v6 t5 to v8 (input shaft)
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Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
v6 t5 to v8 (input shaft)
Well my tranny finally died but I found a WC V6 T5 to use temporarily. I have the V6 clutch disk so I have no problem clutch wise.
The problem is that the input shaft is 1 inch longer than the v8 one. When I bolt it to the bellhousing, it becomes so tight against the crank that you can't even turn the driveshaft.
I know some people have done this before on the board. Unfortunately I can't search for it right now . So what do you all do to address the longer shaft?
The problem is that the input shaft is 1 inch longer than the v8 one. When I bolt it to the bellhousing, it becomes so tight against the crank that you can't even turn the driveshaft.
I know some people have done this before on the board. Unfortunately I can't search for it right now . So what do you all do to address the longer shaft?
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Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Got it done, figured I would say how it was done in case someone else attempts to do this. You have to grind off about .25 - .5 of an inch off of the input shaft.
As far as the clutch, I'm using the 6 cylinder clutch disk temporarily, it is alot smaller than the v8 one but works. I did have to extend the slave cylinder rod about inch.
So you can use the v6 T5's as long as you do what I mentioned above. Just took it for a drive and it works great.
As far as the clutch, I'm using the 6 cylinder clutch disk temporarily, it is alot smaller than the v8 one but works. I did have to extend the slave cylinder rod about inch.
So you can use the v6 T5's as long as you do what I mentioned above. Just took it for a drive and it works great.
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Car: 80 Porsche 924 TURBO
Engine: slant four, turbo
Transmission: 5 speed
hey. i put a v8 in my camaro (which had a v6), and now the clutch wont fully ingage. im using the clutch slave cylinder from the v6, so im geussing the rod is to short? how did you extend it???
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Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
I just took a long starter bolt and cut the head off of it. Make shure you round off the ends. If you don't use a starter bolt, use a bolt that is strong and descently thick. You don't want it to bend on you since there is alot of pressure on it. I had to make a couple of them before I found the right length.
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Car: '91 Z28 convertible
Engine: TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.27 posi disc
If the clutch is not engaging fully, that means there is some residual pressure on it. So either the slave rod is too long or there are other problems in your hydraulic system or bellhousing. Or the clutch is just plain shot (been there, done that).
Hope this helps.
Lou
Hope this helps.
Lou
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Car: 80 Porsche 924 TURBO
Engine: slant four, turbo
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i realy hope the clutch or anything else is screwed, that would suck. thanks for the tips, ill try it out!
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Car: 92 Formula
Engine: 5.0L TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Custom slave cylinder rod
Since I have been getting a few pm's about this, I figured I would post about it for everyone to see if they need it. You have to visualize it since I don't have a jack at school to lift the car and get a pic:
You have the rod coming out of the slave cylinder (mounted on the bellhousing) and pushes against the clutch fork. If you unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, the rod pulls right out.
A starter bolt is close to the thickness of this rod and is also strong since the rod is under alot of pressure when the clutch is pressed. So you cut the head of the bolt off and you have another rod. I rounded off the ends of the bolt with a grinder since the original rod had smooth rounded ends. Also helps to put a little bit of grease on the end that goes back into the slave cylinder.
The length of the starter bolt is entirely up to your clutch setup. You want it just long enough so that the throwout bearing on the clutch fork is just starting to put pressure on the pressure plate. If too long, you will burn out the clutch. If too short, you will have alot of play in the clutch pedal and it won't fully disengage.
I had to push my pedal half way down before I felt any resistance with the original rod. It also wouldn't let my get the tranny into the gear since the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. So I made the bolt 1 inch longer then the original rod and the pedal is perfect now.
Just remember that using a 6 cylinder clutch disk should be a temporarily solution. It is pretty small compared to the v8 one. Get a custom one made. Anyone out there have a links to companies who make custom clutches?
You have the rod coming out of the slave cylinder (mounted on the bellhousing) and pushes against the clutch fork. If you unbolt the slave cylinder from the bellhousing, the rod pulls right out.
A starter bolt is close to the thickness of this rod and is also strong since the rod is under alot of pressure when the clutch is pressed. So you cut the head of the bolt off and you have another rod. I rounded off the ends of the bolt with a grinder since the original rod had smooth rounded ends. Also helps to put a little bit of grease on the end that goes back into the slave cylinder.
The length of the starter bolt is entirely up to your clutch setup. You want it just long enough so that the throwout bearing on the clutch fork is just starting to put pressure on the pressure plate. If too long, you will burn out the clutch. If too short, you will have alot of play in the clutch pedal and it won't fully disengage.
I had to push my pedal half way down before I felt any resistance with the original rod. It also wouldn't let my get the tranny into the gear since the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. So I made the bolt 1 inch longer then the original rod and the pedal is perfect now.
Just remember that using a 6 cylinder clutch disk should be a temporarily solution. It is pretty small compared to the v8 one. Get a custom one made. Anyone out there have a links to companies who make custom clutches?
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