I just figured I would post up the steps to do a wheel bearing replacemnet on a 10 bolt since I just finished.

1.Jack up the rear of the car and support on jack stands.
2.Remove wheels
3.Remove calipers(leave hoses hooked up), remove rotors.
4.With a 1/2" socket remove the 10 differential cover bolts ( be sure to have something to catch the old fluid).
5.Now turn the axles so that you see the rod that goes through the center of the carrier, remove the 5/16 bolt holding it in and pull the rod out.
6.Have somebody push in on the axle shafts and pull the c clips out with a set of needle nose plyers.They will actually fall out.
7.Pull the old seal off of the end of the axle tubes.
8.With a slide hammer/axle bearing puller, slide the 3 prong head into the axle tube so that the teeth are on the inside of the wheel bearing.Screw in slide hammer till the 3 prongs are tight against the bearing and start the process of pulling it out.This took me less than 30 seconds to remove each bearing.
9.Next use a piece of wood or something soft and tap the new bearing into place, followed by the new seal.
10.Just follow the steps backwards from from #6 and then fill with gear oil.

I hope this helps some of the people who have never done it before, sorry I forgot to take pics.

 

Looks good, except for the slide hammer part. That's a bunch of pointless work. I HATE work. So here's how to avoid that nasty stuff in the future.

The best way to do that is to take a 6' piece of ¾" galvanized water pipe, stick it through the axle tubes, catch it on the back of the bearing, and knock the bearing and seal out together.

It actually took longer to type that than it takes to do both sides that way.

 

That doesn'treally work with the carrier still in place.

 

It took about a minute total for both sides, how is that "pointless work"?

 

The carrier is NOT in the way; after all, the axles go right through it. As long as your pipe is smaller than an axle, it works fine. I've only been doing it that way now for 30 or 35 years or so, and I haven't come across a C-clip rear yet, that it didn't work on.

The slide hammer is pointless extra work, because it takes many times longer than just sticking a pipe through a rear and whacking it with a hammer. You gotta pull the seal, dink around with it setting it up, maybe go rent it and take it back, etc. etc. etc.

 

Ok, well the slide hammer works well and if you don't have a 6' piece of pipe that is smaller than the axle shaft it's easy enough to pick up a rental puller do the job and return it.

 

You just really like that slide hammer business, don't you?

Try it once my way. Once you've tried it, you'll never go back to your work-intensive way. I guarantee it.

 

I tried it that way but the pipe wasn't small enough so it wasn't even hitting the bearing.

 

Well OK, enjoy the extra work. I sure don't.

 

Will do,thanks.

 

Incidentally, the cover bolts are ½", and the cross shaft pin is 5/16". I always use a 5/16" 6-point box-end wrench, to avoid the possibility detailed on here frequently by people who use other tools, of rounding it off. I also push in the axle with one hand while doing the C-clip with the other.... can't remember when the last time I had another person around while doing one of these was. The wood thing for putting in the seal is ABSOLUTELY the best way; I use a 6" piece of 2x4, and one good whack with a BFH. If you try to tap the seal in around the edge, you WILL bend it, and it WILL leak. It's a good idea to take some medium grit sandpaper to the axles where the bearing rides on them; about 240 or 320 works good, followed by some 400 or 600; especially where the seal goes. If the axles have enough wear that you can catch a fingernail on it AT ALL, then the new bearings WILL wipe out; so if the axles are ANYTHING LESS THAN PERFECT, replace them now, or you will be replacing both the bearing - again - AND the wasted axle, soon.

 

I pushed the shafts in myself to get the clips out but my wife was there when installing had her do it.

 

Why did you replace?
My 86 Iroc has a pretty good roar and I thiink I need ot replace the bearings.
How did you figure the wheel bearings needed replaced and not the carrier bearings? Any help is appreciated

 

i have a slide hammer, but it isn't assembled so it'd take me a few minutes to get it together. i also only have black iron pipe and not galvinized can i use the black iron or do i need to go to Jerry's Do-It-Center for the right pipe?

