axle width
#1
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axle width
ok i measured overall width of an 87 camaro 7.5" axle i have laying around and its right about 62" drum face to drum face(WMS to WMS)
does anyone know of any GM axles larger than 7.5" that are around this wide- overall- WMS to WMS ?
car, trucks, 10 bolts, 12 bolts, etc ?
urls, links, pages, info ?
anyone who has found/or knows of such an axle(s) ?
thanks
does anyone know of any GM axles larger than 7.5" that are around this wide- overall- WMS to WMS ?
car, trucks, 10 bolts, 12 bolts, etc ?
urls, links, pages, info ?
anyone who has found/or knows of such an axle(s) ?
thanks
Last edited by Randy82WS7; 12-06-2005 at 01:49 PM.
#2
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
I'd go search around the G -body boards like turbo buick. com and the like.
Only rear that would come close to ours, but I dont know the measurements.
The G body 8.5 were only in the 442's and the turbo regals, so they are available, but u will pay for them.
later
Jeremy
Only rear that would come close to ours, but I dont know the measurements.
The G body 8.5 were only in the 442's and the turbo regals, so they are available, but u will pay for them.
later
Jeremy
#3
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what about the nova and camaro axles of the 70s ?
theres gotta be others
monza maybe
etc ?
the way its looking i may just snag an 8.5" 3.42 from a caprice 9C1 and narrow it and get moser axle shafts
hmm
thanks
theres gotta be others
monza maybe
etc ?
the way its looking i may just snag an 8.5" 3.42 from a caprice 9C1 and narrow it and get moser axle shafts
hmm
thanks
Last edited by Randy82WS7; 12-06-2005 at 02:05 PM.
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
I believe the second gen diffs are wider. First gen is perfect but good luck finding a first gen 12 bolt or even the weaker 10 bolt. All the truck diffs are too wide but I'd stay away from all of them anyway. I believe most of the A,G,B body are too wide but there may be some that are close enough. Depends on the exact model.
Chances of finding a 12 bolt the proper width is slim. Your best chance is finding a 8.5" 10 bolt possibly from a 60's or 70's A body.
You could also look for a Ford 9" that width or a Dodge 8-3/4". Dana 60's are overkill plus very hard to find that isn't a full floating axle in a truck (3/4 ton etc).
Chances of finding a 12 bolt the proper width is slim. Your best chance is finding a 8.5" 10 bolt possibly from a 60's or 70's A body.
You could also look for a Ford 9" that width or a Dodge 8-3/4". Dana 60's are overkill plus very hard to find that isn't a full floating axle in a truck (3/4 ton etc).
#5
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you know what
lol
i was screwing around with the tape measure outside just now and
i got under the back of the 84 impala and i measured from backing plate to backing plate and i got 55 and 1/4"
so i measured the same on the 87 camaro 10 bolt in the back entry way laying on the floor and guess what measurement i got on that one ?
haha
55 1/4"
the brakes are all 2" wide on these
so WMS to WMS should be identical as well
the truck 10 bolts are the same 8.5" under the heavier cars and a few older mid size cars
a common '78-90's caprice/impala 8.5" 3.42 is sounding real good so far
i dont think i will find anything better than this in stock form
thanks
lol
i was screwing around with the tape measure outside just now and
i got under the back of the 84 impala and i measured from backing plate to backing plate and i got 55 and 1/4"
so i measured the same on the 87 camaro 10 bolt in the back entry way laying on the floor and guess what measurement i got on that one ?
haha
55 1/4"
the brakes are all 2" wide on these
so WMS to WMS should be identical as well
the truck 10 bolts are the same 8.5" under the heavier cars and a few older mid size cars
a common '78-90's caprice/impala 8.5" 3.42 is sounding real good so far
i dont think i will find anything better than this in stock form
thanks
Last edited by Randy82WS7; 12-12-2005 at 12:19 PM.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
going to weld on the TA mount, and other suspension goodies, or convert to a totally different rear suspension style? ie 4 link?
