Rebuild or Buy
#1
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,439
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
Rebuild or Buy
Well, my transmission is dying, and the ATF smells burnt and is quite dark. It's also whining at certain speeds, and we checked the differential, and the u-joints. It's on it's way out, and I was wondering, would I be better off rebuilding it, or buying a remanufactured?
If I do rebuild it, I know it would be the cheapest way, as the most I've seen for a rebuild kit is $200. I've seen a few FAQ's about what to do while you rebuild it, other than stuff that's included in the rebuild kit. Like enlarging holes in the plate in the valve body, changing different valves with newer parts that fixed problems, just all those little things not included in the kit. Firstly, does anyone know of a FAQ that lists all these little things that add performance and increase reliability, and secondly, who should I buy the kit from, and should I go with these 9 clutch 3-4 packs and racing steels and stuff.
If I buy a remanufactured one, who should I buy from? I like the BowtieOverdrives, but I've seen a lot of people swear by ProBuilt and Raptor and was wondering what the best bang for my buck and customer service is.
Thank yous in advance.
If I do rebuild it, I know it would be the cheapest way, as the most I've seen for a rebuild kit is $200. I've seen a few FAQ's about what to do while you rebuild it, other than stuff that's included in the rebuild kit. Like enlarging holes in the plate in the valve body, changing different valves with newer parts that fixed problems, just all those little things not included in the kit. Firstly, does anyone know of a FAQ that lists all these little things that add performance and increase reliability, and secondly, who should I buy the kit from, and should I go with these 9 clutch 3-4 packs and racing steels and stuff.
If I buy a remanufactured one, who should I buy from? I like the BowtieOverdrives, but I've seen a lot of people swear by ProBuilt and Raptor and was wondering what the best bang for my buck and customer service is.
Thank yous in advance.
Last edited by TheScaryOne; 12-22-2006 at 02:25 AM. Reason: Removed Dead Link
#3
My 86 trans went out, and im in the process of rebuilding it a freind of mine. I just bought the rebuild kit and it came out to be 450 w/ labor from my freind i wouldnt recomend you do it by yourself unless you know what your doing. Also i've seen some rebuilds that has a warranty on them, i would look into those if i where you incase you mess up. You can get them for about 600.
#4
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Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
How hard is it to rebuild? It's pretty much just taking it apart and putting it back together, checking clearances and stuff, right?
#5
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,367
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From: Nanticoke, Pa
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
The first 700 that I built took me 35 hours to do. I have improved my time because I have done many. I spend 15-20 hours on a performance build. 4 or 5 are spent cleaning. The 700 is without a doubt, one of the hardest transmissions to overhaul.
#6
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 17
From: Cary, North Carolina
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I haven't personally bought one yet, but after 3 years of reading posts in here, I've never seen a bad word about Pro Built Automatics - when my money gets right that's where I'm headed. All of the others have had bad reviews from someone here and there, and some more than others. Never seen a cross word about Pro Built.
#7
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iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 1987 IROC-Z Camaro
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27 BW
So I bit the bullet and took it to a local tranny shop. They got it pulled today, and let me see the parts. Take note than I only know what half of the names are, but I do know how they fail. My input drum had an (almost) broken off part inside of it, one of the planet gears in the planetary gearset (probably lower, didn't look too hard) was hanging onto the retainer by what felt like only a few pounds of holding pressure, my reaction carrier was no longer a single piece, but it came apart in several pieces. I think my input shaft got hot to the point of large burn colorations in the metal, and another drum-looking part with a gear inside of the top almost had the gear separate. Theory of failure? Torque Converter failure which released all of it's stored sediment and the like into the rest of the tranny, clogging off some lines which got it WAY too hot. They were still pumping crap outta my cooler lines when I left. On the plus side? I now have a freaking awesome tranny cooler.
1200 + Hardparts.
1200 + Hardparts.
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#8
Yep, and that 700 held up, and performed flawlessley!!! You da man, Pete!
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