porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

i will pay for all expenses if somone has that heart to help me install my t-56 which has cost me very close to $4,000 MORE THAN I PAID FOR THE DAMN CAR.....im so angry all manuals and write ups suck....i havent gotten one damn thing right...im down to the install allt he auto tranny crap and tranny are gone....i triend installing a clutch couldnt do it...ruined my pilot bearing brand new...i hate this so much....i NEED HELP none of the 40trans shops in sacramento will help me do the swap over...

i will even pay someone flat rate to help me...i dont care i want my baby back its been down since may

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

Post this on the southern cal board, there are thirdgen club members near you.

dankhound

Did you use a clutch alignment tool? That makes things go much easier. Dont force anything either. Once everythings all lined up like it should be it will pretty much fall into place.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

If you fly me out there I will do it I think you can handle this, just give us some time to reply to each problem you are having. how far along are you? I know you are trying to install the clutch but, are the pedals, slave ect in yet?

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Man. I know exactly how you feel. I had the same sh*t (Although not spending as much...) going on when I put my t56 in. I just kept running into all these speed bumps and couldn't get the b*itch back on the road for a good 4 months waiting for different parts here and there...it sucks. Just take things small steps at a time. What are you having trouble with? Got a camera? Take pictures of what your having problems with and someone here can help guide you through it. I'd help if I wasn't so far north. Unless you want to pay for my gas down there....I could split it with you, I have family down there

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

i thought it was easy and who ever said they can do it in 11hrs is a liar....

i was able to bolt up the flywheel to the clutch out of the vehicle even than it was hard...i ruined the pilot bearing ill show you a pic...and i havent cut the hole in for the tranny...havent removed my pedals...its more difficult than i thought...and i will pay for someones gas...to come down...or i will get the $99 ticket i have alot of rooms ...and a pull out bed...no transmission shops intown will help...

NastyL98_T/A

I've done one in 9 hrs before, not that bad if you have the right tools. Please post some direct questions about the problems you're having and we'll try to help. Don't give up yet!!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

you have a PM

cali92RS

You do know that Sacramento isnt SoCal right? Its about 400 miles north of LA.

MrDude_1

HEY! i resemble that remark!

no offence taken, but i suppose i should add a note to my sticky:
you should be able to to a basic manual trans clutch job before attempting the trans swap... lol.



im sure if you think about it, the problem is more you then it is the actual swap... the pilot bearing for example, it just gets tapped in.

just relax, clear your head, and take it one step at a time.
theres 4 bolts holding the brake pedal on. like i said in my writeup, take a 13mm ratchet, remove the seat, lay down, and work on getting thoes out...

is a hobby, its suppost to be relaxing.. take your time and do it. if you get stuck on somthing SPECIFIC, tell us. for example, is the pilot bearing currently foobared in the crank?

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

the pilot bearing is ruined...i used everyones way method...i took a socket and hammerd it in..but it just ruined the face of the bearing...it still spins freely its just ruined...the clutch is a pain in the ***...when i tried to get it bolted down to the flywheel it wouldnt go...even witht he help of a friend...but when i took off the flywheel and bolted it down on my kitchen table it went fine..

not a matter of i cant do it...i just simply dont want to any more...id rather pay someone

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

pictures yet?

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

My cousin's hot rod shop in Sacramento might be able to Daniel's Hot Rod's 916 455 9016, I'll double check the number later though. Give them a call atleast.

430T/A

Well, Seems as though turning wrenches isn't really your thing.. I completed the swap on with my brother in his car in about 6 hours... That includes setting up that howe bearing.. His car was already a 5 speed, so the only thing we didn't have to do is mess with the pedals.

Well, If you can bolt the clutch to the flywheel, but not on the car, then it is obviously your fault. your not lineing it up correctly..

Gladstoneiroc

iTrader: (1)

Sorry wrong number, (916) 455-8840 is the correct one.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

well obviously...that ****er is far from light 22lbs...ima give it another **** this weekend i just needed a break...turning wrenches is my thing i have 2 certifications right now...on my way to being a mechanic....i was just frustrated cause ive spent alot of money on this and i didnt get to make it to the get to gether in centeral coast....on the good news is...i went to pick n pull today got a whole bunch of **** i need....an already painted and matched bumper cover...lower valence drivers fender...hush panels..u bolt for master slave...bolts for the 2 clutch ***...and a 3rd generation pedal assembly... i pulled my steering column to make things easier...

hey anyone know the sizes to drill for master u blot holes... and clutch holes??

hardcoresoldier

my 91 was an auto when i started....took forever and cost a fortune to do,but now by looking you cant tell the difference

rbjones

Well, how's it going?

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

bleh...terrible i just need time off..well i finished pulling the steering column...wow so much more space...i hope i can put it back together right hahaha.... the brake booster/pedals are hanging on by one last nut......so whats left

drill master cyl hole and master u bolt holes..

install pedals and master slave..bolt up transmission...cut the trans tunnel for shifter...bolt up shifter...than all that other crap

but i have a q....i bougth the dakota digital box...sgi-5 version b

now how does it wire up to give speed??? where do the 2 output wires go to?? from the conveted i have an 89 so its cable...

