Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Alright I've been fighting transmission problems for the last month and haven't had much luck. I'm just trying to sort though it again. I installed a spec stage 2 clutch kit after my throwout bearing exploded.

It is difficult to shift gears, the worst being first.

I have the throwout bearing in the correct place so that the clips are inside the groove. However, I think that the to bearing is too short.

I just exchanged my lt1 hydraulics yesterday, that made it better but did not fix the problem. I also put a new clutch fork in, thinking that was the problem.

Is the throwout bearing too short or are these pressure plates just that damn stiff?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I also put in a resurfaced lb9 flywheel in, without shimming it.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Alright I came up with three options:

1. Shim the flywheel

2. Extend the slave rod

3. Install longer throwout bearing

Which one?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

4. I could mount the slave on the other side of flange on the bellhousing. I'm not sure if that'll work yet, but it would give me a lot more action.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I put a 1/4 spacer on the end of the slave today, I haven't tried it yet. I doubt it'll work, nothing works right with this anymore.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Well like usual it didn't work. Maybe if I put a half inch spacer in or maybe those bastards gave me a too short throwout bearing.

Or maybe I'm just the dumbest fool ever, I'm done for awhile.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Is adding things to the end of the slave rod a bad idea? If so why?

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

Make sure you got the right throw out bearing. Check the fluid level and bleed the slave cylinder. How did the pilot bearing/bushing look when you pulled it apart?

Put the rear on jack stands and start the car. Put it in gear, if the rear tires are rolling, then the pilot bearing is probably shot.

Also check tranny fluid.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I am waiting to do the throwout bearing last, because it means pulling the transmission again. I thought all throwout bearings for t-5 were the same. However are there any longer ones?

The slave has been repeatedly bleed.

Tranny fluid was full and I haven't seen any leaks, I can check again.

Wouldn't that just show that the clutch wasn't disengauging completely?

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

CLutch or pilot bearing. Both need to be working properly or the rear tires will roll while in gear. I'm assuming the clutch is good.

Did you re-pack the TOB when you put it back together?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

The clutch is a brand new spec stage two.


By repack you mean greased, correct? If so then yes.

RWB____s

Are you using a adjustable pivot ball for the clutch fork? If so make sure the clutchfork is adjusted properly.Here is a link to a help page from McLeod http://www.mcleodind.com/hints.asp

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I'm not using an adjustable ball stud, because you have to use a mcleod bellhousing with it.

RWB____s

No You do NOT have to use their bell housing. Lakewood makes them also for differemt housings.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Well I didn't know that. Part number 15501. I guess I should order one of those.

Are there any longer throwout bearings while I'm at it?

RWB____s

one thing at a time . try the pivot ball first. make sure the adjustment is as mentioned in the http://www.mcleodind.com/hints.asp

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

The hints were kind of helpful. The one that caught my attention was "Pressure in pressure plate too much for clutch linkage." I guess that could be me.

I just don't want to mess with the transmission again so I was thinking both the throwout bearing and pivot ball stud. The clutch release is very low, however the hydraulics are new and have been bleed.

RWB____s

I hope the flywheel you installed is compatable with your clutch, If it isn't, you are going to have all sorts of problems. I assume its Aluminum being its lite. Does the pressure plate hit the flywheel bolts? Did you call Spec clutches to confirm compatability? If it's not, it "can" be very dangerous to drive that car like that. A clutch explosion is something you don't want"These things you should check first".

The clutch fork adjustment is critical to pedal feel. If it is misadjusted, it will not have the proper leverage to actuate the clutch properly and it will have a very hard pedal.
So that with the Slave cylinder not attached to the bell housing ,you should be able to freely move the Slave end of the clutch fork toward the trans end of the bell housing until the Tbearing is resting against the pressure plate. When it makes contact, the Slave end of the clutch fork should still be angled toward the Slave cylinder. If it's not, adjust the pivot ball till the fork is angled toward the slave cylinder with the Tbearing still resting against the pressure plate . Also, make sure the adjustable pivot ball has the correct threads that screw into the bell housing.
I just went through this myself with a twin disc race clutch. It was very stiff and hard to actuate the clutch because of misadjustment. Now I can actuate the clutch with my fingers.
It doesn't matter if its a single or triple disc clutch the adjustment procedure is the same. Hope this helps

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Well the flywheel I am using is the one that came with all the z28 87-92. I've read on these boards numerous times that they are a direct swap. I difference in weight coming from the area area the starter ring. I don't think the pressure plate hits the flywheel bolts. They are the factory bolts. I would guess all the parts would match guess I should call someone.

