88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

well with desktop dyno and drag my stock converter should be fine but, it looks to me like I need something a little looser

in gear I have to two foot the thing. or set the idle very high

any other ideas?

.544/.554 lift 230/236 dur. @ .050 112 lsa

valve timming

Int.- open 7 btdc close 43 abdc
EX- open 54 bbdc close 2 atdc

this is on a 350 HSR AFR Longtube combo (700r4)

Pro Built Automatics

You will need to go to a 9.5" lockup if you want this to last, your torque converter is to heavy & inefficent, and is hard on the drivetrain. The 9.5" will take off about 17 pounds of rotating mass off of the back of the crankshaft. I need to know more about your setup to determine what stall is needed for your application.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Assuming you want this combo maximized, by cam spec alone your going to want a stall that flashes in the 32-3500 range since that's where the motor will start coming into the power.

Since this is a street car, the convertor will still be on the tight side down low, so dont think that is going to solve all your problems, if you wanted a looser convertor, have them use a different stator.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

is desk top dyno and drag that far off? it shows a lower stall allowing for a faster mph and 1/4

I figured it was due to tire spin?

there is not much else to the combo the afr heads are the 195cc street heads (2.02 valves larger springs specific for this cam), 52 mm bbk throttle body on the HSR. on top of a .040 350 comp. is 9.5 with these heads. I guess I forgot to post there is 4.0 timming advance in the cam.

slp cat back using a slp ls1 long tube y-pipe cut and welded to fit the hooker longtubes

3.27 rear ratio, aluminum driveshaft


max hp is @ 6000-6500 rpm

it has good torque and hp @ 2000 rpm


this was a budget build from things I had laying around and had gotten for free. but, I had to buy a few items (headers, starter ect.) I just want to see what it has in it. and this seems to be my hold up right now




now if I use a 3500 stall that would come in @ just about 250 hp I would think I would have major traction issues?

now if I went with a 2500 stall 9" converter and a differant stator this could work?

yes, this will see mostly street life but not everyday or anything.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Ddyno/Drag can be very opptimist with numbers so use it as a fun tool, not a true to life tool. By DDyno I was supposed to right at 600hp, but after strapping on the chasis dyno it showed only 404hp at the tires which with 30% drivetrain loss due to the TH400 roughly put me at 521hp at the flyweel, motor just made an insane amount of torque (593ft lbs@2900), so by right I should of had a 3K stall to really maximize, but what I had worked fine and I was already fighting traction (60's moving .01-.02 in a days time) on non perfect tracks.

You need to look at torque when shopping for a convertor, hp really has nothing to do with how a convertor acts since a convertor is a torque multiplier you need to look at when you want it to really work (the flash point-when you nail it from a dead stop the convertor will flash to whatever it's peak stall is which is dependant on the entire combination of the car-just cuz you order a 3000 stall does'nt mean it's going to hit 3000, it might be a few hundred rpm more/less) Having the right convertor allows the engine to flash straight into it's powerband to get the motor where it needs to be to make usable power, then it'll come down to how much slippage is in the convertor that will dictate if your going to be using that power, or having the convertor slip/build up heat and not go anywhere....

think of it like driving a manual tranny, you can mat the throttle-but if you only let the clutch half out the engine is still screaming, but your really not getting anywhere fast. Same principal with convertors, it's a fine line between not enough and too much slippage and they play a HUGE role in overall cars performance-it's the next important piece bsides the right heads and cam.....it's that important and why they cost what they do for a good one.

Back to my 10" 4600 "rated" stall, it woudl actually flash to 5000-5100 rpm on the hit, I had to idle the engine in park at 1100rpm so when I put it in gear it'd pull down to 800rpm. In our truck it's got the same 4600 stall but an 8", you can idle it at 850rpm, put it in gear and no difference-stays at 850rpm, not to mention it can be "powered brakes" to 4800 without batting an eye on wet grass-that's just how loose it is. BUT the biggest thing with this convertor in the truck is it's a soft hit, I believe a CCX stator? we ere having troubles with 60' consistantcy so we got the soft hit convertor which dropped our 60's down quite a bit but made up for it on the big end with 3mph more than previous best.

So there's ways of getting you cake and eating it too, just depends on how you wanna do it. And if you break the tires loose-get better tires or move into upgrading suspension pieces, granted I run DOT slicks, but with a short burnout I can pull the front end on the street everytime...all about combination for every part of the car.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

that's why when I did the simulation I lowered a few things to bring the hp down to a more "real" hp but, as far as converters what do you recomend?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I'm biased to ATI or BTE convertors simply because those are the two most commonly run convertors at the tracks that end up in productive or winning cars more often than not. Hughes also ranks up there in winner's cars and I've had pretty good luck with this TCI unit the past couople years with no problems and consistant performance, so IMO those brands are a good option from a manufacturer standpoint.

I "read" from other members here that Yank is a good convertor also. Only thing I have a problem with is many of these kids this is their first real convertor so they have nothig to compare too, all they know is it's easier to spin the tires LOL!! As long as thos other convertors are holding up longevity wise, great!!! but since I'm at the track more than home during the summer, I'm kinda biased to stuff that gets it's azz kicked continually and does'nt break a sweat, if it can handle the stripe repeatadly, the street is no problem

Just going by your cam specs it should put your power range in the low side of 3000-3200rpm, and that "should be" the beginning of the sweet spot for power to get you motivated quickly, especially with the hwy gears your running your gonna need the motor making power to overcome the lag from less than ideal gearing. The convertor will build up a little more heat than normal due to that fact, so go with the biggest tranney cooler you can get-usually $60 range will get you a big one. I've always run 10" convertors in all 3 of my different trannies and all have given me excellent street manners and kicked azz at the track. Got 2 freinds running 9.5" stuff and I have'nt been real impressed thus far, but they have'nt sent them back in for tweaking yet either to optimize effiency, they both seem to build heat rather quickly when driving around town. This current set-up if I can hit 120* cruising around town/interstate, I'm doing good. Off the transbrake after a run it's 180* no more-even round robin it cools great.

All this is just my opinon, and just like cam shafts, call the company our going to purchase from and let them ask you the 20 questions to get you the right convertor the first time-it's their everyday job....I just build and remodel during the day and race on the weekends