MrDude_1

why the heck did you take the steering column out?! you just made more work for yourself and added more time to the job....

xanax

i did this swap at the age of 19 by myself. it isnt hard. the worst thing is getting the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder. get rid of the roller pilot bearing. go to autozone and get you a bronze roller bushing. the roller one will come apart and chew up the nose of your tranny shaft.

rbjones

Yeah, hang in there Porkyzilla--take out the steering column, seats, whatever seems right to get it done--hope you have something else to drive so you can close the garage door when you're about to start throwing tools. When you're done it'll all be worthwhile and you'll be one of those guys giving advice.

ridecamro

i just got done with the t-5 swap. i'm only 17. but yeah the worst part is that master clylder hole. if it's not striaght your f'd. like i am i'm paying someone to fix that i've gone though 2 cylders already. in 2 weeks. so yeah well. gl

iansane

iTrader: (1)

Geezus, your's must've been pretty far off to blow out two MC's in 2 weeks... Didn't the pedal assembly have an arm that shot down to bolt the MC too? (that you can drill right next to for guidance?)

430T/A

If 22lbs is too heavy, perhaps you should start eating your wheaties...

xanax

thats what im thinkin. sell the transmission and get a membership to golds gym

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

haha i weight lift thank you very much ive been training for 2 years...22LBS is heavy upside down pushing as hard as you can...while trying to get the threads to thread ratchet....so yes

iansane

iTrader: (1)

It is pretty heavy when you're upside down on your back. But then again I'm a wuss.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

your a *** haha....who has time just to surf around the internet starting flame wars :lala: too bad you cant have such a bad *** car as me and as soon as i get some more time off...i can finally bolt up the t-56
up

ridecamro

umm.. i dunno much about t56's but can't you unbolt the belhousing.?? probally not though. but it would be easyer if you could. and then slid the transmmsion in after. and the first MC was just a bad one. the second. i dunno. everyhting looks staight but i'm just having somone do it for me. i've spent to much time on it

iansane

iTrader: (1)

What the hell is your problem? I was trying to somewhat defend you. If you'd look a few posts higher up I was also trying to help you with your project and see what exactly wasn't going well. Don't get cocky with your car, I've already got the t56 in mine w/ an ls1 style hydraulic TO bearing. No forks for me.

xanax

at least you were able to put the pilot bearing in. i can get that thing in with about 3 hits from a hammer.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

suprisingly enough...thats about all it took with the new one 3-5 hits...i used a real hammer this time and put bearing grease on the outside of it.. went in real nice that time

well anyway might as well do an update....i drilled out the master hole with a hole saw 1.25 in a write up but that turned out to be too small so i just got my dremel out and made it bigger...so pedals are partly installed...i just need a full day off so i can finish this ****...they have me workin 45-50 hrs a week any time i have off im way too tired to work on my car

ridecamro

make sure... MAKE SURE the whole you made is in the right place. as i said earlyer. i will cost you alot of money. if it's not. and it's a 1.5 inch whole to be exact. but who's cares

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Too bad. Forks have mechanical leverage and historically work better than throwout bearings. If you went with the McLeod throwout bearing, I'd like to know when you bought it because their first version for the LT1 T56 didn't fit due to depth.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

As I told you on the phone, you can't drive a cable driven speedo with an electric signal. You need to ditch that box and get a cable driver or swap to an elec. speedo and then you'll be able to use the sgi-5.

xanax

or switch to a 4th gen dash with 4th gen gauges like i did then the dakota box will work. works on mine perfect

iansane

iTrader: (1)

It's not a mcleod. It was bought out of neccesity. I bought the tranny CHEAP w/o a bellhousing and needed the car on the road. Bought a Weir retrofit bellhousing and with it's setup i had to use their TO bearing. Would've liked to do it stock-style but live and learn.

rbjones

Porkyzilla--are you working on it this weekend--get the pedals in yet?

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

nawww havent worked on it at all next time i can work on it is next friday...been workin 50hrs a week...but i have the 27th through the 29th off im going to finish everything up...and some body work too...

as far as the bedals go...i have the master hole drilled and brake pedal removed...but havent mocked them inplace yet..

