Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know how much faster you would run doing this, seat of the pants feel? Just want to know if its worth the money of doing.. anyone know how many rpms that would turn at 70 mph with a 700r4?

Tobias05

I turn about 2400rpm with the converter locked and with 3.42s...

guess and say 2600 for 3.73s?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

You will notice a difference, if you are looking for more acceleration and quicker ET, then go for it. If it is your daily you put around in, leave it alone.

Jproz1167

iTrader: (3)

Dude forget 3.73's man you wont feel any difference ... go with 4.56 gears and you will be extremly happy in all ways.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I agree with Zone.

JamesC

atc3434

iTrader: (4)

70mph was around 2650rpm w/ the converter locked in my car. Not ideal for fuel economy. I've since given up my lockup converter, that sure didn't help either. 3.73's will defintely feel faster, in a TPI350 they probably arn't going to add much to your overall ET, I'm sure between the 700R4's low first, and TPI's mountain of off-idle torque, you already have more power from a dig that the tires will tolerate. I'm not sure how far along you are with other mods, but there may be other mods that would serve you better. How about a litte more info about your setup?

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

My setup is:

Newly rebuilt 355, speed pro hyper pistons, pro seal rings, shot peened rods with arp bolts, remanufactured crank, melling oil pump, double roller timing chain

lt4 hotcam, 1.6 lt4(GM Crane)roller rockers, lt1 pushrods and lifters, new sdpc vortec heads upgraded with springs for higher lift

holley stealthram with adj fuel reg, 58mm lingenfelter throttlebody, ford svo 24lb injectors

lsracing chip, all smog and a/c removed, non air exhaust manifolds with dual cats and 3 flowmaster exhaust, K&N airfilters, castrol syntec, MSD pro billet dist, NGK TR55s

The car is fast, but needs to be faster off the line, ya know. Its my summer car, and so its my daily driver from April/May to October/November. I might take it to lancaster once in a while to race it, (but never have) so its really just a street car.

Before I consider putting gears in, I am definetly throwing a STALL CONVERTER in, any suggestions for that?? I was thinking either 2600 or 2800 stall, maybe TCI? Also even though those manifolds are big, theyre still manifolds, I plan on putting in hooker LT's with true dual 3", h pipe and powersticks. I think i should pick up like 25hp from that. So I was gonna do stall converter, then LT's, then consider the gear swap. it needs to be faster off the line, so i figured its the gears.

atc3434

iTrader: (4)

Manifolds are killing an otherwise great setup. You're only breathing as good as your crappiest part, and those manifolds are defitnely your crappiest part. You seems to be motivated to do things pretty well, so go head with long tubes. After that, I would think that a 2800 stall and 3.73's would be work very well indeed. Cam, stealth ram, and vortecs is gonna like some rpm, 3.73's would probably be well suited.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Thats exactly what I was thinking. The thing is I have some 1 3/4" SLP shorties and ypipe, I could put those on, and ditch the cats for considerable less money and work than the LT's. But I really wanna do my LT idea.. I could sell those slps, buy some hookers (coated or painted, worth the money??) 2210s and go with that. How much more HP am I looking at do you think from switching from manifolds (bigger than stock) to SLPs, then to hooker LT's. im thining the shorties arent worth much HP over the manifolds, and the LTS would yield way more HP. This car is gonna be a beast after im done. If i had 3.42s i wouldnt bother with a gear swap but its got the 3.23s. Also im putting in a megashifter so i can shift when i want

atc3434

iTrader: (4)

Shorties are worth signifigant power over manifolds. LT's are worth more, but not like the difference between manifolds and shorties. If you've already got the SLP stuff, bolt it up and feel the difference, its gonna be noticeable, the rest of that setup is gonna come alive. Spend the money for LT's on converter and gears. Just my

Pro Built Automatics

You will see very little difference between the two gear sets in your case, I would go with a 9.5" Edge or Vigilante torque converter. The stall would mainly depend on how you drive. If you want to keep the R's down and gas mileage up, stay with the 3.23's. The torque converter will do a lot more in terms of performance than a rear end gear ratio change. For headers, see if Clear Image has a set of Tri-Y's for this vehicle. They will out perfrom a 4 tube header all the way to 6,000rpm. They offer increased low & mid range torque, and better gas mileage.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Well I don't really like the exhaust on the car, its gonna go regardless. Its got like i said, bigger non air manifolds, then dual cats, and 3" flowmaster catback (only one tailpipe ). The car is way too quiet, and that exhaust is restrictive.

