-Bolt 3.73
1st thru 5th gear have synchronizers that line up the gears before you engage them. Reverse does not. If you put the trans in 5th gear first, then shift to reverse, with the clutch in, reverse wont grind. You can shift it to any gear you want first, but 5th is easiest since its right above reverse.

------------------
West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
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Old 01-15-2001, 07:41 AM
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sounds like the clutch isnt disengaging completly and the synchros are masking the problem in forward gears.
Old 01-15-2001, 08:49 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
ok, so ive tried pretty much everything suggested in the above posts, it still grinds like crazy. So lets say my clutch isnt completely disengaging, what can i do
to go about checking and or fixing that problem?

[This message has been edited by zupmanZ28 (edited January 15, 2001).]
Old 01-15-2001, 08:56 PM
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they all grind going into R. mine did when brand spanking new 1989. The only way for it NOT to grind is to go into 1st first. It becomes a habit after a while
Old 01-15-2001, 09:04 PM
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I agree with Larry, I've gotten to where if I get in the car I shift into 1st. anyway, you said your clutch chirps, I think I know what you're talking about if it does it at the very bottom of the pedal travel, right? how do you get rid of it?

------------------
-'92 RS with self-installed '95 LT1
-Heddman Headers
-TPIS throttle body airfoil

Kills
-'97 Mustang Cobra
-'98 V6 Camaro
-'89 5.0 ****stang
-'97 Sebring
-'96 ****stang Cobra

Losses
-'99 Mustang GT
-'96 Mustang Cobra
-'95 Z28 (good race)
Old 01-16-2001, 11:17 AM
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Originally posted by Kevin91Z:
You can shift it to any gear you want first, but 5th is easiest since its right above reverse.

Good to see I'm not the only one who rows into 5th then reverse. Makes it much simplier.



------------------
1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
http://350.StreetRacing.org
WARNING: overpowering a broken posi unit can lead to abusive behavior...
Old 01-16-2001, 01:29 PM
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I just learned a simple test to see whether or not your clutch is dragging. Let the car idle in neutral with the clutch disengaged. Wait for the car to get a steady idle then push the clutch in for 5 seconds then shift into reverse. If the tranny grinds then your clutch is not disengaging properly and the input shaft is spinning. Do not mistake grinding for normal gear noise. It would be warpage on any of the 3 clutch members, air in the system, carpet under the pedal or to much freeplay. If you are going to check the throwout bearing then it would be simple to sheck the clutch while the tranny is out. I don't know if your clutch is self adjusting or not but try lifting the pedal up as far as it will go. That should adjust the linkage if possible. good luck

------------------
82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter
Old 01-16-2001, 01:32 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
the most common cause for the chirp is bad throwout bearing, and you have to replace that. However ive replaced mine three times within the year, and i am just now finding out i have a bent shift fork, so thats got to get fixed too. Im glad to hear this grinding is normal and its not time for me to get a new tranny, that would have sucked...

------------------
86 Z28 red,
originally LG4,
new 350,
non comp Qjet,
T-5 five speed with new clutch,
stock 3.23 gears, Edelbrock Performer intake,
crane 272H cam,
Accel 8mm wires,
Edelbrock performer cat- back,
Homemade cold/forced air intake.
KYB GR-2 struts and shocks.
Grant GT leather wrap steering wheel.
Sony X-plod stereo.
Optima 6x9's

Future mods:
NOS,
Edelbrock TES headers, hi flo cat.
4th gen interior
6 point roll cage
3.42 gears
hurst billet/plus shifter
Edelbrock STB
Telstar rims

cars i've beaten:
95' Avenger, 88 Mustang GT, 70' Mustang , 97 Dodge Ram, 94 firebird formula, 92 Mustang GT, 94' 3000GT VR4, 97' Accord Rice Rocket (just barely), countless many ricers....
Old 01-16-2001, 01:35 PM
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Car: 86' Z28
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82z,
i'll try that as soona as i get it back, it when to the shop today (im getting the exhaust manifolds planed cause i dont have money for headers, and there ticking like crazy)
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