 

I could hear the bearing popping (sounded like pop corn) at the driverside wheel coming to a stop or coasting.I noticed when I got it all back together that my shafts are infact bent and I can still move the wheel up and down (very minimal though).

 

I didn't have any luck with the pipe idea.... I used copper pipe, which was pretty weenie (thin wall). I mangled the end of it, as my bearings were in there good. I also had to use a wheel chock as a hammer, as my hammer wasn't big enough to get the force I needed. Picture that one, pretty funny actually...
.
.
I ended up knocking every single one of the rollers out of one bearing, and the bearing didn't come out. Nothing left of the pipe either. Had to rent a slide hammer, worked well.

 

87tpi,
Hmmm, I have a clicking/popping sound coming from my rearend and it seems to be coming from my driverside...I replaced my u-joints on my driveshaft thinking they were 25 years old on my 88 IROC Convertible. Still get that clicking/popping sound coming from the rear when I am in reverse and backing up and now you have given me reason to think it is my axle bearing... I have to replace my driver side axle shaft anyway due to someone running me off the road and now my drivers side axle is bent.
Any other things to be on the lookout for???

Fivestar

 

Not a whole lot really. It's a pretty straightforward job. Obviously you'll have the brakes off and apart, so it's a great time to give those any attention they might be begging for; and of course new rear end fluid.

Since you'll have the rear axle up in the air, and stuff all apart and out of the way, it'd also be a great time to replace the springs, shocks, sway bar end links & bushings, rubber brake lines, etc.; basically anything that's exposed and accessible, that you want to renew.

I'd suggest these axles here. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sag-ev10-4

Per ede's question up there, black iron pipe might work, but it also might shatter. I'd strongly recommend galvanized. Did one not too long ago... the worst part of the axle bearing part of that job, was finding the bearings when they came out and went flying into the yard. Took longer to hunt em down than it did to remove em.

 

Thanks sofaking,
I would like to look at servicing/replacing some of the items you mentioned but I am on a budget crunch right now and just need to get the IROC back on the road... Just found a 16" rear rim to replace the severely damaged rim. Add to that weather right now in Colorado and other parts of the country are generally below zero and barely gets up above single digits... may have to wait a few days till it gets into the 30's

Fivestar

 

By the way I just received today a replacement axle shaft that I ordered from TA Creations, great condition only $30 and they are the correct 26 Spline shafts for my car.

Fivestar

 

Yeah I'm in the Midwest ATM, temps not too different from that... no excuses though, life goes on... around here we don't "wait" much because you might find yourself "waiting" for months... must be nice to live in a place that you can look forward to it warming up in only a few days

Best o luck to ya!!

 

Yeah you are right about waiting but I am fortunate enough that I have other vehicles I can drive. I do not drive the IROC much when we have this kind of snow and ice on the roads, seems to be sticking around and staying on the roads. Oh well even though we are not expecting to get up past single digits for the next few days we still get sunshine and that is just another reason I retired in Colorado...

Fivestar

 

i bought a rearend from a 2000 v6 camaro.removing the cover i discovered richmond gears.i found this strange being a v6 car.anyway i installed this in my car.the problem is the rear has a roar.i pulled the axles.one has minor grooves,the other has one pit.im searching for used axles.meanwhile the axle bearings look perfect to me.im wondering if when they changed the gears,maybe they also replaced the axle bearings?how do i tell if the axle bearings are good?

 

The axle IS the inner race of the bearing.

Therefore if the axles are bad, the bearings are too; and vice-versa.

The bearings are super cheeeeeeeep anyway. Prolly less than $25 for the whole set of bearings and seals. No sense in re-using them regardless.

 

Try TA Creations, they have axles for all sorts of Camaros' and TA's. He is very knowledgeable and more than willing to help with any questions you may have.

Fivestar

 

Looking for some guidance sofaking... Got the car up and remove the wheel, brakes and diff cover. The 5/16 bolt has become a bear to move and get out...cannot get a socket and ratchet on the head as goes on at an angle...(it is a 6 point socket). went out this evening to look for a six point 5/16 or 8mm box end wrench but not able to find one so late in the evening. I fear I rounded one edge of the bolt and will look for a 6 point box end wrench at NAPA when they open... Any advice you can give a frustrated car guy... By the way the design/location and poor access of that diff bolt is madening!!!