Will my slp shorties and y pipe bolt right up? so i Just drop the headers in, then ypipe will fit to them and the cats? I might just do this temporarily, right now its too quiet/restrictive, i dont like one tailpipe and the cats are robbing power also. Am i really gonna notice the gain switching from manifolds to shorties? It just seems like theyre too small to do anything and single exhaust isnt exactly performance. Im thinking im gonna splurge and get the LT's later on, but will do the shorties for now and then ill sell them when i put hte LTs on.

My last car (89 RS) had a B&M 2800 stall on it, with a dart al headed 305tpi, and a big cam, edelbrock tes headers. I really liked the car, it was way fast for a 305, definetly felt the stall when driving it. Not going with a b&m though because for some reason that car never went into OD. I dont want to lost OD by going to a stall converter, so I need the lock up kind right?

How much is that edge or vigilante converters? Whats the deal with the diameter sizes? Is bigger or smaller better? I need something in the 300-600 dollar range. Also, I should get one of those B&M transcoolers for it right?

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Heres some pics:

[img]http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...77_17_full.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...77_16_full.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...77_14_full.jpg[/img]

atc3434

iTrader: (4)

I vote you try it out with your shorties, you'll like it I'm sure.

Tobias05

i second the 9.5 inch edge converter, its amazing! going from 2.73's to 3.42s was pretty good, but the torque converter upgrade took the cake.

if i were you i'd forget the LT's AND gears, and buy an edge. throw the shorties on as well.

the money you woulda spent on LTs/gears is gonna be needed for some sticky tires.
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sorry i didn't see this part the first time around...

a custom built edge TC (9.5 inch) will cost you 550ish to your door.

going from a stock 12 inch TC to a 9.5 will save some rotating weight. somewhere around 15 lbs i believe, but don't quote me on that.

I have a transcooler plumbed after my stock tranny radiator cooler. i also have an autometer tranny gauge plumbed into the return line at the transmission, and a derale tranny pan.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Alright Im gonna throw on the shorties! These slp headers are weird what sort of gasket do I need to get for them?? The part that bolts to the heads arent connected if you know what I mean.

550ish to my door sounds good, where do I get one of those TCs from??

Tobias05

order from either pro built, or order directly from their site like i did.

www.edgeracingconverters.com

throw one of these babies in, and you won't be needing more gear!

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

just emailed them..

Im thinking the street one would work, the mild one looks too wimpy

jimmy92rs

iTrader: (3)

i would go with the 3.73 becuase u have an auto with overdrive. i went from 3.08s to 4.10s and boy that was a difference!

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

i am actually going to do 323 to 373 swap come early spring along with an edge 3500 stall. how much time did you cut off your et with your gear and tc swap?
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it says you have a 9 bolt in your information on the left, do you plan on sticking with the 9 bolt or swapping in a used 10 bolt already with 373s?

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

I was gonna just get gears for it.. but im not gonna do anything right now. Im gonna put on those headers next weekend, and then order that stall converter and a tranny cooler and a megashifter. I think ill be good to go after that, if its still slow after that then im swapping gears and/or doin LT's

Tobias05

to tell you the truth, I've ran my car at the drag strip all of about 3 times in a course of 2 years. first two trips were on an open 2.73 rear, stock stall, and a slipping tranny, lol.

third trip was with the edge/3.42 combo...

last time i went, i was on 3 year old 17" kumhos, and i babied it out of the hole for a 14.5@98. i was also running 79 jets in the secondaries of a 650DP at the time. WAY too rich. I have 73's in there now. to make matters even worse, i realized i was at about 90% throttle 3/4ths the way down the track! HAHA. that was my 14.5 run too...

i guess a 14.5@98 isn't too bad seeing how i tend to handicap myself

so yeah, basically i suck, haha...

...since the track I've added a cowl hood, a pair of nittos out back, an LS1 aluminum DS, and reduced the secondary jets six sizes.

I honestly believe this thing could do low 13's as is, with a lot more time behind the wheel at the strip.

I'd be willing to bet a baked potato could race my car better than me...

...does that answer your question?

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

i would think your set up would be running low 13s

Tobias05

yeah, i'm just a retard.

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

edge told me I want a 3000 true math stall, 9.5" and its 525 plus shipping.. whats the shipping cost do you know? I like their customer service so far, their **** seems like its well built and they know what theyre talking about, i think its worth the extra money over a b&m