I wish I could acuate my clutch with my fingers. I'll have to check the fork positioning next chance I get.

I can't really do much with the factory ball stud though, its all the way in already.

RWB____s

What Im curious about also is that you state that the flywheel is 7lbs. That cannot be accurate. GM did make 15lbs nodular iron flywheels that are very good. I was under the impression that you were using a aftermarket flywheel by the 7 lbs weight you stated.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I don't know where I said it weighs 7lbs, but its definately a GM one that weighs around 18lb.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

Doubt it. I'm running a spec stage 5 and it works fine. I'm guessing the 5 has a little more pressure than the stage 2. My hydraulics are new, but stock replacements.

My suggestion, sorry, but pull the trans and don't put it back in until you know you fixed it.

RWB____s

Sorry, This is where I got that info. For some reason I thought you said 7lbs and not lb9=9lb

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Alright I was going to order the adjustable ball stud and then I thought I might as well get some other stuff from Summit.

The flywheel bolts should I get the 7.88 or 16.69 ones? They have the same specs except one says for one piece and the other is for two piece.

Which throwout bearing should I get? I have the one spec sent me but I think I should get another. They have self aligning ones and adjustable ones. Which would be a good choice for me?

RWB____s

Well If you have a 1 piece crank seal engine, get the bolts for that. If not get the other. Simple?

I would call Spec and tell them what clutch setup you are trying to use part by part and go with their recomendation.

I have nothing against Spec Clutches. I have never used one but many many people have with good results. So I would go with what they say.

I trust your flywheel is usable? It hasn't been cut down to much?
There is a limit on how much material can be removed and still be safe to use. I can't give you any Dimensions not knowing the particular flywheel you are using and its exact current condition.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

I am going to call spec tomorrow and talk it over with them.

Do you think it would be possible to install the adjustable ball stud without taking out the entire transmission?

I let the local O'Reily's resurface the flywheel hopefully they speced it first.

RWB____s

You are goin to have to pull the trans. sorry for the bad news. I would at least check the flywheel for Hot spots, cracks, and flatness while your at it. Get a 1 inch dial indicator and a magnetic base from someone. set it up and run it across the entire face of the flywheel that the clutch disk makes contact with and check it for flatness. It should be within a +or-.005 of a inch flatness.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I'm definately going to pull the transmission soon. I got beat by a s10 cause I couldn't shift into second. I think I'll get an adjustable throwout bearing while I'm at it.

RWB____s

Don't get a adjustable throw out bearing. Just use the adjustable pivot ball. That way you can make adjustments without pulling the trans.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Okay, should I even get another throwout bearing then?

RWB____s

Only if you need one. A self aligning one if you do.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Thing is I won't know until I pull the transmission, and I always end up doing that like 9 pm. Then I'm stuck finishing the project until the wee hours of the morning.

Hopefully an adjustable ball stud will cure everything, however I was thinking of ordering a new roller pilot bearing, new flywheel and pressure plate bolts, throwout bearing, and the ball stud. I don't want to be underthere again.

RWB____s

Sounds like your on the right track I feel your pain about being under the car One to many times Keep me posted on how it turns out. Did you contact SPEC about the clutch setup?
If so what did they have to say?

Here are some pics of what I am currently dealing with on my clutch setup.
I ended up rebuilding the complete hydraulics system with a Custom CNC mfg. Adjustable Master & Slave cylinder including braided lines in order to get the clutch modulation and clutch/peddle release point correct. The clutch is a Mcleod Mag force light weight twin disc unit. It weighs just over 15 lbs including flywheel , clutch and all hardware. The Discs are HCF sintered iron. It engages and releases like a on/off switch and the throttle response due to the lite weight is exceptional
The down side is , it's not very streetable. The car is trailored.

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if a ford t-5 adjustable ball stud would fit a gm t-5 bellhousing?