Okay I installed a 350 tpi in my 92 b4c/1le camaro (92). It has a stock 5 speed and my clutch went out on the 2nd day. It was a stock clutch. So I already ordered the centerforce dual friction clutch. Does anyone have any tips on the install because Im going to do it myself. Any tips or suggestions would be helpful. If anyone has done this already your input would be very appretiated. Thank You

 

Unhook the battery, remove the driveshaft, tranny support crossmember and support tranny with flor jack, remove the torque arm and be careful when unbolting it from the tranny because it has pressure on it and could shove your hand into the floorboard like it did mine one time...hurt to . Inside the car you neeed to remove the center console and the tranny boot along with the shifter. Get some black RTV to re-seal the shifter when you put it back on after everything is back in. THe shifter will have to be out to remove the tranny. Some books say to have the tranny in neutral when you remove the shifter.

you may have a hard time reaching some of the bolts at teh top of the bell housing. There were one or two in particular near the top that we had to use a couple long extensions on with a swivel joint to get to it and then it was a bear to break loose. I'm still using the same fork arm and slave cylinder on my 88 that came on it stock so you may be ok, just unbolt it and put it to the side. There is no adjusting the slave cylinder. Look how the dust shield comes off b/c the starter prohibits it from going back on if not put on in the same order you took it off. I know, simple step but a real pain if you forget and have to take the starter off to put the dust shield back on. You need to have the flywheel re-surfaced along with the pressure plate and have the pressure plate re-built with slightly stronger springs in it if you didn't order a new pressure plate. Be careful on the flywheel b/c I had my tranny out 4 times trying to figure out why my clutch was chattering adn finally talked to Hayes and they said it sounded like my flywheel had been re-surfaced too much and it wasn't mating with the clutch poperly and would require spacers. However my flywheel was also warping when it got hot due to when my stock clutch was slipping real bad. Finally just replaced the flywheel and the problem was solved. If your old clutch slipped a lot you may have hot spots on it. If not then make sure the people who re-surface it take just enough off to even it out and no more.

You will need two people when it comes to taking out and putting in the tranny. When putting it in my dad was usually the one holding the front up and wiggling it in while I was holding the back up also (had the car up on blocks in the garage...kind of tight quarters). We did use a floor jack to help get the tranny up to begin with though and may need one to help hold the tail shaft up after you remove the cross member and teh driveshaft. Don't tilt the tranny back too far when taking it out or you'll have a nice puddle of tranny fluid on your garage floor. We had an old tranny yoke we stuck in the end to keep the fluid in. Might be a good time to change the fluid anyways and replace it with ATF fluid or a high performance replacement. Don't use the heavy gear oil like the non-WC T-5 used. You'll burn the synchronizers up because teh heavy oil can't get into the synchronizers and allow the m to operate properly like the ATF does.

Replace the throwout bearing with a new one and get a roller pilot bearing to replace the stock, solid bronze pilot bushing. You can get one from Summit, Jegs or the local Chevy dealer. At the dealer its the pilot bearing that is used on the manual transmission trucks with a diesal engine.

Don't let someone push the clutch in once you take the slave cylinder loose from the tranny.

Pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual to read how they suggest doing it step by step and the torque specs for re-tightening the bolts.

I probaly forgot something but that was a long overview. I'm sure others will help out also.

------------------
1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit, Holley projection intake,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.

1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip

2000 Kawasaki KX 125

 

Make sure you kit comes with, or invest in the $2 clutch alignment tool. Its well worth it!

------------------
1992 Pontiac Firebird 350/Six Speed
1987 Toyota Pickup 383/500+ HP

 

I knew I would forget something..thanks. We used my old input shaft from where I replaced it when I re-built my tranny. Talk about a nice expensive clutch alignment tool .

 

I have had my tranny out too many times to count. The only thing i would add to Badbirds dialog, is that you can just unscrew the shift lever without removing the console, boot etc. It will save alot of time. The tranny is really a straight forward job.

 

I just want to say thanks for all the input. Im going to start on it tomorrow and if i have any problems i'll just ask you guys.

thanks