bigd25x

hey guys, im new to the 3rd gen fourms but ive been with the nastyz28 2nd gen fourms along time so i hope to be a big poster here, my question is that i bought a 92 camaro rs, its a very nice car needs a little work but the trans mounts are shot cause its baning on the floorpans when i punch it off the line, ive never really messed with anything to do with transmisions so im hopeing someone here can tell me the steps i should do and the easyest way and the best place to buy the mounts (ones that will last). thanks !

Benm109

You can get a new transmission mount pretty much anywhere, any auto parts store will carry them. Stock replacement ones usually cost around $12. But, if you want a mount that will last practically forever, get a polyurethane transmission mount. They are alot stronger than stock replacement ones. Energy Suspension and Prothane both make polyurethane transmission mounts that work on our cars, and you can get them at places like Summit Racing, Jegs, and sometimes regular auto parts stores, just depends (I found one at Autozone, for example). They cost about $25.

Replacing the transmission mount is pretty easy. Jack the car up on the front and support it with jackstands. Remove the nut in the middle of the transmission crossmember that holds the tranny mount to the crossmember. Put a block of wood on your jack and place it on the transmission pan and slowly raise the transmission up off of the crossmember. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission. Then slide or wiggle the old mount out (there isn't a lot of room). If just jacking the transmission up isn't enough to get the old mount out, then just remove the crossmember (4 bolts) and then remove the old mount. Installation of the new tranny mount is the reverse. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.

While you've got the car in the air, you should also check the torque arm mount (the torque arm is the large triangular brace that runs from the rear end to the rear of the transmission). If that mount becomes loose or broken, that could cause the noise you are hearing, if it's not the transmission mount.

TKOPerformance

One thing about the poly mounts is that they can cause a vibration. Pay particular atention to the height of the mount. If it's more or less than the stock mount don't use it. It will change the driveshaft angle and cause a vibration. In truth, if it's a stock car I'd stay with a stock mount.

bigd25x

so where exactly is this bolt i have to remove and is this the easyest way?

bigd25x

bump

Benm109

Which bolts? There is only 2 bolts and 1 nut holding the transmission mount on. The nut is located right in the middle of the transmission crossmember. The 2 bolts holding the transmission mount to the transmission itself are located towards the rear of the transmission, right behind the transmission fluid pan.

If you don't already have one, I would highly suggest a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car from an auto parts store (around $20). They have step-by-steps and plenty of pictures for general repairs.

bigd25x

hmm, good idea, do they have em for 79 camaro too?

Benm109

They have them for pretty much any car you can think of.

http://www.haynes.com/na.html

TKOPerformance

Yes. Get a 2nd gen ('71-'81) and a 3rd gen ('82-'92) manual from Haynes or Chilton. I prefer Haynes, because they are clearer and have better pictures. Pep Boys should have them in stock.

bigd25x

hey Benm109, i like ur car alot, jw how hard was it to rebuild that tbi? i have no experience with them but ive rebuilt 10000's of carbs, same ball park? and where did u get that intake from and the valve covers i really like what you have done.

TKOPerformance

If you can rebuild a carb you can do a TBI unit. They are incredibly simple. The two injectors come out and you send them to a shop that can clean and flow them. The regulator has a diaphram that you could replace, and a few gaskets. It's really very easy. The biggest problem I've seen is a degradation of injector performance over time. Typically you can just get them cleaned and flow tested and they are as good as new. The gaskets in the unit can dry up over time and cause vacuum leaks, just like a carb. No jets, no floats, no needles and seats. Pretty easy.

Benm109

Thanks for the compliment.

TKOPerformance is dead on. TBI rebuilds are very easy, much easier than carb rebuilds. It's really as simple as just removing, disassembling, and then reassembling the TBI unit. The 2 rebuild kits I've used (GP-Sorensen part number 97-724) both had really good directions and diagrams. Usually the hardest part is just getting the rebuild kit. Most auto parts stores seem to list them as "TBI Tune Up Kits", instead of just a "rebuild kit".

The intake is an Edelbrock Performer TBI intake manifold (Edelbrock part number 3704). The valve covers are just regular Mr. Gasket chrome centerbolt valve covers I got from Summit Racing. I wouldn't recommend them, though, there are much better chrome valve covers out there than cheapy Mr. Gasket's like mine.

bigd25x

ohh, ok thanks guys alot, i thought it would be harder cause you know "fuel injected" people think pain in the ***, how much did that intake run you? im just trying to get a little more performance outa this 305, and i just wana make it look a little bit better.

TKOPerformance

To get a little more power fromt he 305 I would use the following parts:

Headers - 1-5/8" primaries, shorties or long tubes (SLP or other)
Air Cleaner - 14"x3" K&N
Ignition - MSD cap, rotor, module, coil, 8.5mm wires, 6A CD box
Intake - TBI spacer (Turbo City or other), Edelbrock Performer TBI

To take it to the next level:

1.6:1 roller rockers
head porting/polishing
hydraulic roller cam
Note: PROM reprogramming will be require dwiht these mods

The headers will make the biggest difference. Everything else will ad small amounts of power and efficiency. The best part is that a motor set up like this will make more power and get better milage.

Benm109

I'm pretty sure I paid $220 for that intake.

TKOPerformance is right, once again. Do full exhaust first. The whole stock exhaust system (exhaust manifold, catalytic converter, and cat-back) needs to go. Find some good shorty headers with a matching y-pipe, get a high-flow cat, and a single 3" cat-back. The stock exhaust system is one of the biggest restrictions on these cars. Try searching through the exhaust board as well as the TBI board for more info. There have been plenty of TBI motor build-ups in the past.

TKOPerformance

Yup, that was the route I took with the stock 305 in my Blazer. The headers and exhaust made the biggest difference. It made me happy until I finally decided to swap to a 350. The best part is that all of those parts can be transfered right over to the 350.

I would say SLP headers and Y-pipe, Random Tech cat, and SLP cat back. The SLP flows the best, and is stainless steel, so no nasty rust to worry about. The Random Tech cats are the best, are stainless too, and are a direct fit.

bigd25x

what if i run no cat? right now it looks like i have the stock manifolds going into a y pipe going into a cat (probley stock) with a pipe going all the way back to a flowmaster muffler in front of my gas tank with dual pipes comeing out of it. and btw what does "cat back" mean?

Benm109

A "cat-back" is just an exhaust system that runs from the end of the catalytic converter, to the end of the car. It runs from the back of the cat, get it? A cat-back for a 3rd gen usually comes with an intermediate pipe, muffler, and exhaust tips.

You can run without a cat if you want to. Might not want to do it if you live in a state with emissions testing, though, or your car might fail. Aftermarket high-flow cats are now fairly inexpensive and don't rob any HP like some stock ones can. It's really all up to you and your preference.