_BANDIT_

Hi, I wolud like to know, what's the difference between TH350 and TH400 apart from the fact that TH400 is stronger, endures more torque, but also takes a little more horsepowers away.

Thanks!

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

you pretty much got all the basics.

85T/A

hey if you build a 350 right itll hold just as much as a 400 and not lose as much HP

AlkyIROC

Trying to compare a TH350 to a TH400 would be like asking if a TH350 is better than a Ford C4. There's too many differences between each. Thay all have good and bad points. A small weak tranny can be built up to take the abuse of a stronger better tranny but at a much greater cost.

Internally between the TH350 and TH400, the TH400 wins but because of it's beefed up internals, it also takes more HP to spin the internals. A typical TH350 uses up 36 hp while a typical TH400 uses 44 hp. The TH400 is cheap to beef up even more than a stock tranny while a TH350 takes more to make it as good as a typical TH400.

There's also a slight weight consideration. A typical TH350 is 115 pounds while a typical TH400 is 130 pounds.

_BANDIT_

Firstly I'd like to thank you for your answers, they are of great value to me.


At the moment I have a 383 stroker with aprox. 400WHP+200HP nitrous with TH350 (installed TCI Master racing overhaul kit + B&M transpak shift kit) and 10 bolt 7.5" Auburn Gear Pro series LSD with 3.23 gear ratio and stock axles. Quarter mile drag run was 12.19 (ET) and I think that I've reached the limit of current material.

I'm now thinking about installing a Whipple supercharger. I guess that because of that I should install TH400 and at least 10 bolt 8.5" Powertrax or Detroit locker locking differential and aftermarket 28 or 30 spline axles.

Due to all written above, I would like to know the differences between TH350 and TH400. As I come from Europe, it's hard to get any useful advice, because there's no one here with much experience regarding these matthers.

I'm sure that there will be many more questions to ask you guys, because you know best. Thank you very much in advance and I'm looking foreward to any useful replies.

Thanks again!

One of my runs http://www.mobisux.com/album/data/500/51346camaro_vs_nismo.avi

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

first we have 7.5" 10 bolts, and I do not believe that they would hold up to 600rwhp at the track on a launch. Furthermore a 12.19 ET is indicative of maybe 425hp at the motor not the rear tires, soon you'll be spitting out 10 bolts left and right if it hooks. Buy a 9" or 12 bolt from aftermarket then worry about that trans selection.

_BANDIT_

I did a 12.18 ET but 60ft was 2.95 because of bad traction on a street track as can be seen on the video. I also have some problems with the carb when flooring it at the start - the engine bogs down for a moment.
So I must take it easy when launching. I borrowed some 225/50R15 BF drag radials (the best I could get at the moment) and they did hold the 200 shot of nitrous in first gear. 100 yards before the end of the track the engine was in redline at 6500 rpm and 125 mph in third , calculated on the gear ratio and tire size.

Will this drivetrain hold this power with this kind of soft launching? I can not expect better then 2.0 - 2.2 60ft on our tracks, most on small airports or back roads.

The plan is to go with a whipple supercharger and 550-600WHP and 750-800WHP with 200 shot of nitrous.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

No, drivertrain won't stand up.
Aftermarket rear end should be your first investment, as stated.
Also, probably a stronger driveshaft, and safety loop.

Sounds like you need much taller tires, or a lower numerical gear ratio, if you're hitting redline before the end of the track.

Then the TH-400

Shagwell

they also have different ratios in 1st and 2nd gear. - A mild T400 will take as much as a highly modded T350.
We were running a decent T400 in the blower car(approx 1200hp), 5.1X's @ 145+ in the 1/8, went 1.20 60ft @ 70mph from a dead idle when the t-brake wasn't co-operating, it took it fine, and we still had many more things we could have done to strengthen it.
First thing first, TCI and B&M aren't even close to the best builders/parts for either trans. If you're looking at 400+whp, then you might as well step up the a T400 and start from there. As stated, though, the rear will probably let go long before the trans. - Installing a 8.5" 10-bolt takes either an aftermarket suspension system or a homemade custom tq arm mount(mw66nova is working on this I believe). Unless you're a good designer/fabricator, just get a 12-bolt or a 9" built thats built for the 3rd gen suspension. You'll be much better off in the long run.

_BANDIT_

Firstly I'd like to thank you for your answers.

According to your advice I've checked a bit what can be acquired in my country. I've found two useful items: 9" Ford rear end from an old van and 8.8" form a Ford E150 Econoline. Which one is better? Probably 9"?
Do you by any chance know if there are any instructions for modification of 9" so that it would fit into my car.
It will probably be necessary to shorten both ends of the housing and weld holders for torque arm, springs, etc... Shortening of axles isn't a problem I guess...
What's with the gear ratio? In Summit catalogue I saw that the lowest numerical gear ratio that they have is 3.50. I would need 3.23 or something similar. How can I solve this problem.

I've also found one stock TH400. What must be modified for it to withstand such power? If you think that TCI isn't that good, what do you recommend?

Thank you!

Shagwell

An 8.8, like a 10-bolt, is a cast housing thus is very difficult to attempt to attach the tq arm to. A 9" is steel, thus you can weld to it, but once again, unless you have a good fabrication skills, it is difficult to put a factory production unit under our cars.
- Tq arm mount, control arm mounts, spring/shock mounts, panhard mount, brakes... If you go this route, plan on trashing your current 10-bolt and cutting the tabs/brackets off of it and welding them to the 9" housing. I say trash it because it would be much better to cut into the axle tubes than to over cut the brackets you'll be needing. You would still need to fabricate or buy the tq arm mount, which would also have to be welded to the housing. Yes, the axle tubes would have to be shortened, so you'll need to buy aftermarket axles. The tube/bearing ends would either need to be modified to allow you to run your current braking system, or you'll have to find a brake system that fits the Ford housing flange.
All things said and done, unless you have the ability and the skills to do most of this yourself, everything added up makes the moser/strange/currie 3rd gen housing package pretty cheap, and it's better than anything ford ever produced.

As for the gear, performance oriented car, why would you want to stick with the 3.23? If you need that short of rear gear to stay in power down the track, you'd be better off switching to taller rear tires. - Anyhow, you can find 9" gears from like 2.50-7.90

For the T400, all you would need for that power is good clutch packs, the higher element roller sprag(34 sounds right.....it's been a while since I've built a 400) and good valve body kit. - Is this a daily or often driven car? For street, get a good valve body kit(shift improver). For a mostly race application, I'd go with a manual valve body. For a race only, manual vb with a trans-brake.