Fivestar

 

87 TPI what method/tool did you use to loosen and remove the 5/16 bolt? I am having a helluva time just getting a socket with ratchet. I am using a 6 point socket but cannot get a straight line/seating on the bolt head. going out tomorrow to try and locate a 6 point box end wrench. I think I have rounded one corner and do not want to make it worse. looking for a little help here.

Fivestar

 

Sears has 6-point box wrenches if memory serves; I think Lowe's does too. Not sure whether NAPA does or not. I have several: I keep em around not only for that, but also for battery terminals.

Use that, plus a hammer. Impact will jar it loose. Most important thing is, to make sure the pin it goes through, is free in the carrier; if it's in a bind (such as would happen in a posi rear if the last thing it did before being jacked up was go around a sharp corner, but can also happen in an open rear from trying to hold the carrier still by the axles) it may grab the end of the little bolt and make it break off at the threads.

 

I am certain you are right about going around a sharp corner while being run off the road (then I struck a median) by a knucklehead who then fled the scene while I was looking over my car. I will be checking with Sears this morning for a box wrench, I checked at Lowes and Home Depot and no luck at either store. I do have those Battery 5/16 wrenches but they are too large around the 'box ends' to fit into the recessed area where the bolt resides. Wish me luck today and thank for your feedback and help.

Fivestar

 

help I cant get the pin out of carrier also axcles slide in out half inch is that a problem

 

The spider gear "pin" is held in with a small bolt. Did you remove the bolt first? Don't strip the head. This bolt is not a hardware store item.

The axles do slide in and out some. I don't know how much is too much. IIRC, the inward sliding distance is limited by the spider gear pin. The outward sliding distance is limited by the "C" clips.

Why are you trying to remove the axles? Also, it might be a better idea to start a new thread.

 

Did you remove the small bolt holding the carrier pin in place? I bought a six point box end end wrench from Sears, keep in mind that if it has never been out that the bolt is in MM so a #8 box end or a 5/16" six point box end will work. (you can find a replacement bolt at Autozone or Advance etc...). then rotate a carrier assembly around till you see the carrier pin then tap it about an inch or so in then rotate the carrier back around so you can see the protuding carrier pin. You should no be able to place a phillips screwdriver into where the small carrier pin bolt hole and pull out the remainder of the carrier pin. Once you do that rotate the carrier until you can see the C Clip then push in the axle from wheel side (I just used my foot while laying on my back to push it inward) then used a magnet do grab onto the C Clip then removed the axleshaft from that side. You are better off to do one side at a time.

Fivestar

 

Need more information. What have you done at this point? Have you removed the retaining bolt? Was the end of the bolt broke off?

I'm sure that your axles are not moving in and out 1/2 inch. If they were then you would have a major problem that would probably make the car un-driveable. What differential is in it? If it's an Auburn then you need to replace the differential because the cones are worn so much that they are allowing the axles to move in and out too much.

 

hay sorry for late reply yes I took bolt holding the pin and taped on pin with drift seems tigh don't wana **** it up. the car is 91 trans am gta 305 tpi pozi rear end with drum brakes. I don't now what reAR END IT IS I WILL GO CHECK

 

SO HOW LOG U THINK I CAN KEEP GOING WITH WAY IT IS? I FINALLY GOT CAR ON ROAD AND THIS HAPPENS . NEW FUEL TANK INJECTORS SENDING UNIT AND PUMP NEW RAD NEW BRAKES REBUILD FLOOR IM CERT WELDER NEW CAT BACK DYNOMAX I GUESS THIS EREELVENT I JUST WANTED TO USE IT FOR SUMMER U CAN HEAR IT WHEN EVER U HIT BUMP UDNO HOW LOG WILL IT GO IF PUT IT BAK TOGATHER

 

It's a 10 bolt if you were able to remove the shaft. The shaft in the 9 bolt doesn't come out. It's going to be an Auburn differential. I think you are going to need to replace it. Axle end play is due to worn out cones.

