burntblues

I'm getting a ford 9 inch from moser with the axle's, etc. I know that I need a carrier and a case as well as the ring and pinion. What else do I need? Can I use the same yoke or what do I have to do to get this thing to fit up to the stock driveshaft? I'm hoping to do a lot of this pretty cheap, so all help is definatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

AlkyIROC

You Moser package will be the housing and axles.

You'll need to supply a complete center section with a carrier that has the same spline count as the axles you ordered, 28, 31 etc. You can go pull one from a junk yard and use it if you want but you may not find a gear ratio you want or a gear ratio on a carrier with the proper spline count. You may not even find a center section with a posi (GM term). A GM yoke will not fit on a Ford diff but a simple conversion u-joint can mate the driveshaft to the diff.

Brakes. You'll need to find some sort of brake system. What bolt pattern did you get the axles in? GM 5 on 4-3/4" will allow you to use GM brakes and wheels however GM brakes will not directly fit onto a Ford diff without some modifications. What axle ends does the Moser housing come with? You could get it with GM ends to make installing GM brakes easier. My diff has Ford 11 x 2-1/4" drum brakes and Ford bolt pattern for a super simple brake alternative. My rims have dual bolt pattern so they'll fit on Chev or Ford and my new rims are just Ford bolt pattern.

Trying to save money by just buying the housing/axle package may seem like a good idea at first but when you realize how much everything else adds up, it can be still cheaper to spend it all at once and get a complete bolt in package.

burntblues

The moser housing says its built for the 82-92 camaro/firebird. I know that that means that the necessary brackets for mounting the axle into the car are welded where they need to be. I assumed that that meant that it came the proper axle housing ends as well. Am I wrong? I see that moser has housing ends that accept ford bearings but will still accept most chevy brake setups. I have no problem using the stock drum brakes from my car and then being able to swap the lines directly over to this housing. If I have to I'll toss in the extra 80 bucks for those ends and some more for the machining/welding for moser to weld those ends on. I can upgrade the brake package later, I would think, if I start making more money.

Do you know of any places that have center chunk assemblies fairly reasonably priced?
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Thanks for the help!
Mike

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

You have to pick which housing ends you want with it, think there is a ford option with use with ford brakes and a 93 and up housing ends for the newer f-body cars. I ordered my moser rear through spohn for use with my stock brakes with modding. Basically it's just the ford big ends turned 90* and then I have to mod my rear backing plates to fit, was kind of a pain in the butt.

burntblues

Ok, I bought a ford 9 inch built by Danny Miller Racing. Its a custom unit for the FBodies w/ torque arm setups and was about a $100 cheaper than the moser unit I was looking at initially. They put on the Ford drum brake setup and I simply ordered a complete set of ford drum brakes to go with it. The setup comes with a set of Moser axles. The brakes and the axles will be fit for the standard metric lugs so I can simply use my same lug nuts and keep my stock wheels. All in all, I spent around 1200 for that setup, then another 160-180 for shipping. Good deal?

Now, how about a 3rd member for a 9" with 31 spline axles?

SDIF

Mike, you are in Charlotte right?

Go to Muscle Motorsport in Huntersville 704-948-1040 and get a rebuilt winston cup center section or call Denny Wade at WD Wade and Company at 704-596-0210. Denny does great work and builds alot of the cup center sections.

Either source can set you up at a price better than I could find elsewhere and no ship charges since you can be at either place in 1/2 hour. Also you can get almost any ratio that you want.

WD Wade has the best service I have experienced and you will NOT have any issues with his center section he does not deal in Junk.

AlkyIROC

Did they drill the axles and drums for the Chev or Ford bolt pattern? Does it come with hard and flex line brake hose or will you need to change it around from metric to standard flares? Are you going to use park brake cables? Just making you aware that there's a lot more involved than simply bolting in a diff.

