wiggin

Going to be doing a trany swap here pretty soon from a 700R4, whats the overall price difference after the project is done between the T-5 and the T-56?

Also, I'm in LA and the junkyards are pretty picked clean, where would be a good place to get either of these trany's?

simz28

iTrader: (10)

This is a great place to look and also camaroz28.com. Your definately going to pay more for the t56, but it is more than worth it for the added strength. I was deciding between the t5 and the t56 when i chaned to stick and i am extremely happy with my t56.

TBI92Camaro

T56 hands down. Why go through the pain for a stick only to put n a fragile T5. Plus, from what Ive seen, everyone in the F-body word thinks T5's are gold.....which they arent. Trust me, spend the cash, snag a T56 from a 94-97 LT1 car and swap it in. Its worth it, trust me!

wiggin

yeh, pretty much have my mind made up on the T56, but I cant find a good place to get one. The junkyards around me dont have any. Anyone have a good idea to pick one up thats already been rebuilt for a good price?

simz28

iTrader: (10)

it took me a long time to find a good one that i could pick up. Finally found one with a fresh rebuild and new clutch 30 minutes away. the only thing i can say is keep looking, ebay can help too.

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

me personally im sticking with my 5 speed and sending it to Tom over at TKO to have it built. IMO i cant justify the added weight and a .50 final drive (6th gear) that is almost useless. i went from a .73 in my orig 5 speed to swapping trannys when it let go to a .63 in the replacement. the differnce was waaaaaaaaaaaaaay noticeable. the drop from 4th to 5th is huge. granted a .63 is still on that fine line of over revving and burning extra gas and lugging and burning extra gas but for me its too much of a drop. i can only imagine wha a .50 final drive is like.
the only time a .50 is even close to useful is uo around 85 and then it starts having any TQ to malance the fule bun/economy line. but thats just me.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

Lot of strong points brought up by QUICKCHICKEN I will also add the clutches are expensive and first gear is really high at 2.66 so a rear gear change would be needed if you want to get full use out of that tranny.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

this is my plan when i get some cash, t-56, bottem gear is 2.66, top gear is .63. il jsut match that to 4.10 rear gears. for us auto guys, i think the 700r4 is bottem 3.06 and top is 1.1. thats why they have the 3.23 and 3.27s. with this setup you get best of everything, good pull and not bad gas milage. this is what il be doing in my car. i thought i would add it in to the convo. the only thing i can see wrong with it, the 4.10s might make some noise on the highway. any thoughts on that?

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

i was told that final drive is .50 on a T-56. now im gonna do more research as that bit of info came from a 4th genner.

wiggin

What kinda of budget should I look at setting aside for the auto to t56 swap??

QUICKCHICKEN

iTrader: (12)

from what i have seen prep to spend around $2000. that should be everything and get one from a 93-97 car and get EVERYTHING from that car.
also contact this guy http://skulte.com/ Andrias Skulte, he will have the needed crossmember and also has cross over info on his site. most likely when you call you will be talking to him and he is a super nice guy to deal with. he himself is a hard core third genner. tell him the long haird guy at the memphis event sent ya, he will know EXACTLY who yuor talkin about.

simz28

iTrader: (10)

I ended up payin 1300 for the trans and clutch, just 4k on rebuilt trans and a spec stage 3 clutch, plus the guy threw in a aluminum driveshaft. i went with the spohn crossmember for $110, then with the clutch hydraulics and pedals, i spent about $1500 total. But i think thats was a steal for what i got. i didnt have much of a budget either as a young third genner after an unexpected blown 700r4, you can find deals out there, but your gonna have to be patient. I still have in my 2:70 gears and they bring down the car bad, but still better that the auto, plans for 4:10's asap

simz28

iTrader: (10)

one was just listed today
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...t1-t-56-a.html

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

After what seemed like my hundredth T-5 rebuild in this car, I finally quit enjoying that and got myself a T-56.

I gave $1000 for a transmission, bell housing, fork, and shifter. I think mine is a 96 or a 97.

Then I had to get a crossmember and torque arm, flywheel (mine is a 2-pc RMS motor), clutch, decent shifter, hydraulics from GM, JTR ext hsg conversion for my cable speedo, and misc little hardware and stuff. I wasn't in a hurry when I did mine, I guess I accumulated stuff for a year or 2, alot of it used, as it just sort of showed up; I probably had $2100-2200 in it by the time I could drive it. Somebody else might get by on ALOT less $$$, or ALOT more, depending on what they're putting it into, what they're willing to tolerate used, and how much of a hurry they're in.

Shagwell

T56 can be had with either the .63 or the .50 OD. I believe they all have the .80 5th gear. They can also be had with a 2.97 low gear, but the 2.66 is in the closer ratio trans, and is said to be stronger. - I'll be running a gear somewhere in the area of 4.10 - 4.56, so the .50 OD and 2.66 1st are fine by me. I won't need 6th in town, but the .80 5th will be fine, 6th will be great on the highway.

- FYI to everyone wanting to go deeper than a 3.73 rear gear; It's hard to keep a 10-bolt alive with any smaller than the 3.73 pinion gear. The same amount of flex translates to more slack with the smaller pinion, thus it's easier to skip which equal breakage. The smaller pinion also induces more flex, so that makes it that much worse. I wouldn't even attempt it w/o a solid pinion spacer and a girdle type cover.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's about the same as my experience. My T-56 is the 2.66 1st gear version with the .50 6th. I just have the stock gears in my car still (only 3.73), wish I had more, I'd say that's about the minimum to really "enjoy" a T-56, given that its 1st 2nd & 3rd are about the same as the old 4-speeds that all came with 3.73s or thereabouts. I use 1-5 around town, and don't hit 6th until about 60-65 mph, and even then, it's pretty useless for anything but long straight steady cruising.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

i herd that putting anything over a 4.10 in your rear end would make it noisy on the highway. like a whiny noise. anyone have any info for this guy about that. i to am worried about that. also with a stock 10 bolt, you can buy the 4.10 gear, but from what i have herd, as soon as you do this, save up for a new rear end because its only time before you floor it and it gives out.
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oh and i also herd if you put in a standard tranny, you should put in a blow up sheild. thats my name for it anyway. i just herd if your clutch goes when your a wot, then you could get really hert from clutch going everywhere. like loose your legs and stuff. i dunno if thats a myth, jsut what i herd from a local guy who has a 2001 900rwhp vett down the street from me. anyone got any info on that to?

Shagwell

There's no reason for a properly set-up 4.10, or lower for that matter, to make any more noise than any other gear. But yes, as I stated before, it's hard to make anything lower than a 3.73 stay together in the 7.5" 10-bolts. The smaller the pinion is, the more likely it is push away from the ring gear (flex) and break. The smaller pinion also means less contact area with the ring gear, therefore it's already more prone to break, even without the added stress/flex.

dave-92gta

iTrader: (1)

ok, that sounds good to me. i was told that they can make a noise, the same noise when you reverse to fast. and its not like im going to be driving super fast anyway, with those gears its more of a launch car, but i also want to take it out onto the freeway at speeds of 80mph, and i dont want to have a noisey rear end.