is this everything I need to rebuild my transmission?
#1
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
is this everything I need to rebuild my transmission?
Check it out... it's all here. Even a shift kit (TransGo simple kit in that blue box- a bunch of springs and stuff)
I have a 5MP picture if you need closeups...
I have a 5MP picture if you need closeups...
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Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
Re: is this everything I need to rebuild my transmission?
Originally posted by Token
Check it out... it's all here. Even a shift kit (TransGo simple kit in that blue box- a bunch of springs and stuff)
I have a 5MP picture if you need closeups...
Check it out... it's all here. Even a shift kit (TransGo simple kit in that blue box- a bunch of springs and stuff)
I have a 5MP picture if you need closeups...
#4
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
how much are new steel pieces and what do they look like?
also, these vanes, what are they and how much do they run as well?
also, these vanes, what are they and how much do they run as well?
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Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
The vanes are the wear pieces in the pump. They cost less than a buck a piece. You will need 7, 10 or 13 of them depending onwhat year trans you have. The steels go between each clutch plate. They run about $30 for a set. The bushing kit usually sells for about $15. The thrust washer kit with selective often run in the $15 area.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
ouch another $75 I don't have
would it be "okay" to skip them?
I lost my 3rd and 4th gears, racing on the highway. in D it shifts from 1-2, then at the "3 shift" it seems to just hit neutral.
would it be "okay" to skip them?
I lost my 3rd and 4th gears, racing on the highway. in D it shifts from 1-2, then at the "3 shift" it seems to just hit neutral.
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Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 406 CI
Transmission: Pete K 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:55
Most units need a front pump, case and rear tailhousing bushing at a minimum. You may be able to buy them individually. The other items can be reused if they check good. You will not know till it is apart.
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Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
if you lost 3rd and 4th, you will definitly need new steels as the ones in the 3/4 clutch pack are toast. if you are going to be racing, then the stuff you have will not do the trick. i learned from experience. if you are gonna be racing, even on the street, you need a few upgrades. not just a standard cheap rebuild.
#11
Originally posted by 87zjeff
raybestos has the z-pack which is an excellent upgrade. i am currently running that set-up.
raybestos has the z-pack which is an excellent upgrade. i am currently running that set-up.
Really love the way my trans shifts. So gentle at part throttle. But when you get on the pedal it really firms up.
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Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
yeah, that transgo full shift kit is about awesome if you ask me. i put the heaviest spring in it for the 1-2 shift. talk about firm!wow! also, you need to get at least a hardened sunshell. i have the beast sunshell as well as a few other mods from a 4l65e!
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Thirdgen89GTA
I'm selling my transmission. ^_^ For $250 some guy is sure getting a good deal.
I'm selling my transmission. ^_^ For $250 some guy is sure getting a good deal.
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I would also get a Transgo Pump Ring kit. Check out www.bulkpart.com. Lots of parts for your tranny there.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
you guys keep recommending me all this stuff, and I have absolutely no idea what it is, what it does, what it looks like, why i need it, or how much it costs.
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Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
pump ring kit= gm factory rings are breakable. the pump ring kit is a set of hardened unbreakable rings to make sure the pump vanes stay in place. it is a durability thing.
hardened sunshell= the factory sunshell has a habit of stripping the splines under heavy load and hard acceleration. a hardened one won't do this. the beast sunshell is thicker than the other sunshells and hardened. it is mainly used in high torque and high horse applications.
transgo shift kit= any tranny benifits from a shift kit because it raises line pressures so the clutch packs engage better. it can also be used to calibrate how the tranny shifts.
.500 boost valve= the biggest boost valve available for the 700r4. it raises the pressure in the forward gears. the reverse boost valve controls pressure in lo1/2 and reverse.
the z-pack from raybestos = a 3/4 clutch replacement that works good in stock and modified 700r4's to withstand coning and heat.
the alto kit mentioned works similar to the z-pack. i have used it but like the z-pack much better.
there are also little tricks to do and other mods that can be made along the way. for example, i have a 5 gear rear planet, reaction hub and bearing fro a 4l65e installed in my 700r4. you can plug the 3/4 accumulator(the transgo shift kit does this) for a firmer 3-4 shift and turn te 1-2 accumulator over for a better 1-2 shift.
who is gonne build your tranny? a local shop such as aamco might not touch the mods that have been discussed. they only like to do factory rebuilds.
hardened sunshell= the factory sunshell has a habit of stripping the splines under heavy load and hard acceleration. a hardened one won't do this. the beast sunshell is thicker than the other sunshells and hardened. it is mainly used in high torque and high horse applications.
transgo shift kit= any tranny benifits from a shift kit because it raises line pressures so the clutch packs engage better. it can also be used to calibrate how the tranny shifts.