As for a third member, depends exactly what you want. You can go really cheap and pull one from a junkyard diff and simply drop it in. The chances of finding a posi (GM term) in the junkyard is possible but slim. It's also possible you can find a 3.50 gear ratio but my guess would be you'll only find a 3.00 as the deepest set. Best case you'll find is the standard, typical, used for many years, C7AW-E. Whatever yoke is on the pinion will need a conversion u-joint to attach the driveshaft. There's also a couple of different length yokes. Will the driveshaft be the correct length?

http://www.kevinstang.com/Ninecase.htm

Don't get all hyped up about needing an N case. Although it has a higher iron content, it's not really the best case to use when you consider what's available now in the aftermarket and it uses the smallest bearings (will still work with 31 spline axles). If you want to save some weight, buy a Strange aluminum case for $325 off Ebay. You'll still need gears and a carrier which can still be pulled from a junkyard diff. It's not hard to add an extra $1000 building up a good center section. Case, gears, posi, bearing and installation kit, etc. A complete junkyard center section just to get you going should be less than $50. Just make sure it's the proper spline count.

The case in my car is a C7AW-E and I don't have a Daytona pinion support. It's possible it could fail at any time but it's survived well so far.

burntblues

Actually, I've just recently moved to Asheville, but hey, its still close enough where I would take the drive down and pick something up. Thanks for the numbers, I'll drop them a line.

The axles and drums were drilled for the chevy bolt pattern so my wheels should bolt up. The drum brake setup is supposed to be setup so I can use my hardlines and my parking brake cable with zero modification (these guys say they've started doing a ton of these conversion rear axles, but who knows, they could be BS'ing me.)

I was thinking about pulling a diff out of the junkyard with an open rear and 3.00 garbage gears and then swapping in something a little hotter for a gear ratio and putting in something like a powertrax locker so I can just maintain the open case. The thing worked really well in my 10 bolt.

Relating to yokes the guy was saying that there is a yoke out there that will allow us to retain standard length driveshafts. He said I need one that when installed extends about 4 7/8 or 5" from the face of the pinion carrier. Have you heard any of that to be true? He also said that there is one out there that even lets you retain the standard ujoint which seemed a little odd.
Thanks for the advice on the C7AW-E case. I didn't really know too much about the cases and saw that they had WAR cases, N cases, etc. but didn't know the difference. I already pretty well ruled out the Strange Case just because it seems like I could pull a used case and make that work. I think I may have said it before, but the car is just a street car that I occasionally take to the strip so saving every ounce isn't of concern, I'm more worried about being able to leave the light fast and hard on my way home from the store without hearing the chunking sound of a blown rear end.

One quick question. I know that on the GM carriers they have a 2 series and a 3 series carrier. Using a 3.00 up ratio gear on a 2 series carrier dramatically weakens the gear (one of the problems I've had). Do they distinguish between carrier/ring size for Ford model carriers? What is the setup time like on the third member? I was kind of thinking about getting two sets of gears and simply swapping in a deeper set when I wanted to go to the track and maybe switching in a lighter gear for around town. I know I could probably just get to carriers and keep two setup and swapped out, but I'm on a budget.

Thanks!
Mike

AlkyIROC

The 9" only has one series carrier. You find a carrier with 2.50 gears on it and you can put 3.50, 4.56 or 6.00 on it.

Swap time is around an hour. Depends how fast you work.

Put the car up on jack stands
drop the driveshaft
pull the rear wheels off so you can pull the axles
unbolt and remove center section, catching all the oil
reverse the order to install
refill diff

My housing has a drain plug on the bottom and a large fill plug on the top.

burntblues

ahhh great! I've setup a 10 bolt a few times but that was such a hassle. It took me way longer than an hour to set that thing up, but I figured with this carrier sitting on the table it couldn't be too bad because I wouldn't be laying on a cold shop floor....

I didn't get this diff w/ a drain plug because I figured I could always tap and add my own. I was wondering though about filling it though because most of the pictures you see don't show a fill plug. I know on the ten bolt you just fill to the bottom of the fill plug. What is the capacity on the 9 inch? Any special rear diff fluid you recommend or just the standard gear lube I used in my chevy diff?