Building The 700R4 What Breaks and What Works
#1
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
Building The 700R4 What Breaks and What Works
Everyone seems to have a different way to build the 700R4, and due to there known bad reputation I think they deserve some board coverage. List what you've had go wrong with your 700's and those who have built them please list what has worked for you. Please don't just respond "do a search you'll find all that info" because when you search for info on these there's alot of conflicting knowledge. I'm just looking for fist hand knowledge and testamonials here. Thanks in advance everyone.
#3
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From: Schererville , IN
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Lost my stall in mine :-)
1100rpm burnouts woot woot Driveway still has marks to prove it lol
Either lost the overrun clutch or the impeller was crashing on the stator(but it never made any bad noises?)
I would recommend using only a quality shift kit type such as Trans GO(which actually addresses issues in the trans vs. merely making it shift hard) and spending the money on a real converter like a Vigilante or equivelant. These two steps will help it last a lot longer.
As far as getting them built correctly, I would personally recommend ProBuilt, he is on the boards here and a super knowledgeable guy to deal with. If your in the Chicago area, Jimmy's Transmissions in Mundelein IL also does outstanding work and he and ProBuilt know each other. How ever you go about it, I would find someone who has the knowledge and has built the trans in question and had them last in the field.
later
Jeremy
1100rpm burnouts woot woot Driveway still has marks to prove it lol
Either lost the overrun clutch or the impeller was crashing on the stator(but it never made any bad noises?)
I would recommend using only a quality shift kit type such as Trans GO(which actually addresses issues in the trans vs. merely making it shift hard) and spending the money on a real converter like a Vigilante or equivelant. These two steps will help it last a lot longer.
As far as getting them built correctly, I would personally recommend ProBuilt, he is on the boards here and a super knowledgeable guy to deal with. If your in the Chicago area, Jimmy's Transmissions in Mundelein IL also does outstanding work and he and ProBuilt know each other. How ever you go about it, I would find someone who has the knowledge and has built the trans in question and had them last in the field.
later
Jeremy
#4
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From: Nanticoke, Pa
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
The reaction shell (or cookie cutter) is the most often briken hard part. The 3-4 clutch pack is usually the first problem that happens when they are worn out. 2-3 shift flare up is another big complaint.
#5
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From: Cincinatti OH
Car: 1991 L03 700r4 RS
Engine: 1987 WS6 Trans AM Lb2
Transmission: Th350 red neck Performance 3k stall
Axle/Gears: 95 Mustang 8.8 built with 3.73s
I'm in South Eastern IN actually 3.8TransAM. I have an experienced trans builder but he's only done the older Th350's and 400's and stock rebuilds on the 700's. He's a friend so he'll rebuild my core for me I just want some first hand input. I've already addressed the sun shell, servo, TCI seperator plate, thick steels in the 3/4 clutch pack so far, I'm just looking for other input on these units before I have the build done.
#6
Go to http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/custo...&cat=19&page=1 this is what I use for the Sreet/Strip 700R4, and it has done well for years. There are other kits that I carry for the 700R4, Road/Race, Pro-Street, thw S/S is the most popular. This kit addresses the vast majority of the problems with these units. If you have any questions on this let me know?
#7
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
I have to give Pro-Built the nod in a big way. I rebuilt my own trans with their kit, and a lot of help from Dana over the phone. My trans shifts like a luxury car at part throttle, but snaps your neck when you put the loud pedal on the mat. As for durability it had no problems behind my 360HP 350, and I'm not worried about it in front of the 450+HP 383 that I'll be dropping in the truck in the next week or two. I used a non-lockup Continental converter that I bought through Pro-Built as well, and I'm very happy with it thus far. My 700R4 is in my full size K5 Blazer 4X4 that sees everything from high speed highway travel to 5,000 RPM held in low gear with the t-case in low gear climbing a hill that looks more like a cliff. The truck has 4.88 gears, is locked at both ends, has 38.5" tires, and about the only stock parts in the truck are the body and the frame (both of which have been modified as well)!
I had 135,000 miles on the stock 700R4 that was in the truck. At about 105,000 miles I swapped the motor from the 305 to the 350 and installed a B&M converter and shift kit in the trans. The trans shifted very hard, but lasted until I blew the rear axel and then proceded to blow the low/reverse roller clutch and internal reaction planetary gearset apart tryong to drag the truck with the front rear in 4 wheel low.
The '87-up 700s are a lot better BTW. I think that's at leats part of why my trans lasted so long. They have a better 3/4 clutch pack and valvebody among other mods. Earlier 700s used a 7-vane pump, which is not nearly as good as the later model 10-vane pump.
I had 135,000 miles on the stock 700R4 that was in the truck. At about 105,000 miles I swapped the motor from the 305 to the 350 and installed a B&M converter and shift kit in the trans. The trans shifted very hard, but lasted until I blew the rear axel and then proceded to blow the low/reverse roller clutch and internal reaction planetary gearset apart tryong to drag the truck with the front rear in 4 wheel low.
The '87-up 700s are a lot better BTW. I think that's at leats part of why my trans lasted so long. They have a better 3/4 clutch pack and valvebody among other mods. Earlier 700s used a 7-vane pump, which is not nearly as good as the later model 10-vane pump.
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#8
Originally posted by Floor guy
The reaction shell (or cookie cutter) is the most often briken hard part. The 3-4 clutch pack is usually the first problem that happens when they are worn out. 2-3 shift flare up is another big complaint.
The reaction shell (or cookie cutter) is the most often briken hard part. The 3-4 clutch pack is usually the first problem that happens when they are worn out. 2-3 shift flare up is another big complaint.
#9
Floorguy built mine, and he used the stock planetaries, and shafts. He increased the number of clutches, installed a beast reaction carrier, put in a 13 vane pump, and 500 boost valve, with a shift kit. I also bought a new reverse input drum, as mine was in sad shape. Also he triple checks all the specs. IMO, thats the important part. My trans held up all summer long, with 1.57 60s on ET streets, with 570 ft lbs. Now Im planning on a 9 inch, higher stall converter. My trans was a core, that should have been thrown in the scrap pile.
Sorry for the double post. Things seem a bit wacky tonight.
Sorry for the double post. Things seem a bit wacky tonight.
Last edited by brutalform; 12-15-2005 at 05:48 PM.
#12
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 169
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Car: 86 iroc
Engine: yea it has one
Transmission: yea it has one of them also (im 2 for 2) :)
#13
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,391
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From: Newark, DE
Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Interesting to see that he used five pinion planetaries. I asked Dana about these and he told me that he has used the four pinions in everything that they came in stock with no trouble. He also noted that the five pinions take more power to spin than the four pinions. Needless to say the four pinions went back in my trans. I think if you've got them stock then great, but I wouldn't go spend money to buy a set new if you've got four pinion planteraries in good condition.
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