What do bad tranny guts look like??
06-26-2005, 07:29 PM
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Car: '63 Nova Wagon these days
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: 5-speed
What do bad tranny guts look like??
I've got the top cover off my T5 and it looks pretty good inside. There is a little damage to the teeth of a few of the brass synchros but not too bad and all the gears look great.
What do bad (bad enough to cause problems) synchros look like? What specifically should I look for to determine if this transmission is useable as is?
This transmission shifted hard into first and second when cold but it had 90W gear oil in it instead of ATF. The shop manual sys this can cause the hard shifting problem.
The main reason I took it apart was to reseal it because it leaked. Since it's open I'm prepared to do what ever else is necessary but I don't want to invest time and money for naught.
What do bad (bad enough to cause problems) synchros look like? What specifically should I look for to determine if this transmission is useable as is?
This transmission shifted hard into first and second when cold but it had 90W gear oil in it instead of ATF. The shop manual sys this can cause the hard shifting problem.
The main reason I took it apart was to reseal it because it leaked. Since it's open I'm prepared to do what ever else is necessary but I don't want to invest time and money for naught.
06-27-2005, 07:32 AM
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
What do you intend to use the trans for?
The reason I ask is that it's a NWC, and I wouldn't put it behind a V8 and expect it to last very long.
You need to look at the engagement teeth on the gear itself. If they are chewed up then the gears need to be replaced. The synchro rings from my experience very rarely even get damaged. The sliding sleeves and hubs are the other parts to check out. You are going to look for damaged splines, galling, an metal that looks like it's been pushed around.
NWC T5s run in gear oil, so that isn't your problem. The later WC T5s changed to ATF due to the different sycnhro design. ATF is a bad idea for a NWC T5 because it uses the old brass synchros that need the thick oil.
The reason I ask is that it's a NWC, and I wouldn't put it behind a V8 and expect it to last very long.
You need to look at the engagement teeth on the gear itself. If they are chewed up then the gears need to be replaced. The synchro rings from my experience very rarely even get damaged. The sliding sleeves and hubs are the other parts to check out. You are going to look for damaged splines, galling, an metal that looks like it's been pushed around.
NWC T5s run in gear oil, so that isn't your problem. The later WC T5s changed to ATF due to the different sycnhro design. ATF is a bad idea for a NWC T5 because it uses the old brass synchros that need the thick oil.
06-27-2005, 11:42 AM
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Car: '63 Nova Wagon these days
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: 5-speed
Thanks for the tips!
The application is behind a stock 3.1L V6 in a light car.
The factory shop manual says to use Dextron II. I've seen a lot of confusion on this on the net. What is the truth!?!
The application is behind a stock 3.1L V6 in a light car.
The factory shop manual says to use Dextron II. I've seen a lot of confusion on this on the net. What is the truth!?!
06-27-2005, 11:57 AM
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Oh, it'll be fine strength wise then.
I've always used gear oil in transmissions with brass synchros. If you look at the inside of the ring it has oil grooves designed to hold oil and allow the ring to spin freely.
But, here's the flip side: the WC T5 still has a brass synchro ring for 5th gear, and they are definately supposed to run in ATF. In fact, running gear oil in WC T5 is a surefire way to ruin it. The bearing clearances and oil feed passages are designed for ATF.
Im would say that if the service manual calls for ATF then use ATF.
I've always used gear oil in transmissions with brass synchros. If you look at the inside of the ring it has oil grooves designed to hold oil and allow the ring to spin freely.
But, here's the flip side: the WC T5 still has a brass synchro ring for 5th gear, and they are definately supposed to run in ATF. In fact, running gear oil in WC T5 is a surefire way to ruin it. The bearing clearances and oil feed passages are designed for ATF.
Im would say that if the service manual calls for ATF then use ATF.
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