maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

ok i just got done with my t5 swap a couple of weeks ago, when i finished it up i drove the car for about a week and then i started having problems with the pedal its like the master cylinder was broken, the release was way at the floor and got to the point where it wouldnt go into neutral so i couldnt change gears. i changed the master cylinder and slave cylinder and when i did i noticed the ball stud for the clutch fork was loose i tightened it up and went to push in the clutch it went straight to the floor. i loosened the stud up some to where it was before and then i had a clutch, but i didnt bleed the slave cylinder. i drove the car for a couple of days untill the pedal went out like before. the pedal would just go straight to the floor. i put the car on the lift and the slave cylinder was busted. the little rubber boot was completely filled with brake fluid this was the new slave cylinder. so i went and got another one put it on and bled the system got all the air out of it and the ball stud i tightened down and i have no pedal at all, so i loosened the stud up a little like before and still no pedal thats where im at right now hopefully someone here can help me out b/c im at a standstill.

5678TA

hmmmmm... soooo, you have no clutch?? ok first off, you probably want to tighten that pivot ball up so you compress the slave rod into the slave at least 3/4"-1".. without that, the pressure will blow the seal..

umm, bleed the hydraulics on the bench and hope to god that it works.. and dont forget to install the throwout bearing the correct way..

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

i was told by my uncle (mechanic) that bench bleeding it wouldnt be neccessary and that he never bench bleeds them he just puts it all together and cracks that bleeder screw loose to get all the air out. im pretty possitive all the air is out b/c the first couple times i bled it some air came out and then now when i crack it a little fluid bleeds out then i crank it shut. and i am doing this the right way(having someone push the clutch then crack the bleeder then tighter the bleeder then release the clutch) so im guessing there is something wrong with the fork ball stud or release bearing. i bought a brand new release bearing and i i put it on the way my technical manual explained with their diagram. is it possible for the fork to slip off the ball or off the bearing by chance?

and thank you for your help btw today and tomarrow are my only days off so id like to get it wrapped up tomarrow if possible

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

I'm not to familiar with the t5, I know when I did my t56 swap I had to bleed it on the bench, but the t56 doesn't have a bleed screw. I would have to say ck to make sure that the clutch fork is moving, then make sure it is moving enough. it sounds like the slave cylinder isn't working right, but like I said I really don't have any experience with the t5.

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

ok i didnt get much time to work on it today but i did take the boot off the fork and the fork is still on the pivot ball and the throwout bearing is still on the fork. i can move the fork back and forth with the slave cylinder off and i can see the throwout bearing moving so in my eyes all that seems to be good, i guess ill try and replace the slave cylinder in the morning and see how that goes. no one seems to have any idea of what im saying or never had this problem b4 b/c im not getting any good suggestions...

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

well i figured it out, the clutch fork wasnt riding on the ball stud correctly after i had the problem with it being loose and tight. i took the boot out tightened the ball stud got the fork seated and put the boot back in, put the slave cylinder in and drove it off... relief...

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

glad to hear it mike, you need to stop by with it on day

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

ya i will what you doing tomarrow in the morning? like b4 2? i passed you wife like yesterday in it.