ok, so the story is...i've already had the transmission pulled out and i rebuilt it a few days ago. the problem was the same before, except it wouldnt even stay in reverse. (so yall dont think im dumb i only slammed it through the grind back into reverse once to make sure it would at least stay put) the problem with the transmission was the reverse idler gear. ordered a new one, rebuilt the trans, put it back in, everything works fine (for the most part). now the problems im getting out of it, are of course the grind as i try to put it in reverse, and it doesnt want to go into a lower gear when i try to downshift (had this problem before i rebuilt it). im tryin to get some feedback and see if anyone knows what the problem is, because i have to be able to drive this car by the end of this week.

-if you need to ask me any other questions about this car, send 'em my way, i've worked on/replaced most of the stuff on it...it's been a summer-long project.

the book says to cure the reverse problem, to bleed the clutch system. didnt see any bubbles or anyhting come out when i did, and it still has the problem. the only other things it suggests may be the problem, mean that i'll have to pull thew transmission again.

-my dad and i do know that there is a problem with the clutch not traveling as far as it should. i think i'm getting about .3-.4 travel instead of the 'minimum .57'

thanks,
mike

 

on my old t5 i use to bring the car into first than second and then to reverse. it works in my case.

 

All T-5's have done the same thing but they have all bin used . What I do is roll foward in 1st a little never realy letting the clutch out all the way , push it back in come to a stop then go into reverse . Or make sure I let the clutch out in nutrel both ways work for me . I sill gind it if I am not thinking though .

 

A little more info. If you put it in first to start it up the cars "bumps" forward when the engine first starts and then sits still. If you leave it in reverse and then start it, it "bumps" rearward and then sits still. Seems like the clutch isn't releasing. I've got 2 other manual transmission vehicles. An 81 Z28 and a 90 F150 4WD. Niether of them moves when the clutch is all the way on the floor and you start the engine. The shop manual calls for a minimum of 0.57 inches of actuator shaft travel when the clutch pedal is depressed and we're getting right at 0.3 inches of travel. when you unbolt the actuator from the bell housing the shaft moves out almost an inch more and you have to really work to get the shaft pushed back in, hold it to the bell housing and get a bolt started when you put it back on. The shaft will move farther than 0.3 inches but the pushing on the clutch pedal won't move it. Looks like more parts from GM.

 

every t5 I've driven from s10 to camaro have ground going into reverse

I double pump the peddle, put into 5th, then slam into reverse.

 

I have a t05 in mine and I never have that problem. although when I put it into reverse i shift it from 1st to 5th and then into reverse with the clutch all the way in.. never grinds for me then.. if i try to go from nuetral right into reverse it is a 50/50 chance it will grind..

 

It's the pilot brg in the crank shaft. Either misaligned, dry, too tight or too deep in the end of the crank. " It holds on to the input shaft of the trans like there is no clutch "

 

isnt there no synchro on reverse in the t-5???

i just go 5th to reverse,... never grinds...

 

Nope, no T5 reverse synchro.

While it could be the pilot bearing as mentioned above, my guess is an old worn out clutch or pressure plate, or bad hydraulics.

There is no way the car should be bumping forward or backwards when you first start it up if the clutch is pushed to the floor.

 

I have seen many just like this. The clutch disengages the inputshaft from the engine. If it is freezes to the Pilot then it would act like no clutch at all. Partial lock up. Like partial clutch disengauge and so on. Most common issue. Pilot driven too far into crankshaft. But then again. I'm just an ASE certified G.M. mastertech with about 30 years experiance. Just try'n to help..

 

odd question but if it was like that shouldn't it do that in every gear then?.. i mean.. just a question...

 

well...i think the reason it doesnt act like that in every other gear is because of the way the teeth are angled on the gears...ease of shifting. if they are spinning, and you are up-shifting, they slide together very easily, but if they are still spinning a little then it makes it more difficult to downshift (which is one of the problems im having).

 

At a stop yes.. in motion it should work fairly good depending on the severity of the bushing/brg. Iv'e seen cars that still moved alot with the clutch depresed. One way to attemt a fix is to slam on the park brake hard and then start it in reverse and then first with the clutch depressed. Run up the R's to try and clearance the bushing. let it pull the car. It's not the clutch that is slipping. it's the pilot brg it should work but it could spin it. If you have intalled a needle brg pilot you better be for pulling it down. Stock it's gonna be a brass bushing and I'm sure it is because is this not untypical of a brass pilot.

 

so you say it shouldnt make a difference for downshifting? i took it down the road the other day to test out all the gears and when i was slowing down to turn around in a circle drive way, i went to shift from 3rd to 2nd, and it didnt want to find the gear (first either). i dont think it matters any, but a couple times it was hard to get it in gear when the car wasnt running

 

mine does it too, just a non synchrod gear

 

Your reading more into what I'm saying than what's there.. Last post here. The problems the pilot brg. It's driven to deep in the crankshaft. A brass bushing should actually stick out a touch from the edge of the crankshaft. it should not be flush. look around in here. here is a link


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=pilot+bearing