89TXIroc

Hello everyone, I have been through the walk thru's, threads and even asking around LT1 owners about the best stuff to use. But being a dedicated third gen lover, i'd respect your opinions above all else.

I currently have a TPI 350 putting down approx 380 FWHP and god knows how much torque (calculated by et calc AND trips to my drag strip.).

I have blown up my T-5 tranny too many times and Im ready to upgrade to the T-56 I have sitting in my garage...waiting for swap parts.

I Still Have a few questions, hopefully they can be resolved.
First, Help me fill in my parts list

Have - T-56 Tranny from a '94 Camaro
Have - Master Cylinder
Have - Slave Cylinder
Need - Swap transmission crossmember
Need - Centerforce 2 piece RMS Flywheel
Need - Clutch kit (looking into spec stage 2)
Need - All new bolts for flywheel (mine are way too far gone to reuse)
Skipping - The VSS stuff

Also, Do I need a new torque arm or will the oem work?
also, can i get some more info on how to eliminate the CAGS and Reverse lockout. I Want to do this right the first time, that way I can contribute by making a T-5 to T-56 Thridgen Write-up. which is more detailed the some.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Reuse your stock torque arm.

You just dont wire up the cags

Power and ground will disengage the reverse lockout solenoid, choose your method for how you want to enable this.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

You might want to consider a few upgrades to the trans with that kind of power.

My T56 just shipped and I'm going to do a rebuild with a steel 3-4 shift fork, and at least the 3-4 billet syncro keys. The little billet keys are mega expensive and it seems from what I've read that only the 3-4 syncros need them. If the 3-4 fork bends you will over shift and break the keys and can't get it out of gear I've read. So, for about $100 extra I think it's cheap insurance.

I'm also converting my trans for use with a cable driven speedo. I will most likely be offering this service to others soon.

Keep us posted on your swap. I'll be following close behind you.

calebzman

iTrader: (3)

Hey, I am just a few days away from my swap as well. Here is where I bought my flywheel: http://www.wpsracing.com/cestfl152ses.html It was cheaper than summit & shipped in only 3 days. Also, check out this site for clutch info: http://www.fbody.com/lt1/274535 I'm going with the autozone LT4 PP and a mcleod clutch disc to save some money over an aftermarket clutch kit. The only thing I have left to buy is the master/slave hydraulics which I'll probably get from a GM dealer or here: http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/819

Also, the reverse lockout I plan to activate with the brakes and not hook up the cags.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I was looking for just the LT4 pressure plate and not a full kit, but didn't see one listed. Do you have a part# for the Autozone pressure plate?

calebzman

iTrader: (3)

NU31265 is the part number for the LT4 clutch kit. The disc comes with that, but I will be swapping it with the mcleod disc instead. Even though I had to pay for the disc that comes with the kit and not use it, I still save a good bit of money over buying an aftermarket kit.

89TXIroc

updated parts list...

Anything else reccomended for beefing up the tranny without breaking the bank?

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Did some checking and the number you listed is the LT1 clutch. NU31278 is the LT4 vette clutch.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Sorry......double post for some reason???

calebzman

iTrader: (3)

I am almost certain that NU31265 has the LT4 PP. The difference between the 2 lie in the fingers, where the LT1 has ribbed & the LT4 fingers are flat. For reference see: http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...5&postcount=12

Twilightoptics

Don't hook up the CAGS. I removed mine and put a plug in there. For the reverse lockout... wire it to your brake light switch. Run a wire from the 12v+ output on the switch when the lights are on, to the Reverse switch. Then from the reverse switch run the 2nd wire to a ground. Doesn't matter which wire does what on the reverse switch.

It's kind of a stiff spring to overpower without, and you want some kind of lockout so you don't hit it when you're downshifting from 6th to 5th. Just easier to press the brake and it goes right in.

alloy

iTrader: (16)

I'm well aware of the differences of the two pressure plates, and that the LT4 kit disk isn't sprung.

As far as application I'm going off the part number and application listed by both Zone's and CSK's web site. If the cheaper NU31265 has the LT4 plate, I'll be all over it because it has a sprung disk. Please let us know if it does have the LT4 plate when you buy the kit.

84wildcard

I personally would NEVER use a stock torque arm. I ripped mine off of my 95 TA with a stock drivetrain and stock clutch. Besides that, you will notice a big difference with the way the car handles when you launch the car.

mcgarnicle

iTrader: (14)

I recommend wiring up the VSS. I drove mine for a little while without wiring it up and the idle was terrible,and it would die very often highway cruising when I would press in the clutch.

Not very enjoyable.

calebzman

iTrader: (3)

Attached are the pics of the NU31265 clutch kit from autozone. So it should be the LT4 PP, correct?

online170

I would recommend going with the Skulte crossmember over the Spohn cross-member. BOTH are quality peices and work great, but the skulte is a more "slender" peice, and will give you more clearance if you decide to do radical stuff with exhaust or lowering the car.

89TXIroc

Well, I started matching up parts while my T-5 is already down, and I found my torque arm mount had a little bit too much metal from a welded on washer (looks stock) so i had to grind it down for all holes to match up. Has anyone else seen this issue?

Hole not matching up


Extra metal washer just under the hole for the bolt.


Ground the metal down.


Black Engine Enamel is the best for everything :-)


Everything is looking nice and flush, just the way I like it

89TXIroc

Update!!!

New questions tho... My master cyl. is the exact same as my buddy's old LT1 master cyl...part number for part number.

Is the slave cyl different or can i use my brand new one i just replaced for my t-5? im not sure if the hose will line up with the location of the slave on the t56.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Your hose might be to short but there is no reason you cant use that slave.

89TXIroc

anyone know a place to buy just the master-slave hose? (steel braided) i have a brand new master and slave... i just need the hose

89TXIroc

OK guys, everyone has been very supportive here at TGO, now I think im ready to do the swap. Just a few more questions before I continue. Feel free to help with any that you know/had problems with.

I'm reusing my t5 master and slave, but with a lt1 steel braided line for length.

No CAGS wiring, reverse lockout will be wired to breaks...

Questions about VSS tho. I will be ordering a SGI-5 box when i can, but in the meanwhile, will my car run without? Also, with the mechanical speedo, how will i still have a working speedo? what else will I Have to buy? (links plz)

alloy

iTrader: (16)

Here is a link for a Cable-x box. http://www.abbott-tach.com/Cable%20X.html

They say on the site you can buy this for less that it would cost to have a gear drive setup installed. They aren't completely correct on that account.

I've lost a speedo cable in the past and the engine wouldn't idle right, stalled when I came to a light, and mileage went down considerably along with an computer error code. I'm doing the work to convert my trans to a cable drive. I'm not found of a "black box" type of deal. Guess I'm old school, give me a mechanical connection I can work on over a electronic gizmo every time.

89TXIroc

Has anyone wired up both the SGI and this cable-x box? will it run into any issues?