 

I NEVER GOT THE PIN OUT YET SO MAY BE 9 BOLT I CHECK MRIGHT NOW AND HOW LONG U THINK IT LAST WAY IT IS THE SUMMER LOL KKK 22522678 ON BOTTOM OD DIFF AND IT HAS 10 BOLTS ON DIFF COVER HOW LOG WILL IT LAST 1/4 ON DRIVER SIDE AND 3/16 PAS SIDE

 

It will last as long as you want it to as long as you drive it easy. If you abuse it then you will probably break it. As the clutches wear the gears inside the differential move farther apart, which makes them run closer to the tips of the teeth. This makes the gears much easier to break. The axles will probably stay in there, but if it has disc brakes it's going to cause excess wear on the caliper pins.

 

huh so I need change clutches its not my bearing im probly getting on ur nerves I wich there was a step by stey video onj you tube then I might takle it last question what should I do fix it , use it, if I fix it do I go all out I can sill put t all back together, I need find some one in Sudbury Ontario who could help me do it for a cheap rate

 

Can't change clutches in the Auburn. You have to replace the whole differential. If you decide to replace it I recommend the Eaton Posi or Yukon Dura Grip. The Dura Grip is a little cheaper.

 

so what should I do I cant get that pin out that goes thru the carrier? should I put back togather and use it. if I changed the bearing and shims would it pick up the slack? is it worthe rebuilding a 10 bolt rear or no.t im not good at diffs ovoisly. do u think it last summer if I go eo asy on it. from me doing drifts to me that's what a trans am is for but from me doing drifts is that what cased it to come looser?

 

Nothing is going to fix the axle end play problem except changing the differential. No shims or bearings are going to fix it. If you decide to change it then you will have to do whatever it takes to get the shaft out.

Drifting will probably kill this one. It's probably got a lot to do with the condition that it's in now. Any clutch type limited slip differential is going to have a hard time surviving drifting.

If you are serious about drifting then I recommend a Detroit Locker. They don't use clutch plates or cones, so they don't slip and wear out like most LSDs do. The locker used drivers and couplers with steel teeth that engage to lock it up. They unlock when going around a corner, so they can be used on the street. They do pop and jerk some, so you will have to put up with some noise. They are also kind of expensive.

A little cheaper way would be to use a Richmond Lock Right. They work very much the same as a Detroit Locker, but they are a little cheaper. They are also not quite as strong, but should hold up pretty well. I've put over 140,000 miles on the one in my 4X4 truck.

 

thanks for all the help im busy with work but after the shut down I decided to put it back togather sice im getting married next month going to take easy so it last summer and stay close to home and deal with it in the winter id love to know good pace to buy a diff. I lucked out on injectors at south bay fuel injectors 150 for hole set bosh 3s .so let me now good place to shop thanks for your time big gear head.

 

I was a dealer for Randy's Ring & Pinion for many years, and Tom's Differentials for a few years. Both are good places to buy rear end parts. I was also a dealer for DTS for a while. Another good place for parts.

 

anyone know how to get to the rear wheel bearing in my 84 firebird?

 

if the cover has ten bolts its the same.

 

mines got the drum brakes got tire off brake cover off got slide hammer just not sure if their is anything else i need to do before trying to beat the heck outta my hub lol

 

not 100% sure its the wheel bearing had to change a tire on uneven freeway at night in a rain storm and jack slipped out and car fell on roter got it back up put spareon drove home no problem. next day got new tire put in on went to drive to work and had a LOUD pop like metal noise mainly when hitting bumps cars been sitting while i try to play find the info for 1984 firebirds online.......

 

Figure out first if you have a bent axle. Put the car up securely on jackstands and start the car and put it in gear and watch the rotation or the tire/hub. if everything good there stop the car turn off the engine and check for movement in the axle by grabbing the tire/hub and moving it around. By the way if your bearings are original then they probably need replacing and for that you need to remove the axle shafts. There is a writeup on this and it is not difficult, heck I did both sides and my pinion seal on my differential in five+ hours on a weekend on my 88 Iroc convertible.

Fivestar

 

Did you read this? https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ing-axles.html