OK people, it's been a LONG time since my last post, but it has also been a LONG time since my car was in use. I am sincerely praying that a kind sole with some knowledge of this transmission (700r4) may ease my pain! I took a perfectly well running trans am apart...well not perfectly, but at least it drove. And built a 385 with a fairly tall cam, and thus, a 2500rpm stall. Before you ask, yes the trans has fluid...as does the converter, the only change i have made to the setup, aside from the engine is that the four prong electronic plug in is no longer on the car...and there for not pluged into the tranny. after all my labor, and preparing for its maden voiage yesterday, i very excitedly sat into my car...put it in gear....and absolutely nothing happened. Now as i said, this transmission worked fine when i dissesembled the car 3 or 4 months ago. And to answer the obvious question, i also took my tranny out and replaced the new torque converter with the old, known to work, converter. So my question is, could that four wire connection, or lack there of be the culprit...or are my problems more serious....Please Help!? This is a rented shop and my times about up!!!!!

 

I had this prob on the very first tranny I worked on years ago. turns out I didn't have the torque conveter all the way in. When you put it on the input shaft of the tranny, spin it and push untill you hear 2 clunks. the first one is relatively easy, but it might take a while for the second one. if not installed correctly, the splines in the converter will never contact the front pump and the tranny will never get fluid. the converter just spins on the input shaft. As I said, I had that same problem and the older kid up the street came down and helped me pull the tranny and we put it back on. Worked great afterwards. hope this helps man.

 

Thanks for the reply...one question before i try though...would the tranny have still bolted all the way up with the torque converter not in all the way...seems like it wouldnt let the bell housing suck all the way to the block..??

 

That is what I thought when it happend to me, I completely agree with you. But the fitment is literately milimeters, most of the time you don't even notice.

 

well thanx for the advice...and you were right. Unfortunately i cant fix it by placing the converter correctly, as the incorrect placement, and the fact that i bolted it down neway caused the drive tabs on the pump to be broken off by the converter....how thrilling.

 

New question...how hard is it to replace that drive pump. Is it something that i can do myself or should i just take it to a tranny shop?

 

i took one apart once its the i think 6 if i remember correctly bolts in front of the trans in the bellhousing remove the trans pan and pull the filter off. then i stuck a screwdriver behind the pump carefully not to scratch or gouge the pump and pushed it out. you have to get a new gasket for the pump and of course a new pump. but all in all its not really that difficult i hope this helps you

ryan

 

Before you try to pull the pump out, take the pan off and remove the TCC solenoid. If you don't, you'll break it off. The best way to tell if the converter is all the way in the pump is the distance between the pump and the converter. If you can't stick your fingers between the pump and the converter, your good. Two other things to check are: check the crank for an old pilot bearing, it won't let the converter go all the way back. With the trans bolted up, the converter should spin free, and you should have between 1/8" and 3/16" between the flywheel and the bolt pads on the converter. Hope this helps...

 

thanx alot guys....i'll be sure to keep posted and get some pics up when this is all done...should be a pretty nice ride. Roll cage and all!!!!

 

getting ready to do this swap today...i got a new pump. Couple questions, can you tell me where the tcc solenoid is located? do i have to remove the valve body for any of this? and how hard is it to push out the old pump, cause the guy at the local tranny shop told me that i would need a specialty puller to get that out...

 

The TCC solenoid is on the top left corner of the valvebody area. You don't have to pull the vb, just the two 10mm headed bolts that hold the TCC in. There may be a pressure switch that screws in the vb in the way, if so, just remove it and use a flat blade screw driver to pop the TCC out. As for the pump, you can use a big flat blade screw driver to pop it out. Take the filter and the TCC solenoid out, the pump bolts out, then carefully pry between the pump and the reverse drum. Pry gently, and on opposite sides. Go in on the TCC side(not in the TCC bore) and on the side with the shifter shaft. It may take several attempts. Once you get it out, use some vaseline to stick the thrust washer to the new pump if the new one didn't come with one, swap the seal rings if the new pump didn't come with them(look closely at the ends of the seal rings before you remove them, and install them so the ends fit the same way), install the gasket(use the old one as reference on how it goes) and the o-ring. Remove the old gasket(if it's stuck to the case, use a single edged razor blade and be CAREFUL!), apply some ATF to the o-ring (the stripe goes out), then wipe out the pump opening with a lint free rag. Insert a phillips screw driver through one of the bolt holes in the pump to line it up, and slide it back into the case making sure the filter and TCC bores line-up correctly. Once you get down to the o-ring, make sure that the pump body is level, and GENTLY draw it down with the bolts. Alternate bolts as you draw it down, and turn the input shaft after each bolt to make sure it turns. Once the bolts get snug, torque them to 20ftlbs and re-check the input shaft. It should turn, and have little end play. It it has more than the thickness of two normal paper clips, make sure you installed the thrust washer on the back of the pump. If the washer is there, let me know, that will be more involved. Install the TCC solenoid and switch if removed, NEW filter and pan gasket. Don't use any silicone or other glue on the gasket. It should be installed dry, it will seal better, and will have less chance of splitting out. Remember, when you install the converter, you should not be able to get you fingers between the pump and the converter. If you can, it is not in far enough. If you are doing this with the trans lying on the floor or bench, be VERY careful not to let the input drum and reverse drum slide forward. If they do, you won't be able to get the pump back in and tight without the input shaft locking up. The best way to do this is to have it standing on the tail shaft or in a small barrel that holds it plumb. If you have any questions, let me know. I'm headed out to the garage for awhile to make some floor panels for the Camaro. I'll check back after 6pm.

 

that was another question i had....as far as standing the transmission up on end....will anything be messed up if it is on an engine stand and turned upside down? i always hear horror stories about ballbearings of somesort in the valve body that can fall out...sounds a lil stretched....but i'm sure not turning it upside down unless i know for sure.

 

New problem...I just tried removing the pump. I did as said...i removed the tcc and reached in with a flat head and tried to gently pry the pump out the front...then i tried a little harder and not so gently...then i tried as hard as i could untill the screw driver bent...not a small one either, and yes i was alternating sides to avoid wedging the pump. Nothing ever moved..also a problem i see with this is that i can only really get to the bottom of the pump...wont this, in the case that it actually moves, just wedge the pump even worse, as the top is not being brought out in sequence.

 

If the pump gets wedged, just tap it back down with the handle on your hammer, the work it up slowly. If it hasn't moved, try to pry up on both sides while someone else gently taps around the pump with the handle of you hammer. You need to get the screwdriver in as far as you can to get the most leverage. Every so often I get one that's stuck pretty good. It usually takes two of us to work it out of the case. I pry while my son taps with the hammer. As far as bearings falling out, there aren't any to worry about unless the vb is off, and you won't have to do that. If you have a jig made up so the output shaft is vertical, that's perfect. The best way to have the trans when you are pulling the pump out is the output shaft pointing straight down. PM me if you can't get it and I'll send you my cell phone number....

Billy

 

thanx alot...ill get on it in the mornin...work is snowed out!!!!!