ryane88

say... a 3000rpm stall converter

i never knew completely how these work

but correct me if im wrong... they only stall that high at WOT correct?

and then say it needs to idle at 900 rpm... it stalls at 1200rpm at part throttle?

am i correct.... even close??

3.8TransAM

Depends a cheap crappie one will not move the car until 2k-2.5k and spin up to 3k before getting under way well.

A nice tight 3k stall from someone like Precision Vigilante or Yank might cost more but makes up for it in droveability and efficiency.

they are known as tight converters and will still move the car out well without spinning to the moon on takeoff while driving.

There is a reason they are 600-700$ they drastically outperform the cheaper alternatives.

later
Jeremy

AlkyIROC

Here's some torque converter information you should read first

http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/torqueconverters.html
http://www.hardtail.com/techtips/sel...converter.html

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Typically when you go up in stall speed, it is desireable to have a smaller converter body. It is a more efficient way of raising stall speed than changing the pitch on the pump in say a 12" converter. My Yank truck 2,800 is only 11" in diameter. For a car they are around 10".

ryane88

that doesn't help me any... lol

if its a tight 3k stall converter

if i go WOT say around 3k it takes off and all hell breaks loose

but if i take off easy it'll stall nice and easy say at 2500 w/o chiprin tires or whiplash

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

A tight 2,800 RPM converter will pull well at part throttle, all the way down at 1,200 rpm. I can pull away from a stop at 1,200 rpm with ease or hammer it go to 2,800 then all hell breaks loose.