#7
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dont know yet
will have to wait til its time to relocate LCA and spring brackets and such, and time to make the TQ arm and panhard bar mount steel
unless i do setup upper LCA's instead,
first gotta find new brackets for the axle tubes, or figure out how to remove them without damaging them
thanks
will have to wait til its time to relocate LCA and spring brackets and such, and time to make the TQ arm and panhard bar mount steel
unless i do setup upper LCA's instead,
first gotta find new brackets for the axle tubes, or figure out how to remove them without damaging them
thanks
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#8
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Fabricating a torque arm mount isn't as easy as it sounds. The bracket mount available from the aftermarket is available for a 9" only because the mounts for the bracket can easily be welded onto the 9" steel housing.
GM diffs have a cast center section. Although mounts can be welded onto it, it's not something the average welder can do and there's not a lot of guarentee a mount can be welded on with any strength or risk of distortion to the cast case. Distort the case from too much heat (cast needs to be heated up cherry red before welding to it) and all the internal bearings could go out of line meaning the whole diff housing needs to be checked for straightness.
That's why a 4 link system is a better choice when trying to use a junkyard GM diff but that also opens up more problems because the best way to install a 4 link is to back half the car.
Buying an aftermarket bolt in 12 bolt already has the torque arm mount cast into the casting so it does become a bolt in deal.
I use ladder bars to eliminate the torque arm with my 9" but my car is strip only. I'll never recommend ladder bars for a street car. They don't offer enough flexability for street use.
Most people think they need a 12 bolt or a 9" with all the best and most expensive parts. Unless you're already breaking a bunch of 7.5" 10 bolts, run what you have until you start breaking diffs then decide how much to invest in something stronger. I ran a 10 bolt into the low to mid 11's with nothing more than a buildup from the "ultimate 10 bolt" article. I only switched to a 9" when I installed a transbrake in the car.
GM diffs have a cast center section. Although mounts can be welded onto it, it's not something the average welder can do and there's not a lot of guarentee a mount can be welded on with any strength or risk of distortion to the cast case. Distort the case from too much heat (cast needs to be heated up cherry red before welding to it) and all the internal bearings could go out of line meaning the whole diff housing needs to be checked for straightness.
That's why a 4 link system is a better choice when trying to use a junkyard GM diff but that also opens up more problems because the best way to install a 4 link is to back half the car.
Buying an aftermarket bolt in 12 bolt already has the torque arm mount cast into the casting so it does become a bolt in deal.
I use ladder bars to eliminate the torque arm with my 9" but my car is strip only. I'll never recommend ladder bars for a street car. They don't offer enough flexability for street use.
Most people think they need a 12 bolt or a 9" with all the best and most expensive parts. Unless you're already breaking a bunch of 7.5" 10 bolts, run what you have until you start breaking diffs then decide how much to invest in something stronger. I ran a 10 bolt into the low to mid 11's with nothing more than a buildup from the "ultimate 10 bolt" article. I only switched to a 9" when I installed a transbrake in the car.
#9
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Thread Starter
good points, very true
the way its going im probably not gonna mess with trying to turn one of these cars into a fun toy
its looking like im gonna do it to the 84 impala instead
mostly due to not having to modify the rear any
and its only a couple 100 lbs heavier than the third gen f bodies anwyays and i can drop that much weight or more off the car easily, headers cost same amount, has full frame, coil 4 arm rear,
so hmmm
thanks
the way its going im probably not gonna mess with trying to turn one of these cars into a fun toy
its looking like im gonna do it to the 84 impala instead
mostly due to not having to modify the rear any
and its only a couple 100 lbs heavier than the third gen f bodies anwyays and i can drop that much weight or more off the car easily, headers cost same amount, has full frame, coil 4 arm rear,
so hmmm
thanks
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