rbjones

Well, good--I've probably spent as much time just looking at something like this as I have actually turning wrenches and it's time well spent. Are you using a third gen pedal assembly or a 4th generation? My '82 was an automatic that I switched to stick, just a T5, but the '82's had mechanical clutch linkage and the setup I put in there was hydraulic out of a '91. I turned that master cylinder over and over trying to figure out how it should go in there while guys on this web site told me exactly where the hole in the firewall should be--I just couldn't believe the cylinder would work at that angle. Then I went back and looked carefully at the parts donor car and, sure enough, they were right--the cylinder works at a wierd angle from the factory. So I cut the hole and the thing just plopped in there. For the cars that came with automatics, I believe they all have the outline of the clutch master cylinder hole stamped in the firewall--maybe I'm wrong. If it's really hard to locate tell me and I'll make a template from the donor parts car, a factory 5 speed '91 RS, and send it to you.
Anyway, now my car is an absolute blast to drive and I'm detailing it, putting the interior back to stock so it looks like a factory job. You'll be there soon.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

well i got some time so i worked on it some more...im confused how people even used 3rd gen pedals??

the rod for the master even with the plastic busing out is too big it wont clear for the clip so i have a set of 4th gen pedals about wiring???

any help here?? is it the same transfer the stuff

whats the best way to stab the input shaft into the car...i have the front jacked up way hella high...and hte bell housing is on the car...

MrDude_1

set the front of the car low. like bearly squeeze under the oil pan low.

now jack the REAR of teh car up higher.

know how the engine leans BACK with no trans crossmember? well now its almost level.

balance the T56 on a jack with a friend, and slip it straight in.



if i recall correctly (i think its almost been a year since my swap.. feels like it.) i just swapped the 3rdgen switches onto the 4thgen pedals.
go read my sticky on modding the 4thgen pedals to work... athough i would change one thing from my sticky..

cut the gas pedal off the 4thgen pedals, and just use the brake and gas.
on 4thgen pedals, they're all one piece.. on 3rdgen ones, the gas is seperate... its easier that way.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

ok sweet...oh and about modifying the 4th gen pedals booster holes...any perticular drill bit size?? or anything?? best way to hog them out inside the vehicle or out???

MrDude_1

the nuts that hold the pedals on, also hold the brake booster on.

techniclly, the brake booster has studs on it, and the firewall is sandwiched between the booster and the pedals.

once you have the old pedals out, just undo the two nuts holding the master cyl on (really easy) and the booster lifts out.
dont drop the rod thats in it.


then just flip it upside down on the bench and you can see if it fits or not. i eyeballed it.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

hhehe yea its already out well i guess it doesnt matter than ill just dremmel the **** of it out than.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

I'm not too sure how far along you are on the install, but here's my $.02... hopefully it helps...

I tried to install my hydraulics with the booster in place thinking I would save time. In reality, I ended up having to take it off. When you put it back in, be careful if you have any vacuum lines running in that area that you don't pinch it with the firewall like I did. Took me a while to find the resulting vacuum leak.

I tried installing the tranny w/ bellhousing all together, but it was physically impossible on my car. There wasn't enough clearance between the bellhousing and the transmission tunnel to get the input shaft high enough to line up with the center of the throwout bearing. I took the bellhousing off, mounted that onto the engine, and torqued the bellhousing to engine bolts. Then slid the tranny in, and bolted the tranny to the bellhousing. The shifter obviously needs to be off the tranny at this point, and the tranny is angled down at the tailshaft so you have some space between the tranny and the car.

I had a cutout of the floor around the shifter hole for a fourthgen to help me, but you can do without one. Throw a rag or towel over the top of the tranny where the shifter goes so you don't get any debris inside it. Drill a hole straight through the center of the spot where the shifter will go. Doesn't matter if you are off to a side or not. This is just a guide, and from there, you can cut the shifter hole. As you cut, you are looking at the tranny, and you jack the tranny up really close to check your dimensions.

The bulk of the work is really just making the holes for the hydraulics and the shifter. I did the auto to 6 spd swap in my front driveway by myself about two years ago. I was 19 at the time.

By the way, 430 T/A and xanax, if you have ever spent the entire day on your back working on a car by yourself that 22 lb flywheel WILL feel heavy and awkward as hell. Constantly having your hands up in the air working on something while you are on your back makes your arms pump up. Its as if they go numb. Its kind of funny that you make a comment like that if you think about it. The people that have the biggest problem with arm pump are usually the ones with more muscle mass.

92blue

iTrader: (1)

porkyzilla, feel free to email me if you have any questions about the swap. Its been a while since I did it, but I ran into 90% of the problems you can think of. I'm not kidding. If you start getting frustrated, just take a break. I sure as hell don't make any progress when I'm frustrated, I only make more problems for myself.

Don't try to slide the tranny in by yourself. Wait til you can get someone to help you with it. Its only about 155 lbs, but its not a good idea to try on your own.

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

**** i wsa going to pay a mechanic to do it for me ****in shady ******* i am going to cal the california bar assoc if my pilot bearing or input shaft is bent he dropped it and hella **** i kick him out of my house and iddnt pay him anything... right now the tranny is so close sitting on a jackr ight now... i didnt remove the shifter but my dremmel cant get int here tin snips suck...any other methods people used??? the bellhousing is on the engine right now

gmgod

You don't have a plasma cutter laying around do you? jk, A grinder and cutoff wheel would work good, if you can't turn one of those up mabee a sawzall?