Jerriko 3.4

For some reason, the slave cylinder keeps applying TOO much pressure on the throwout bearing lever applying pressure on the pressure plate. I have already burned through a dual friction clutch and am on my way through a spec 3 stage 3. Regardless what I do, I can't get the slave cylinder to back off of the lever enough to allow a clearance between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate. I have tried different ways of the bleeding the system to no avail. I also tried shorter and longer pins which also didn't work. For a little history, I converted the car from an automatic to a manual. I purchase all new components including a master cylinder and slave cylinder.
Any help is appreciated.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Shim it.

Jerriko 3.4

I tried this and it made no difference. I used washers between the slave cylinder and the bellhousing. This actually created a different problem. I decreased the amount of travel of the piston in the slave cylinder so the clutch pedal would not go all the way to the floor and the car would not start. I also tried making the pin longer. Neither of these ideas worked. Regardless of positioning of the piston, it was still applying too much pressure on the throwout bearing lever.
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Does anyone have a manual linkage setup from an 82-84 F-body?

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The pin longer sure wouldn't help you. You'd need shorter, or to shim the slave cylinder away from the bracket on the bellhousing.

If you use mechanical linkage with a hydraulic bellhousing and fork, the ratio will be hair-trigger fast. That's definitely the wrong way to go.

Adjustable master cylinder would work too.

Jerriko 3.4

Shorting the pin or shimming the slave cylinder will not work. For some reason, the hydraulic pressure keeps pushing the pin against the fork until it engages the pressure plate. If I shim the slave cylinder, the only thing that changes is the position of the piston in the slave cylinder. If you shim it too much, the piston hits the stops built into the slave cylinder and it will not move anymore creating a different problem. I would rather use the mechanical setup. I can always find another bellhousing. I am just tried of this crap seeing how it has cost me quite a bit of money.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Well, where were the master & slave purchased from? You'd have to have a pretty weird bore mismatch between the master & slave to have the severe problem you're having.

Also, I wonder how much of the preload on the clutches you're using is mechanical instead of hydraulic. By that, I mean if the throwout bearing can't go farther back because the fork can't go against the slave cylinder any further, then it's mechanically preloaded.

Changing the pivot point on the pedal would help a hydraulic problem. The mechanical problem I alluded to would be a whole 'nother ball of wax.

Mechanical is a pain in the *** and presents other problems. I've run mechanical T56, hydraulic T56, mechanical T5, and hydraulic T5. Trust me on this one.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

They are supposed to, they're self adjusting in that way.

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

Maybe your master cylinder isn't mounted straight and it's not travelling all the way out.
I just did an Auto to T5 swap on my Formula 3 weeks ago and mine is working perfect. I used all the parts from my friends car where the T5 came from.

Jerriko 3.4

I understand that by its applying TOO much pressure.

RB83L69

Sounds to me like the problem has nothing to do with the hydraulics (as usual; they rarely do), but rather with the throwout bearing.

I'd be willing to bet you're using a 6-cyl throwout bearing, which is kind of tall, instead of the correct short one; and the throwout is resting all the way back against the front of the clutch gear bearing retainer, and it's still not back far enough.

Does your throwout look like this? Or instead, where this one is circled, is it more like about ¾" tall?

Put the hydraulics back the way they belong, and find the REAL problem. They're not it.