.500 boost valve= the biggest boost valve available for the 700r4. it raises the pressure in the forward gears. the reverse boost valve controls pressure in lo1/2 and reverse.
the z-pack from raybestos = a 3/4 clutch replacement that works good in stock and modified 700r4's to withstand coning and heat.
the alto kit mentioned works similar to the z-pack. i have used it but like the z-pack much better.
there are also little tricks to do and other mods that can be made along the way. for example, i have a 5 gear rear planet, reaction hub and bearing fro a 4l65e installed in my 700r4. you can plug the 3/4 accumulator(the transgo shift kit does this) for a firmer 3-4 shift and turn te 1-2 accumulator over for a better 1-2 shift.
who is gonne build your tranny? a local shop such as aamco might not touch the mods that have been discussed. they only like to do factory rebuilds.
Last edited by 87zjeff; 10-16-2005 at 12:29 PM.
#18
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
my buddy Scott is going to do it.
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Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
if he knows how to build transmissions, he can show you in detail some of te things we are talking about. should be able to anyway. but most of the mods we have talked about require money to buy the parts. some of them are just rticks of the trade so to speak.
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Also dont forget to replace the accumulator pistons. They wear out and tilt in their bores, causing loss of pressure. This caused my trans to loose pressure in 2nd/4th. The pistons where tilted at about 15-20 degrees to to extreme wear. IIRC, there is also a resleeve kit (for the 4L60-E's) avaiable if there is excessive damage to the piston bores.
Also check the flexplate. One of the pads on mine had about .060"+ of runout, which is probably the explanation for the torque converter failure. I could probably get away with a new torque converter and possibly repairs to the front pump, but this gave me a perfect excuse to buy a TKO.
Also check the flexplate. One of the pads on mine had about .060"+ of runout, which is probably the explanation for the torque converter failure. I could probably get away with a new torque converter and possibly repairs to the front pump, but this gave me a perfect excuse to buy a TKO.
#21
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
THIS IS WHY I AVOID TRANSMISSIONS!
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
No offense, but if you don't know what it is, what it looks like or where it goes, then you should have a reputable shop do it for you. It'll be less $$$, work, time and frustration in the end. I build motors all day long but I won't dive into an auto tranny, they're VOOODOOOOO!
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Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
lol.....most are not that bad but you do have to know what you are doing. there are a lot of them that i won't touch. but i'll do a 700r4 with no problem.
#24
700r4 = easy. ATSG + DIY attitude and a willingness to double check your work, and ask questions where needed means you can do a basic slightly upgraded rebuild by yourself.
Easy is being defined as the willingness to do the research when needed. Its not so complex that you can't figure it out if you pay careful attention to how it comes apart.
I want to go manual in the end, but for now if I need to I'll buy a 4L60E core and rebuild that in hopes that I'll never need it.
Easy is being defined as the willingness to do the research when needed. Its not so complex that you can't figure it out if you pay careful attention to how it comes apart.
I want to go manual in the end, but for now if I need to I'll buy a 4L60E core and rebuild that in hopes that I'll never need it.
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Car: 88 Camaro SC
Engine: SFI'd 350
Transmission: TKO 500
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt w/ 3.23's
Rebuilding the 700 wasnt that bad, and it worked great, but after getting burned by a bad flexplate and other problems Im definatly sticking with a manual.
#26
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Dialed_In
No offense, but if you don't know what it is, what it looks like or where it goes, then you should have a reputable shop do it for you. It'll be less $$$, work, time and frustration in the end. I build motors all day long but I won't dive into an auto tranny, they're VOOODOOOOO!
No offense, but if you don't know what it is, what it looks like or where it goes, then you should have a reputable shop do it for you. It'll be less $$$, work, time and frustration in the end. I build motors all day long but I won't dive into an auto tranny, they're VOOODOOOOO!
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